Solid progress. The stain color looks nice!
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LUCZORAMA SHIPWRECK SCAVENGER HUNT GIVEAWAY. 4 Weeks of Fun • 1 Legendary Prize ((OcCre’s Fram Ship)) • Global Crew Welcome!
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- Joined
- Mar 1, 2022
- Messages
- 604
- Points
- 308
You'd better buy the monograph from Ancre for good measure. If I was you, given the the relevant investment, I wouldn't trust blindly in kit plans.
Cheers!
Karl, from Nastätten - Rhein-Land-Pfalz - Germany, on the Nautical Research Guild forum has a superb scratch built BH cross section. He included two to access the main hatch (see photo below).
I suggest you review his log, It is incredible.
Also the Ancre monograph is another great reference. I'm on the road, so do not have it with me to look at. I did include them in my build. How else would one access the holds?
I suggest you review his log, It is incredible.
Also the Ancre monograph is another great reference. I'm on the road, so do not have it with me to look at. I did include them in my build. How else would one access the holds?
I have reached a good stopping point, so thought I would add to my build log and include some more photos. All the new wood since my last posting has one coat of Model Expo Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner, three coats of Occre Golden Oak Dye and two coats of Occre Satin Varnish. All faux nail heads are 1 mm drilled holes filled with Minwax Walnut wood fill.
I built the display stand and glued the nameplate to it. This gave me a stable platform for working on the rest of the model.
I glued three wood strips to both insides of the model, directly below the Deck 3 support beams as inside hull planking. I made two faux nail heads above each of the nine ribs on that planking. Also glued the support structure to these planks and the cargo hold planking and keelson. I made several faux nail heads in that support structure. This is the structure to which the cargo hold fence will be glued.
Not sure if I did something wrong or the notch in the samson post attached to this structure was in the wrong location, as the bottom of the samson post did not meet the support structure. So, I used some of the scrap wood from the kit to make a small pillar on which to glue the bottom of the samson post and then glue this pillar to the support structure.
I had a lot of issues with the pump well and shot locker on gluing them to the cargo hold planking and the mast support structure. The common wall and the front of the pump well hung in the air. I removed the lower three rows all around the pump well and shot locker, in order for the common wall and the front of the pump well to make contact with the mast support structure. I then removed one row from the pieces I had removed and glued the remaining two rows back in place. While not perfect, it’s a pretty good fit.
I decided on an hourglass shape for the openings I put in all four sides of the pump well and shot locker. I thought this pattern was more interesting than just a large rectangular hole. The bottom row of the opening is the entire length of that wall, other than 5 mm of wood strips at each end. Each subsequent row going upwards, decreases the opening by 5 mm on each end. I continued that until I had an opening less than 15 mm. I repeated that row and then expanded each subsequent row by 5 mm on each end.
I had to enlarge the notches in the support beams that went from side-to-side on which the support beams glued inside the sides of the pump well and shot locker go, in order for a good fit. Since I decided to add roundshot to the bottom and Deck 3 areas of the shot locker, I extended the 1 mm x 5 mm strips to go into the shot locker (there are two of them) to within 10 mm of the wall with the opening. Under that opening, I added a second ladder I made from 1 mm x 3 mm walnut strip I had left over from my Mamoli USS Constitution build, since I had no surplus cherry wood and the accessory kit only had enough cherry wood for a single ladder (the one in the pump well). I added a 2 mm x 2 mm wood strip to the front and back inside walls of the shot locker as additional support for the planking I put in the shot locker. Then I added roundshot to that placking and the cargo hold planking within the shot locker. There were approximately 250 cannonballs at the cargo hold level and 450 at the Deck 3 level as the Deck 3 level is bigger due to the mast support structure at the cargo hold level.
Even though I glued the roundshot to the cargo hold and Deck 3 planking, I added a small retaining wall to each area so that it would not appear that the cannonballs could roll right against the ladder in the shot locker.
Based on the dimensions of the shot locker and how many layers of roundshot I wanted to put in the shot locker, I purchased the above mentioned 700 3 mm black cannonballs made by a UK company called Caldercraft. Since they were a UK company, I was hoping my favorite overseas hobby shop would carry their products. That shop is Cornwall Model Boats in Cornwall, England. Luckily for me, they do carry Caldercraft products, including the 3 mm black cannonballs (roundshot). Caldercraft packages 50 cannonballs per packet. Thus 14 packets for the 700 cannonballs. I also ordered another 2 packets to replace the 80 3 mm steel balls that came in the basic kit. The cost of the roundshot (800 balls or 16 packets), including shipping from Cornwall to Massachusetts was almost $56. That might seem a bit expensive, but if you do the math, it comes out to 7 cents per cannonball. Not a bad price, considering I do not have to put two or three coats of black paint on 780 steel balls!
I could get one side of the 1 mm x 5 mm wood strips that form the Deck 3 planking support to stay right on top of the Deck 3 support beam; but not the other side. There is enough flexibility there so when I put the inside hull planking (bulwarks) against the Deck 3 support beam, it should hold those support planks in position, against the Deck 3 support beam.
Here are the photos of my work since my last posting:
I built the display stand and glued the nameplate to it. This gave me a stable platform for working on the rest of the model.
I glued three wood strips to both insides of the model, directly below the Deck 3 support beams as inside hull planking. I made two faux nail heads above each of the nine ribs on that planking. Also glued the support structure to these planks and the cargo hold planking and keelson. I made several faux nail heads in that support structure. This is the structure to which the cargo hold fence will be glued.
Not sure if I did something wrong or the notch in the samson post attached to this structure was in the wrong location, as the bottom of the samson post did not meet the support structure. So, I used some of the scrap wood from the kit to make a small pillar on which to glue the bottom of the samson post and then glue this pillar to the support structure.
I had a lot of issues with the pump well and shot locker on gluing them to the cargo hold planking and the mast support structure. The common wall and the front of the pump well hung in the air. I removed the lower three rows all around the pump well and shot locker, in order for the common wall and the front of the pump well to make contact with the mast support structure. I then removed one row from the pieces I had removed and glued the remaining two rows back in place. While not perfect, it’s a pretty good fit.
I decided on an hourglass shape for the openings I put in all four sides of the pump well and shot locker. I thought this pattern was more interesting than just a large rectangular hole. The bottom row of the opening is the entire length of that wall, other than 5 mm of wood strips at each end. Each subsequent row going upwards, decreases the opening by 5 mm on each end. I continued that until I had an opening less than 15 mm. I repeated that row and then expanded each subsequent row by 5 mm on each end.
I had to enlarge the notches in the support beams that went from side-to-side on which the support beams glued inside the sides of the pump well and shot locker go, in order for a good fit. Since I decided to add roundshot to the bottom and Deck 3 areas of the shot locker, I extended the 1 mm x 5 mm strips to go into the shot locker (there are two of them) to within 10 mm of the wall with the opening. Under that opening, I added a second ladder I made from 1 mm x 3 mm walnut strip I had left over from my Mamoli USS Constitution build, since I had no surplus cherry wood and the accessory kit only had enough cherry wood for a single ladder (the one in the pump well). I added a 2 mm x 2 mm wood strip to the front and back inside walls of the shot locker as additional support for the planking I put in the shot locker. Then I added roundshot to that placking and the cargo hold planking within the shot locker. There were approximately 250 cannonballs at the cargo hold level and 450 at the Deck 3 level as the Deck 3 level is bigger due to the mast support structure at the cargo hold level.
Even though I glued the roundshot to the cargo hold and Deck 3 planking, I added a small retaining wall to each area so that it would not appear that the cannonballs could roll right against the ladder in the shot locker.
Based on the dimensions of the shot locker and how many layers of roundshot I wanted to put in the shot locker, I purchased the above mentioned 700 3 mm black cannonballs made by a UK company called Caldercraft. Since they were a UK company, I was hoping my favorite overseas hobby shop would carry their products. That shop is Cornwall Model Boats in Cornwall, England. Luckily for me, they do carry Caldercraft products, including the 3 mm black cannonballs (roundshot). Caldercraft packages 50 cannonballs per packet. Thus 14 packets for the 700 cannonballs. I also ordered another 2 packets to replace the 80 3 mm steel balls that came in the basic kit. The cost of the roundshot (800 balls or 16 packets), including shipping from Cornwall to Massachusetts was almost $56. That might seem a bit expensive, but if you do the math, it comes out to 7 cents per cannonball. Not a bad price, considering I do not have to put two or three coats of black paint on 780 steel balls!
I could get one side of the 1 mm x 5 mm wood strips that form the Deck 3 planking support to stay right on top of the Deck 3 support beam; but not the other side. There is enough flexibility there so when I put the inside hull planking (bulwarks) against the Deck 3 support beam, it should hold those support planks in position, against the Deck 3 support beam.
Here are the photos of my work since my last posting:
Hi Henry. My suspicion is you inserted them as thumbnails. Nice model!
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2025
- Messages
- 252
- Points
- 128
I second that! "Nice model, too!"
Coming along nicely! I like the storage full of your custom ordered cannonballs!
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing.
Hmm. Just be sure to Insert: Full image.
