British Capstan circa 1777 - scale 1:16 [COMPLETED BUILD]

Getting closer to the end. I found a nice piece of walnut cutoff that was about the right size for the model base. A few minutes at the miter saw and the router table and the base was done. Next came the wipe on poly. The capstan bars are made of swiss pear. They are tapered, and have a tenon cut into the proximal ends which fit into the square mortises in the drumhead. A little poly applied to all the parts. The bars fit pretty well!!

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Very nicely done grating.

Holes in the end of the bars for a rope?

I have seen many photos of bars with rope to help keep ends spaced evenly when pushing on them, but don't know if that is proper use or logic.
 
Kurt Konrath said:
Very nicely done grating.

Holes in the end of the bars for a rope?

I have seen many photos of bars with rope to help keep ends spaced evenly when pushing on them, but don't know if that is proper use or logic.
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Thanks, Kurt!
You're right about the holes. The rope was called a "swifter". It was tightly strung through all the holes and prevented any one of the bars from falling out of their mortise in the drumhead. I'm not really sure why a swifter would be needed with this capstan. There are iron pins that pass trough the top of the drumhead and through the bars to hold them in place. No real need for a rope!
 
The capstan bars are held in place in the drumhead bu long ring bolts that pass through the upper drumhead, the capstan bar in it’s mortise and then the lower drumhead, locking the bar in place. The ringbolts are removable to remove the bars and are attach by a chain to some permanently mounted ringbolts around the center of the drumhead. Because the bars will not be removable on this model, the ringbolts are much shorter than they would be. I used .032” brass and a special jewelry-making tool that fashions ring bolts or eyebolts. They are blackened with dilute Birchwood Casey Brass Black. The chain is from Michael’s craft store. The loose end of the chain attached to the ring bolts will be glued in place once the bars have been glued in.72.jpg73.jpg74.jpg75.jpg76.jpg
 
You build a beautiful capstan and did a wonderful job with the wood.
But sometime we need to be critical, forgive me. I don't like the pins you made. They do not fit the model that you have put so much time and craftsmanship into. To my humble opinion.

In real they look more like this
iron pin.jpg
looks to me not impossible to create these and when you make them like that, it would be an upgrade to your model.
I hope this doesn't offend you, I just want to think a little with you. :)
 
Steef66 said:
You build a beautiful capstan and did a wonderful job with the wood.
But sometime we need to be critical, forgive me. I don't like the pins you made. They do not fit the model that you have put so much time and craftsmanship into. To my humble opinion.

In real they look more like this
View attachment 306245
looks to me not impossible to create these and when you make them like that, it would be an upgrade to your model.
I hope this doesn't offend you, I just want to think a little with you. :)
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The only part of the pins that will be visible on the final model will be the rings and the chains that connect them. As they are built, the have an inner diameter (ID) of about 1 scale inch, so scale is not a problem. Here is a photo of a mockup I made of a 5'6" tall Royal Navy sailor next to the capstan.


critic 2.JPG
 
Steef66 said:
Güzel bir ırgat inşa ettin ve ahşapla harika bir iş çıkardın.
Ama bazen eleştirel olmamız gerekiyor, beni bağışlayın. Yaptığın iğneleri beğenmedim. O kadar zaman ve işçilik harcadığınız modele uymuyorlar. Mütevazı görüşüme göre.

Gerçekte daha çok buna benziyorlar
View attachment 306245
Bunları oluşturmak imkansız değil gibi görünüyor ve onları böyle yaptığınızda, modelinize bir yükseltme olur.
Umarım bu seni gücendirmez, sadece seninle biraz düşünmek istiyorum. :)
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bu bilgi için teşekkürler her zaman doğruya ulaşmak zorundayız

thanks for this information we always have to reach the truth
 
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I decided to use a single treenail at each joint on the grating because I thought the two diagonally placed ones might be too busy looking. These are not actual treenail…just marks in the wood made with an awl. The effect is subtle, which is what I was going for. The hatch coaming is bloodwood. I added the capstan step bolts and made up the step brakes and installed them. I decided to add some deck planking. The wood is hornbeam. Pale like holly but with a slight gray cast. i kind of like it. The only thing left is to finish up the drumhead on the capstan and add the bars.


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Thanks, guys!

I just returned from Manitowoc WI where I attended the The 45th annual Model Ships and Boats Contest. I entered two models: The British Capstan circa 1777 and the HMS Blandford cross section. The Blandford is a group build here at SOS. I'm pleased to report that each model won a Gold Award! Thanks to Mike Rohrer (Mike41) for his excellent plans for Blandford and to Mike Shanks for his help with both models!

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DocBlake said:
Thanks, guys!

I just returned from Manitowoc WI where I attended the The 45th annual Model Ships and Boats Contest. I entered two models: The British Capstan circa 1777 and the HMS Blandford cross section. The Blandford is a group build here at SOS. I'm pleased to report that each model won a Gold Award! Thanks to Mike Rohrer (Mike41) for his excellent plans for Blandford and to Mike Shanks for his help with both models!

View attachment 308648
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CONGRATULATIONS, you deserve it Exclamation-Mark
 
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