• LUCZORAMA SHIPWRECK SCAVENGER HUNT GIVEAWAY. 4 Weeks of Fun • 1 Legendary Prize ((OcCre’s Fram Ship)) • Global Crew Welcome!
    **VIEW THREAD HERE**

Build Log: Model Shipways Norwegian Sailing Pram

Joined
Dec 30, 2024
Messages
16
Points
48

Howdy,

I've been remiss on starting this log. I've already finished the planking and will show some photos and make some comments on my experience so far. It makes much more sense to use this as a daily log, especially if encountering questions or mishaps, so as to get immediate feedback from the group. I'll try to do better. But, I have muddled along and have a decent looking hull (see below). I've found, again, that the instructions leave a bit to be desired; some things are not explained or even pointed out. I've tried to minimize my errors by reading the entire instruction set and researching other build logs, here and elsewhere, to avoid some common errors. Yet, I have still some concerns that I'll highlight here. I need to learn how the steps relate to one another, and that means sometimes WAY down the line.

1. The stern transom knee floats above the finished bottom (see photo). This surprised me because I was aware of this problem from other modelers build logs and, indeed, when I laid the bottom planks it appeared to be snugged down where I thought it should be: along the bottom of the boat. But, as additional planks were added, the knee pulled up due to the bowing of the hull. This may have occurred because the transoms were not totally secure in the build mold; they were loose. I've seen in other build logs that modelers have buttressed the bow and stern supports and the molds (not glued the stern transom mold) so the transoms were firm and did not have 'play'. Upon reflection, a boatwright would have a very stable frame upon which to build his/her hull. Maybe I should too.

knee.jpg
This inaccuracy would also mean that the angle of my stern transom may not be correct. I don't know how this might affect the build, but I will find out soon.

2. My second comment regards the laser lines on the stern and bow transoms. Are the sheer planks meant to join to the stern transom just below the laser line that will be used as a guide to trim the transom on page 18? My sheer planks join just above that line meaning I will need to trim my sheer planks in a very odd way and change the sheer line. This seems bad, very bad. Advice please. I'm hoping y'all won't say to remove all the planks with alcohol and re-plank, but I'm thinking you will. Gulp. This is where some more clarity in the instructions would have helped. Nowhere does it explain this, only that the planks need to be uniformly parallel.

stern transom.jpg

Last comment today:

3. Another modeler on a different site reported that the templates on page 4 (of the instructions) used to locate frames inside the boat, are not 'true scale' to the build (1:12) and require resizing to insure accuracy when installing the frames. Same is true, he claims, for the figures on page 5 of spars and oars. Indeed, if you download the pdf version of the instructions from Model Expo and print them, they are larger (~10%) than the templates in the hard copy manual included in the kit. Advice? Anything to worry about?

Thanks for reading this and I'll try to keep a real 'log' of my daily progress. Your advice is appreciated. BTW, here is my hull at present.

hull.jpg
 
Saturday

I have fixed the stern transom to my liking.

I unglued the planks from the rear transom using isopropyl alcohol so that the transom could pivot.
IMG_0101.jpg

I tilted the transom inward until the knee joined to the bottom of the boat as it should; not floating. I glued the knee down. I then re-glued the planks to the re-positioned transom and braced with rubber bands.
IMG_0100.jpg
IMG_0102.jpg

I trimmed the excess plank material, plugged gaps with wood putty and sanded.
IMG_0103.jpg

This readjustment now positions the tops of the sheer planks just at the inscribed line on the transom. I am happy with this.

I've installed the dagger board case, the bottom frames, skeg and will now work on the inwales.

Cheers.
 
Tuesday:

Installed the inwales after shaping. Added the thwart frames. I found this a bit confusing due to a lack of details in the instructions. For instance, how high should they be positioned on the planks? I looked ahead in the instructions and put my mind to it and came up with something that might work. I thought the important thing might be, at least, that the frames would be level to one another so that the thwarts were solid when installed. We'll see. BTW, same question for the stern sheets and frame E. Are all thwarts meant to be at the same height as the stern sheets? Time will tell.

Another mystery revealed itself as I was installing the thwart frames. When using the thwarts to 'visualize' their installation, I found that they are very much too wide for the boat. A note on Page 15 indicates that the widest dimension of the boat should be 3 3/4 inch. My boat is 3 1/2 inches at its widest point, the same dimension as the midship thwart. I can't understand how the boat could be that far 'off' if all pieces have gone together well and fit the build mold. Will need to trim the thwarts. Again, I think the instructions might simply be 'guidelines'. I do wonder, however, how far from 'authentic' my miniature build will be (relative dimensions) as a result.

I made a comment in an earlier log entry that another builder had found that the templates on Page 4 in the instruction manual are 'too small' by ~10% to true scale. But that the templates when downloaded from the Model Expo website were accurate. He was right. I'm using my printouts from the website for a spars, oars etc.

I'm attaching a photo of the boat at this stage. Will be traveling for two weeks. Modeling will wait.inwales and frames.jpg
 
Your boat is looking good. I also had trouble with the width of the boat. I believe more than a few of us had to sand down the thwarts! I believe there was a paper tape measure printed in the instruction that I copied and cut out to place the height of the thwarts.

Rob
 
Last edited:
Rob

I saw that small tape with the number 1 and the word Case but could not figure out what it was (no explanation in booklet) and my feeble brain couldn't devise how to use it. I guess I'm winging it. Thanks for pointing that out, though.
 
Hello. I'm finally back and have picked up working on the pram again. I left it a bit unsettled about the forward transom; it was angled so much that the forward transom knee was elevated off the bottom (previous mention). I decided to rectify it and disassemble the bow (90% alcohol), reseated the knee to the bottom, reglued and clamped it together. After trimming the excess material from the planks, I'm quite happy with the outcome (photos attached). This redo also gave the arc of the gunwale a more appropriate appearance.


Today I sanded the thwarts to fit and prepared to drill the holes for the stays and started on the oarlocks. All this should have been easy but I took a half an hour to measure my twist drill bits; I didn't know which was which size; they'd all jumbled up in the drawer. All straightened out now and labeled for future reference. Whew.

Tomorrow will add the oarlocks, the rub rails and the gudgeon before settling in to sand the dagger board and tiller.

transom 2.jpg

transom 1.jpg
 
That's a large repair job. The same thing happened when I built my pram, but I just let it be. When you sand the daggerboard to fit the case remember to allow space for any paint you are going to put on it or you may have to sand again after painting. (Don/t ask me how I know this. :rolleyes:)
 
Back
Top