Build Log: Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack

[Larry D]

Hello. I've begun building the Lobster Smack (Model Shipways) after completing the Lowell Dory and the Norwegian Sailing Pram. I learned a lot in those builds and am trying to apply that knowledge to the current build. I'm starting this Log a bit late and have already built the spine, the bulkheads and the cockpit decking. I am now ready to dry fit the deck to the frame but I've discovered a problem that I tried to avoid. The spine has a curvature and a twist in the bow (from about bulkhead 3 towards the bow) that will make all further work out of true. Fairing the model will likely be impossible. The curve/twist is significant. It makes the centerline 'off' by 2/16-3/16 inch (toward the starboard). (Please see the photos). I made all my bulkheads square to the spine. I don't know at what step(s) the curvature set in. I made the spine AT ALL STEPS on a flat surface and used a single weight along the entire length of the spine to keep it as flat as possible. All drying steps were 12-24 hours. It seemed to work which makes this problem all the more frustrating.

How can I fix this problem? Can I soak the fore section of the boat in water and try to re-align during drying? Must I disassemble all glued components (bulkheads, spine, cockpit deck, transom) and begin again? Purchase a new kit? The groups advice is welcome.

Thanks. Larry

 

[JacquesCousteau]

Given that the central spine is made of thin layers laminated together, it's pretty easy to get a bit of a bend on accident. You might try adding some support pieces from scrap between bulkheads. I added a few in my build of this model, as can be seen in the photo, in order to strengthen the hull, but if you get the lengths right, you may be able to use it to slightly push out the side the spine is bent toward and correct the problem. If not, dousing the joints in rubbing alcohol to remove the bulkheads and cabin floor, and the dampening the side it's bent toward and leaving it to dry on a flat surface under a heavy weight, is probably your best bet. Good luck, looking forward to seeing how you work it out!

 

[Swabbie]

@Larry D. Hi.
I am only a newbie, so a lot of my ideas on this subject fall short of being ideal.
While reading your post, it occurred to me that we builders use heat to bend planking into shape.
I would work out a jig that would hold the wood where I want it after bending it into shape by applying some heat with a hot air blower. Then glue it into place... as I said, it's just a thought.

 

[Larry D]

Hello JacquesCousteau and Swabbie.

Thank you both for your suggestions. I am traveling now but will study the situation again upon my return and set a course for repair. Yes. It’s my first multi-layer spine and did not anticipate what might occur.

JacquesCousteau, I remember your Lobster Smack build log from Model Ship World and recall you had a misalignment problem but wasn’t aware of how you fixed it. I hope I have as good an outcome as you had using buttresses alone. Swabbie, I like your idea as well. It’s easy to try both. I’m familiar with alcohol based disassembly and will feel comfortable doing that if needed.

I just returned from a day sail on the Bluenose II in Lunenburg Nova Scotia. I took many photos. It’s my next build after the Smack. It’s a big jump. I bought the Billings kit. It has limited instructions for a beginner like me. Y’all know of any build logs to help me through?

Cheers

Larry

 

[Larry D]

Hello

I'm back after a 4 month hiatus. You may recall I had a twisted spine on the Lobster Smack. I felt it was irreparable so Model Expo sent me replacement parts to build the spine and frames again. I thank them. I was gun shy for a bit but finally restarted the project, and its been going much better. The spine is straight. The ribs are in and I have the transom and deck installed. I am beginning to fair the frames prior to planking.

I've learned a lot on the second time around, and thank many of you for suggestions, experiences and overall encouragement. I'm attaching some photos to show my (slow) progress. The work presented here represents about 5 days of part time work. I imagine the planking will take considerable time; patience is needed.

Two questions: What masking tape is recommended for the painting the two-tone hull? I've used Tamiya flexing tape on plastic models. Does it work well on wood? Something better?

What thin CA is recommended (with a slender applicator tip)?

What Natural Filler is recommended? I purchased Gorilla and am having a very difficult time with it. It's dries quickly and blocks the applicator. Also, it's very gritty. Is this expected? Maybe it's an old tube?

Thanks for all advice. Larry