Build of Bosphorus Cutter 1/50 scale

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Hello all, I am building my first model ship and have many questions.
Today's question is how to hold and cut 2 planks at same time?
My planks are .120" wide and not sure what wood they are but x-atco blade not cutting it
Properly....mostly issue holding planks securely. I purchased nice small wood plane and if
I can figure how to hold planks I think I can make 2 the same. Thanks for helping....
 
Well I found a way to cut planks in pairs......
Next question.....I found and printed a tutorial on planking and there's a fan template included.... instructions say " next you have to decide this length by 10 with tick marks and easiest way is with attached fan template..print it out. IT IS NOT TO SCALE."
Will I need one that is to scale?
Someone please enlighten me on fan templates...
 
Maybe it would be good to show also a little bit of your work and show a photo related to your question.
This would help us to help and assist you.....
 
Would a photo of a fan template clarify my question, no.
I read about SPILING OFF to make / shape planks but will
It apply to model with planks included?
It seemed like sheet material would be required, no?
My planks are only 3mm wide and to make a proper plank with curve
I think I'll need wider stock to start with....
If so, where do I get some?
 
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A 3mm plank should be the easiest one to curve into shape - the wider planks get, the more difficult it becomes. To accomplish this, use an electric plank bender - the use of which I have extensively discussed on my build of the VOC Spiegelretourschip Batavia from Kolderstok. If you are bent on getting different width planks, contact Dave Stevens at the Lumberyard (he is one of our advertisers and a member of SOS).
 
Some photos...waiting for more planks.
 

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I saved these pics of how to ask .....my model has no rabbit.....what's best way to get correct ends of planks at front?
 

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Just had another question pop in my head....
Model is plank on frame....BUT....what's to stop me from putting second set of planks (thinner of course) over first like other kits do?
 
I thought planks should be trimmed on side facing keel....
Hope you can read photo..
 

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Ok. I am not sure what the above picture had to do with the keel. The plank that goes directly against the keel (the garboard strake) should never be trimmed on the side that will butt-up against the keel. There you want as straight a line as possible to maximise alignment.
 
All planks are trimmed, bevelled or shaped on the upper edge of the plank. That is to say the edge of the plank being installed that is going to touch the previously installed plank is the edge to be trimmed.
I hope I explained this clearly
 
I not sure I got it...if starting at deck line and working toward keel I should trim off top of planks to fit as I go down...????.seems backwards to me...I was measuring tick mark from straight top of plank and cutting bottom off.....most pictures of finished planks look like a slight smile with curve at bottom.......if I trim top of plank pictures would look like a frown ☹️.....then I would really have to bend plank up to meet plank above? What am I missing?
 
I just assumed flat was top edge....my kit starts with full plank at deck level...so I cut plank like picture and glued it under ...working down.
Must say..it looks not too bad for being done arse backwards.
Then same from keel up to meet in middle...I hope.
The fine print on photo of instructions says trim top edge of planks also..that's why I added picture....really,what's the difference? Both ways plank must be proper thickness at required spot.?
 

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I not sure I got it...if starting at deck line and working toward keel I should trim off top of planks to fit as I go down...????.seems backwards to me...I was measuring tick mark from straight top of plank and cutting bottom off.....most pictures of finished planks look like a slight smile with curve at bottom.......if I trim top of plank pictures would look like a frown ☹️.....then I would really have to bend plank up to meet plank above? What am I missing?
He is referring to the bevel to be added to one side of each board, so the boards fit together without a gap when going around the curve of the bulkhead. Also note the bevel would be on the inside edge of the hull board. In addition he is saying the garboard plank that is against the keel at the bottom of the hull, should be cut straight on the edge that touches the keel. Hope that makes sense.
 
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I'm now more confused......☹️
But can we at least agree that the trimmed edge is glued to the prior plank leaving untrimmed factory edge exposed as Don Robertson said ( I think)
So I was attaching factory edge to trimmed edge of prior plank leaving trimmed edge for next plank...50 - 50 ??????
 
OK Rcflyer, I understand your confusion. So let us first get the terminology straight - between plank shaping or narrowing and bevelling. Bevelling refers to putting an angle on the edge of the plank with the idea of it not protruding (sticking outwards) from the bottom edge of the previous plank. I don't like bevelling planks as it thins the edge and might sometimes not give you enough material to sand during final sanding. I prefer a slight "clinker" effect where it looks as if the one plank is almost the overlapping the other.

Shaping the plank means narrowing the plank. Viewing the ship from the side, I shape the bottom edge of each plank as indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture. The thick blue arrow is the garboard strake which is kept straight on the side where it aligns directly against the keel.

Planking.png

Build 285.jpg

Your "Smile" that you referring to is created by the curvature of the planks at the bow and by the position of your gunwales.

Build 292.jpg

When sanded, this gave me a perfect alignment - and this is on a hull which has single-layer planking.

Build 366.jpg

I hope this helps.
 
Yes Heinrich...I trim bottom of plank going down....seemed natural but my first build so was confused by instructions to trim tops of planks...could be bad translation of whatever language is above.
 

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