CA Cement - love/hate relationship[

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Dave @W

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Location
Saratoga Springs, NY
OK, this is mostly me spouting off!! If this is posted in the the wrong place - oh well, an admin caan move it - or dump it.
In my case it's a I HATE CA cements. Well, not really hate it but have learned on my Amati 'Fifie' second planking that Titebond is better - at least for me. The Amati IB says to do the second planking using CA and I, of course, always follow direction - until I don't. I've glued my fingers together twice (commercial grade acetone wont touch it), pulled planking off at least a half dozen times to recement. And yes, before you give me a zinger, the first layer is clean, has a good 80 - 120 grit sanded tooth glue finish and used clamps. I've used BSP or Starbond Medium CA to somewhat slow cure time. Back to using clamps where possible and the supplied tiny nails. The holes will be easily filled and the hull will be painted.

OK, got that off my mind. Sorry if it sounded like a whine - it was!!!!:D:rolleyes:
 
I use CA extensively. My ships are built almost entirely with CA. It does take some learning, adopting new ways to use CA instead of right out of the squeeze bottle. One of the things I LIKE about CA is the lessened need for clamping. I prefer Zap-a-Gap CA and it comes in various viscosities. I understand your frustration too. And acetone is your finger's friend. I am a woodworker of over 60 years and have pretty extensive experiences with many many different adhesives. All requirea little learning and tools. Do what you're most comfortable with. What model are you currently building? Have you considered a Build Log! Let us follow your progress! (this ship I am currently building is 95% CA adhered. Also includes sone PVA and epoxies)
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it takes a little practice to get used to. :)
you will learn to not get it on hands and also not use so much that it seeps through the wood venier you are applying. Also, you have to be aware (especially with the thin CA) it will soak into the wood and prevent stains from working properly.
 
It depends what to glue and where. If I have to glue wood into wood, I hate CA too, because it does not attach parts together as good as old PVA does. I have tried different viscosity glues, different brands, etc. but always same results. Also it glues your fingers together, and everything into your fingers.

But, if you have to glue some other materials into others like aluminium foil into glassfibre, the only thing that works here is CA. Even if it glues your fingers together etc. In this case it is easy (but not very confortable) to use throwaway gloves. Like my newest project, African Queen, where 0,3 mm alu plates are glued into glassfibre hull, or styrene parts into aluminium:

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Thanks for the "pep talks" about the use of CA but really don't feel that CA is the way FOR ME to go. Yes, I will use it on occasion for some places but not often. As to using throw away glves, well I tried that too and sanding blue nitrile off wasn't part of my plans.

Moxis - I've searced for some of those long nose clamps - looks like I neeed to spend some more time on Amazon or my local hardware store as I suspect that your Finland sources may not be the same as mine
 
Clamps are always a never-ending search. :)
I remember an ad a while back for a "lotion" that you could put on your hands before working and it would prevent CA from sticking to your hands. I wonder if that is still available.
 
Dave @W said:
Thanks for the "pep talks" about the use of CA but really don't feel that CA is the way FOR ME to go. Yes, I will use it on occasion for some places but not often. As to using throw away glves, well I tried that too and sanding blue nitrile off wasn't part of my plans.

Moxis - I've searced for some of those long nose clamps - looks like I neeed to spend some more time on Amazon or my local hardware store as I suspect that your Finland sources may not be the same as mine
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Here is a link to Amazon for the clamps:
Pointed spring clamps
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Dave @W said:
Thanks for the "pep talks" about the use of CA but really don't feel that CA is the way FOR ME to go. Yes, I will use it on occasion for some places but not often. As to using throw away glves, well I tried that too and sanding blue nitrile off wasn't part of my plans.

Moxis - I've searced for some of those long nose clamps - looks like I neeed to spend some more time on Amazon or my local hardware store as I suspect that your Finland sources may not be the same as mine
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Dave, those clamps are made in Germany (I think) by Wolfcraft. You might find their representative in your country or buy from Internet : https://www.wolfcraft.com/products/...pring-Clamps/60-Pointed-Spring-Clamp/p/P_3431
 
Good luck with your glue situation! You'll find what works well for you--don't give up!

I have only been building models since 2022 (besides as a kid), and I mostly use is "JB Weld" placed in a syringe. The glue dries clear and can be painted over, unlike the Titebond wood glue or CA that stains. Since Sept 2024, I have kept 2 benches going--one for wooden models and one for plastic military models of which I am building for a local military museum and having a blast. I have 2 professional plastic modelers I go to for questions and love learning the hints/tricks, etc.

Personally, I prefer working with wooden ship models, having grown up 32 ft from the high water mark, and I find wood easier to work and more forgiving.

Plastic has been an entirely new learning curve. I rarely use CA gel. "JB Weld" has worked on anything for whichI have needed glue. I also really like Tamiya Thin cement with its capillary action for seams on plastic, and also use that on the Building Block models, of which I have done multiple military plane kits from off-brand blocks.

I do projects to avoid RX for RA (blessed); then donate the finished projects to bless another.

Here's an "aside" for you: About 3 months after I started building for the military museum, I was invited to one of their monthly breakfasts, to meet many of the guys involved with the museum. They wanted to meet who was building all the models. My name is "Jackie," but nothing was ever mentioned about gender. It was so-o-o-o much fun to meet these guys that thought they were going to meet a male model builder!! Most said they never knew of female model builders--great BIG smile here!~

Be blessedn
JJ
 
Jackie - it sounds like you are having way too much fun. Can I borrow some along with a bit of your extra time?

I have never used any J-B Weld except their usual black stuff to repair things though have seen the others advertised. Might have to give it a try. Thanks
 
Jackie,

JB Weld’s original product was a powdered metal reinforced epoxy. I still keep tubes of it on my workbench. Mixed by eyeball it cures 100 percent of the time. I like the slow cure version that seems to be getting harder to find.

Lately they seem to be adding other types of glue to their brand. Is the JB Weld that you are using still an epoxy or some other type of glue?

I assume that RA is short for Rheumatoid Arthritis. I have neuropathy in both hands. I have to pick up every tool twice; once from the workbench and once after dropping it on the floor! It seems though as the neuropathy progresses, my brain figures out how to “rewire” itself to combat the problem. Hopefully your model building helps you to combat the RA too. Anyhow, like the old Chicken Soup expression “It can’t hurt.”

Roger
 
I wonder if there is any difference about the strengthness between JB Weld and Loctite Power Epoxy Extra Time ( https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Epoxy-0-85-Fluid-Syringe-1405603/dp/B001MUM62C ) ?

I understand that the JB Weld is curing in about 5 minutes while the Loctite Extra Time takes about 60 min to cure. Loctite has epoxy that cures in 5 min too, but I like better the 60 minute stuff which gives you more time to locate the parts correctly.

But, if the strengthness of JB Weld cured seam is better than that of Loctite's, maybe I must think again and start to use that glue too.
 
Moxis said:
I wonder if there is any difference about the strengthness between JB Weld and Loctite Power Epoxy Extra Time ( https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Epoxy-0-85-Fluid-Syringe-1405603/dp/B001MUM62C ) ?

I understand that the JB Weld is curing in about 5 minutes while the Loctite Extra Time takes about 60 min to cure. Loctite has epoxy that cures in 5 min too, but I like better the 60 minute stuff which gives you more time to locate the parts correctly.

But, if the strengthness of JB Weld cured seam is better than that of Loctite's, maybe I must think again and start to use that glue too.
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There are MANY JB Weld expoxies and products. Some are quick cure, some are not. Personally, I like using JB Weld Kwik two-part epoxy. It isn't runny and hold very very well.
 
Dave @W said:
Jackie - it sounds like you are having way too much fun. Can I borrow some along with a bit of your extra time?

I have never used any J-B Weld except their usual black stuff to repair things though have seen the others advertised. Might have to give it a try. Thanks
Click to expand...
I am having a blast at 71-years-old!

I had a "senior moment" when I mentioned "JB Weld," and meant "Weld Bond"--it comes in a grey bottle. I can't get near the 2-part epoxies.

Forgive me for the "boo-boo."
Roger Pellett said:
Jackie,

JB Weld’s original product was a powdered metal reinforced epoxy. I still keep tubes of it on my workbench. Mixed by eyeball it cures 100 percent of the time. I like the slow cure version that seems to be getting harder to find.

Lately they seem to be adding other types of glue to their brand. Is the JB Weld that you are using still an epoxy or some other type of glue?

I assume that RA is short for Rheumatoid Arthritis. I have neuropathy in both hands. I have to pick up every tool twice; once from the workbench and once after dropping it on the floor! It seems though as the neuropathy progresses, my brain figures out how to “rewire” itself to combat the problem. Hopefully your model building helps you to combat the RA too. Anyhow, like the old Chicken Soup expression “It can’t hurt.”

Roger
Click to expand...
I goofed with a "senior moment," and meant "Weld Bond" in the grey bottle. I can't get near epoxy. . . .

Yes, RA is Rheumatoid Arthritis. I sometimes can't really feel small parts, so I have to trust my eyes to see that it is gripped. Spend a lot of time with a bright--very bright--search light, looking for small parts that got away. . . About the only exercise I get--i.e. getting down on the floor to search; then hope I can get up--LOL!
 
The Ship Model Classification Guidelines for The Mystic Seaport Museum Store is intended to define what constitutes a museum quality ship model. It specifies that glue may be water-resistant white glue, Ambroid (or Duco), epoxy, or powdered resins. Instant glue is to be used "on small areas only." I note that the document was published in 1980 and glue technology has changed since then. Fair winds!
 
AndyA said:
The Ship Model Classification Guidelines for The Mystic Seaport Museum Store is intended to define what constitutes a museum quality ship model. It specifies that glue may be water-resistant white glue, Ambroid (or Duco), epoxy, or powdered resins. Instant glue is to be used "on small areas only." I note that the document was published in 1980 and glue technology has changed since then. Fair winds!
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