CA Cement - love/hate relationship[

Jackie
Sounds familiar! Tweezers and needle nosed pliers are the go to tools.

Mystic Seaport Ship Model Classifications: Those are the glues that I use with the exception that I use Titebond II instead of White Glue

Roger
 
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The museum recommendation for models is done with an eye to future conservation. Generally museum conservators (given a choice) prefer adhesives and paints that are either inert (like cured epoxy) and contain no noxious products and/or are readily reversible without major surgery like excessive heat or aggressive solvents. White glue for example is reversible- it can be done and undone with moderate heat or alcohol. They are thinking about 50 years time, when models might need a major service which extends as far as jacking up the figurehead and sliding a new model onto it.
 
From the US Navy Naval Sea Systems Command website under "Specifications for Building Exhibition Model Ships:"

Durability of Materials

As part of the permanent collection of the Department of the Navy, it is reasonable to expect a new ship model to last one hundred years before deterioration is visible. Therefore, resistance of models and parts to the actions of temperature, humidity, and light is essential. Extreme care must be given to select materials which are known to be compatible and will not, in time, interact chemically.

Although only a few materials are prohibited in "Specifications for Construction of Exhibition Models of U.S Naval Vessels," some recently developed model-building materials and techniques should be avoided until sufficient time has passed to properly evaluate their longevity. Though some of these recently introduced materials may ultimately test superior to more traditional techniques, substances of unproven longevity should not be employed in models built under these specifications. It is advised that fiberglass resins, styrene, expanding foams, casting resins, and cyanoacrylate glues be avoided when other materials can possibly be used.
 
From the US Navy Naval Sea Systems Command website under "Specifications for Building Exhibition Model Ships:"

Durability of Materials

As part of the permanent collection of the Department of the Navy, it is reasonable to expect a new ship model to last one hundred years before deterioration is visible. Therefore, resistance of models and parts to the actions of temperature, humidity, and light is essential. Extreme care must be given to select materials which are known to be compatible and will not, in time, interact chemically.

Although only a few materials are prohibited in "Specifications for Construction of Exhibition Models of U.S Naval Vessels," some recently developed model-building materials and techniques should be avoided until sufficient time has passed to properly evaluate their longevity. Though some of these recently introduced materials may ultimately test superior to more traditional techniques, substances of unproven longevity should not be employed in models built under these specifications. It is advised that fiberglass resins, styrene, expanding foams, casting resins, and cyanoacrylate glues be avoided when other materials can possibly be used.
I'm 78 going on 79. My model will be displayed at home. Longevity isn't my ongoing concern......
 
Folks, I started this therad to vent my frustration with using CA glue - see Post 1. I did not anticipate that it would take a sideways and off subject turn with rules on using a particular type of cement or other fastening materials based on some archaic guidelines posted somewhere to be used in so called museum quality model ships. This is a hobby for most of us and I suspect that we will use whatever fits our needs.
 
Folks, I started this therad to vent my frustration with using CA glue - see Post 1. I did not anticipate that it would take a sideways and off subject turn with rules on using a particular type of cement or other fastening materials based on some archaic guidelines posted somewhere to be used in so called museum quality model ships. This is a hobby for most of us and I suspect that we will use whatever fits our needs.
Sorry Dave, This happens sometimes. :)
Some people in this group do build to display models at museums. Most do not. :)
 
I do use CA glue a lot. I also have this pva glue that I purchased here in Canada which is quick set in 10 minutes:
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Folks, I started this therad to vent my frustration with using CA glue - see Post 1. I did not anticipate that it would take a sideways and off subject turn with rules on using a particular type of cement or other fastening materials based on some archaic guidelines posted somewhere to be used in so called museum quality model ships. This is a hobby for most of us and I suspect that we will use whatever fits our needs.
Brother Dave:
I feel badly that you think I highjacked your thread. I just thought it was interesting how CA is thought of among museum curators. I often use CA (along with other glues) in my modest modeling and in around-the-house repairs and note that your complaints about the stuff are well-founded. Have fun and fair winds!
 
Brother Dave:
I feel badly that you think I highjacked your thread. I just thought it was interesting how CA is thought of among museum curators. I often use CA (along with other glues) in my modest modeling and in around-the-house repairs and note that your complaints about the stuff are well-founded. Have fun and fair winds!
Andy - see PM
 
i'm not familiar with weld bond. what kind of glue is it? is it related to tite bond or elmers? the reviews of it seem mixed
 
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