CA for rigging

Don Case

Don Case

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What thickness CA do you use for rigging. On my bench I have Bob Smith "super thin" and "gap filling medium". The super thin wicks up the rope too much and the gap filling beads up on the rope. Is there a Goldilocks thickness for rigging? Not too thick, not too thin? If you have found the ideal CA can you give me the thickness and brand name as I imagine there are differences among the manufacturers.
Thanks

PS and please, I don't need any lectures about using PVA rather than CA. I know it's better but I just don't have the patience. I'm also 76 so I may not have the time :) 5 minutes for every seizing starts to add up.
 
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I've been using the BSI "gap-filling medium" one with no problems. I use a toothpick to rub the blobs/beads into the knots and seizings. If there are shiny blobs that I missed a dab of Matt varnish makes that disappear.

The extra thick has been really nice for gluing bolt ropes around sails. It's so thick that it doesn't run into the sails and stain them.
 
Don Case said:
What thickness CA do you use for rigging. On my bench I have Bob Smith "super thin" and "gap filling medium". The super thin wicks up the rope too much and the gap filling beads up on the rope. Is there a Goldilocks thickness for rigging? Not too thick, not too thin? If you have found the ideal CA can you give me the thickness and brand name as I imagine there are differences among the manufacturers.
Thanks

PS and please, I don't need any lectures about using PVA rather than CA. I know it's better but I just don't have the patience. I'm also 76 so I may not have the time :) 5 minutes for every seizing starts to add up.
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Medium CA works well. It won't wick in too far, staying in the knot if applied sparingly. It's also the best thickness for most other tasks, like planking and assembly.
 
BenD said:
I've been using the BSI "gap-filling medium" one with no problems. I use a toothpick to rub the blobs/beads into the knots and seizings. If there are shiny blobs that I missed a dab of Matt varnish makes that disappear.

The extra thick has been really nice for gluing bolt ropes around sails. It's so thick that it doesn't run into the sails and stain them.
Click to expand...
I usually squeeze it in with my fingers and that works but I was thinking maybe that wasn't the best idea.
 
Something you may want to consider is UV setting glue like bondic. It has the consistency of medium CA but it will not stick to anything until it is set with a UV flashlight. I find it great for delicate work like small pieces of PE. It will not set until you want it to set.
 
I'm applying it with a small cut needle too. The thin stuff wicks about 1/4" each way from where I apply it. If I use half of each it's not too bad so that's why I was looking for something different. The UV glue sounds like it has it's place but it doesn't solve the too thick or too thin problem.
 
Bryian said:
I touch up the CA glue on my knots with Testors dull cote. It takes away the shiny glue look.
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As do I, and just when you think you have done them all you look from a different angle and .....
 
When I apply that tiny drop of glue I dip my finger around the knot, fast! to get the shine of. Works always. But when you do it be quick, because.....
 
Don Case said:
What thickness CA do you use for rigging. On my bench I have Bob Smith "super thin" and "gap filling medium". The super thin wicks up the rope too much and the gap filling beads up on the rope. Is there a Goldilocks thickness for rigging? Not too thick, not too thin? If you have found the ideal CA can you give me the thickness and brand name as I imagine there are differences among the manufacturers.
Thanks

PS and please, I don't need any lectures about using PVA rather than CA. I know it's better but I just don't have the patience. I'm also 76 so I may not have the time :) 5 minutes for every seizing starts to add up.
Click to expand...
FWIW, I purchased four thicknesses of CA from Amazon, along with a bag of "fine tip glue tips" that you slide onto the application end of the bottles. Those give me a huge amount of control over the glue application... in both accuracy of where I'm placing it, as well as quantity being applied. With the variety of CA thicknesses, I have sourced small bottles in a full range from thick, to medium thick, medium, and thin. I find the "medium" is my go to for the majority of my work, with the "thick" reserved from things like mounting metal parts to the deck, etc. Here are some links (URLs) from Amazon Canada's site for you:
Micro glue tips
CA - thick
CA - medium thick
CA - medium
CA - thin
 
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I usually run the thread through a small piece of bees wax, then when I do the rigging, the CA doesn’t soak into the threads. Have had no problems with the CA becoming brittle and breaking years later.
Phil
 
I use CA gel for most of my rigging applications…actually I use CA gel for most of my CA gluing needs…especially hull planking. Anyway, at first the gel does bead up but I rub the drop with the tip of my bottle and in a few seconds it soaks into the knot gluing it up nicely. Sometimes I revert to CA thick…soaks in bit faster but still doesn’t wick up the line. Also, use the smallest drop of CA you can to get the job done...especially if you are using CA thin. I have not found any significant differences between CA brands…my last batch of CA I got from Amazon…got the cheapest…
 
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The super glue and super glue gel from Harbor Freight come in tiny tubes which are easy to discard when empty or dried up. They are very inexpensive and the tiny tubes provide a kind of fresh supply whenever needed.
(https://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-high-strength-super-glue-68345.html?_br_psugg_q=glue)
This super glue isn't perfect for all uses, but it's good enough for rigging. I need more flexibility in the timing of hull planking or deck planking, fine tuning placement with wood glue before using clamps or other devices to hold things in place while the glue dries.
 
socalveteran said:
I need more flexibility in the timing of hull planking or deck planking, fine tuning placement with wood glue before using clamps or other devices to hold things in place while the glue dries.
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Look for "Gorilla glue"
 
I run the thread between thumb and bees wax bar to coat the full length of the thread piece then use thin CA on end knots with fine tip applicators that push on to tip[ of bottle ( they are basically pieces of plastic tube that have been heated and stretched to a thin end. After finishing you can use heat gun over rigging to melt wax into all knots in rigging so the don't come loose. ( ratlines)
I just got some bob smith CA again ( was hard to get in canada for awhile - Gov't regulation on child safe packaging stopped import - IDIOTS!!
I must say the bob smith is hands down better than generic brands
 
I have used "Fray Check" for years. It dries clear and holds just like glue. I also use it when securing ratline lines so they don't move when spaced and set. When used on sails it dries without leaving any marks at all. It works great to stiffen up ends of lines going through blocks , just apply and run line through you fingers and it is dry and ready to use, No long drying period in waiting.
 
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