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Carrie Price Half Hull from Grimwood Plans by Greg Davis [COMPLETED BUILD]

Joined
Dec 7, 2022
Messages
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After being drawn into a couple of recent discussions of this form - 'Why Do So Many Members Never Post' and 'The Cost of Kit vs Scratch Build' - I've gotten up the nerve to put a build log here on Ships of Scale.

The project that I have chosen - a half-hull model of the skip-jack Carrie Price - is one I've looked at for nearly two decades. When I first started building model ships and an associated reference library, on of the first books I purchased was American Ship Models and How to Build Them by V.R. Grimwood - an extremely affordable Dover reprint which is available new for less than $15 dollars. The forward of the book was written by Howard Chapelle who gave a strong endorsement to the contents. Grimwood provides plans and some history for building a dozen model ships in order of increasing difficulty. The first model described is the half-hull model of Carrie Price that has no deck detail, it is followed by one with deck structures, and then by a full-hull version of the skip-jack before moving to other ships. The eleventh project - Oliver Cromwell - noted by Harold Hahn as he delved deeper into the that ship's history and then developed his beautiful model.

Here I will be making my attempt to build my first half-hull model based and my first model constructed using lifts. Instructions for the model call for 3 lifts. For the first (lowest) and third lifts I have selected a piece of Clear Alder and the second lift will be Mahogany. The deck will also be made from Mahogany. I procured the needed wood from a local lumber yard for $21.51. I don't think that I will need to purchase any additional materials for the model proper; however, I may need to purchase a board to mount the final product on if I don't see a nice match in my stash. So the material price is pretty reasonable and the needed consumables - glue, finishing products, etc. can all be found laying around from other projects.

Grimwood is an interesting book to me for a number of reasons, on of which is the time period in which it was first published - 1942. Hand tools clearly dominated in his exposition - all of which I am familiar with by name, but some (like the spokeshave) I've never used. I plan to follow his instructions as close as I can hoping that I can pick up / refine my skills with basic tools that I probably already should have proficiency with.

So the wood has been purchased. Grimwood suggests that one should purchase the wood at a location that will mill the wood to the needed dimensions. I will be taking care of that work myself. The three lifts are made from pieces of wood 3" wide and 16" long; the deck piece just a little smaller. I have the four pieces cut to those dimensions, but they need to be refined to the correct thicknesses. The first lift is to be 19/32", the second 3/8", and the third ~7/8" according to the book. The deck piece is to be 3/16" thick.

So next step is to get out the thickness sander and / or thickness planer and start getting the lifts to their proper dimensions!

IGrimwood Book with Wood for Carrie Price.jpgGrimwood Book Carrie Price Plan.jpg
 
I've redrawn WL1 and WL2 to the correct scale; i.e., 3/8" to a foot - the plans are drawn at 3/16" to a foot. Actually, Grimwood suggests that the needed station lines are marked on the lifts, the correct dimensions are marked on the lifts and then the waterline contours are drawn. I was concerned that I would not get matching contours using a flexible batten using the specified technique. Instead I will cut the poster board to WL2 and trace the contour to the second lift. The template will be cut back to WL1 and then traced to the lower lift.

The top lift gets its contour marked after the hull profile has been cut from the block. This profile will be drafted directly on the wood since it will have a longer surface than that of the plan.

WL1 and WL2 Template.jpg
 
As directed, I nailed the three lifts together (I drilled lead holes for the nails to minimize the chance of splitting the wood). Station lines were drawn around the block; everything lined up nicely - yeah! Two 1/4" holes were drilled to accept alignment dowels.
Block Station Lines Marked and Alignment Holes Drilled.jpg
The block was taken apart and waterlines 1 and 2 were drawn on lifts 1 and 2, respectively. I clamped the cutout templated to the lifts so they would not move when tracing the edge. It was at this point I noticed I had drawn the 'wrong' half of the hull as the model should have the bow to the right when completed. Not a big issue, just needed to flip the template over!
Drawing WL2 on Lift 2.jpgWL1 and WL2 Drawn on Lifts.jpg
The block was then reassembled and the hull profile was drawn on the outside face of the block:
Hull Profile Drawn on Block.jpg
I pulled out my proportional dividers to transfer dimensions from the plans to the station lines.

Now I need put in the dowel alignment pins and pull the nails before heading off to do some sawing. Grimwood suggests that the excess material on the ends should be cut off first, followed by the top and finally the bottom. I think I'll be attempting this work with a band saw.
 
I made up a sanding tool - a block attached at a right angle to another piece of wood. Holding the support block tight to the back of the block the top and bottom surfaces were smoothed to their respective extremes. Using 150 grit sandpaper, the shaping did not take long at all.

Top and Bottom Smoothed.jpg

I first saw this sanding technique / tool in a NRJ article written by David Antscherl. Actually, his block was shaped to the deck camber of the half-hull model he was building. I will likely do the same when it is time to shape the deck top.

This actually takes me to another, related, topic - the deck piece. Grimwood has the deck being shaped out of a 3/16" thick piece of mahogany (which I will use). His instructions calls for the deck sheet to be glued to the top lift after the hull has been fully shaped. I don't see how to easily clamp the deck sheet once the hull is shaped. However, it would not be difficult to glue the deck sheet to the top lift before the top lift is glued to the lower two lifts because at that point the top lift's flat bottom would be of similar size to the deck sheet.

Part of me wanted to follow Grimwood's instructions as written, but I wondering if it might be best to deviate on the deck attachments. Any objections / reasons it would be best to follow Grimwood's order of construction to the tee?

Next step will be to disassemble the lifts and cut them to their respective shapes.
 
I cut the three lifts just outside the waterlines using a band saw:

Lifts Cut to Shape with Band Saw.jpg

The lifts were then sanded back to the waterlines using a disk sander:

Lifts Sanded to Shape.jpg

Stacking / pinning them back together gets me to here:

Lifts Reassembled after Sanding to Waterlines.jpg

I'm going to mill the sheet of mahogany for the deck next. I am leaning toward adding the deck level before melding the lifts into one another.

I see a lot of carving / chiseling / sanding / shaping coming my way!
 
I pulled off the clamps today and hull shaping began. Using chisels, planes, rasps, and a bit of sandpaper some good progress was made.

Hull Shaping No 1.jpg

Now I need to draw the body plan to the correct scale and fabricate the dozen templates needed to continue shaping the hull.
 
Here's the scaled up body plan I drew today - probably would have been much easier to have printed the book plan at 200% !

Master Body Shape Template.jpg

Now to break the info into the separate templates.
 
Greg,
You will make life easier if you can locate and mark the chine on your hull. After that each body plan section is a pair of straight lines.

Roger
 
Greg,
You will make life easier if you can locate and mark the chine on your hull. After that each body plan section is a pair of straight lines.

Roger
Roger

Already did that! Still want to use the templates as an extra check / guide to getting everything as it should be!

Thanks,

Greg
 
Started to shape the bottom today - using chine line and keel lines as guides. For me, the hardest part of this process will be working the bottom flat in cross-section; i.e., removing the unintended crown that I currently have. But I assume I'll get there by going 'slow but sure' as I get closer to the desired shape. Fortunately, all the hard work is flattening convex surfaces and there are no concave surfaces to deal with as the hull does not hollow fore or aft.

I am looking forward to seeing the three lifts blend together in the aft / skeg region.


Bottom Shaping 1.jpgBottom Shaping 2.jpg
 
Bottom shaping Day 2 - more material removed and the crown is starting to disappear and the three lifts will soon form a smooth surface.

I'm working with medium / course rasp currently. It's not real fast, but it is strangely satisfying work!

Bottom Shaping - Day 2 -3.jpgBottom Shaping - Day 2 -4.jpg
 
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