Good morning Peter and Peter. Peter has past the rigging masters degree Cum Laude no doubt.
. He owned this standing rigging. Cheers Grant
Cazador Xebec 1750 - OcCre - scale 1:60 [COMPLETED BUILD]
. He owned this standing rigging. Cheers Grant
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2021
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Rigging of the Mizzen...
Hello everybody, before I start with the update of the rigging of the Mizzen mast I needed to correct "the arch". The shape and construction was wrong. It was to wide and to thin and it was connected to the upper railing on the bulwarks instead of constructed between both bulwarks. So, I ripped the old one off and made a new one. It was a tough job due to all the bevels this thing has. I'm glad it's done....
The "old" one....
And the new one... I made a cardboard mold and use a piece of solid walnut and took out the basic shape. After that I sanded all the necessary bevels.
Also I made some rings and bolts that will be needed later on for the running rigging.
Now that's done, time to move on to the rigging of the Mizzen mast. First a drawing.
I need one double sheave, 3 single sheave and one violin block per side. 0.9mm and 0.6mm rope is used.
Again serving 6 ropes for the pins. 3 per side....
Then the upper blocks connected to the mast.
In between the ropes with blocks and tied it all together.
Well, the standing rigging is done. All three masts are secured. It's a nice journey to experience this type of rigging so far. In fact, it's fun to tied down standing rigging that somewhat functions the same as running rigging. Ah well, time to move on to the running rigging, yards and sails. It will be a tough journey because I've never made sails from scratch what I am intend to do for this ship. All I need is now a new cuss jar because I broke the previous one....
You guys are truly wonderful to have you following along the way and it's a real pleasure to follow your endeavors as well. Please leave a comment if you like.
regards,
Peter
Hello everybody, before I start with the update of the rigging of the Mizzen mast I needed to correct "the arch". The shape and construction was wrong. It was to wide and to thin and it was connected to the upper railing on the bulwarks instead of constructed between both bulwarks. So, I ripped the old one off and made a new one. It was a tough job due to all the bevels this thing has. I'm glad it's done....
The "old" one....
And the new one... I made a cardboard mold and use a piece of solid walnut and took out the basic shape. After that I sanded all the necessary bevels.
Also I made some rings and bolts that will be needed later on for the running rigging.
Now that's done, time to move on to the rigging of the Mizzen mast. First a drawing.
I need one double sheave, 3 single sheave and one violin block per side. 0.9mm and 0.6mm rope is used.
Again serving 6 ropes for the pins. 3 per side....
Then the upper blocks connected to the mast.
In between the ropes with blocks and tied it all together.
Well, the standing rigging is done. All three masts are secured. It's a nice journey to experience this type of rigging so far. In fact, it's fun to tied down standing rigging that somewhat functions the same as running rigging. Ah well, time to move on to the running rigging, yards and sails. It will be a tough journey because I've never made sails from scratch what I am intend to do for this ship. All I need is now a new cuss jar because I broke the previous one....
You guys are truly wonderful to have you following along the way and it's a real pleasure to follow your endeavors as well. Please leave a comment if you like.
regards,
Peter
Beautiful work Peter!
I rigged the blocks to raise the yards prior to doing the standing rigging, because it will be harder to get too afterwards. I hung the line through the pulleys attached to a clip and weight on the end to keep tension on the lines until it was time to hang the yards with sails.
But I think you will still be able to do the rigging with the blocks for the yards after doing the standing rigging, but it may be harder to reach.
I rigged the blocks to raise the yards prior to doing the standing rigging, because it will be harder to get too afterwards. I hung the line through the pulleys attached to a clip and weight on the end to keep tension on the lines until it was time to hang the yards with sails.
But I think you will still be able to do the rigging with the blocks for the yards after doing the standing rigging, but it may be harder to reach.
The new arch is very elegant. A nice redo to further enhance this build.
Good morning Peter. I’m with you. The new arch is spot on. To me the old arch was excellent and you just improved excellence….Every time I see your tiller it blows me awayRigging of the Mizzen...
Hello everybody, before I start with the update of the rigging of the Mizzen mast I needed to correct "the arch". The shape and construction was wrong. It was to wide and to thin and it was connected to the upper railing on the bulwarks instead of constructed between both bulwarks. So, I ripped the old one off and made a new one. It was a tough job due to all the bevels this thing has. I'm glad it's done....
The "old" one....
And the new one... I made a cardboard mold and use a piece of solid walnut and took out the basic shape. After that I sanded all the necessary bevels.
Also I made some rings and bolts that will be needed later on for the running rigging.
Now that's done, time to move on to the rigging of the Mizzen mast. First a drawing.
I need one double sheave, 3 single sheave and one violin block per side. 0.9mm and 0.6mm rope is used.
Again serving 6 ropes for the pins. 3 per side....
Then the upper blocks connected to the mast.
In between the ropes with blocks and tied it all together.
Well, the standing rigging is done. All three masts are secured. It's a nice journey to experience this type of rigging so far. In fact, it's fun to tied down standing rigging that somewhat functions the same as running rigging. Ah well, time to move on to the running rigging, yards and sails. It will be a tough journey because I've never made sails from scratch what I am intend to do for this ship. All I need is now a new cuss jar because I broke the previous one....
You guys are truly wonderful to have you following along the way and it's a real pleasure to follow your endeavors as well. Please leave a comment if you like.
regards,
Peter
…so good. I hear Deans (@Dean62)concerns with the rigging sequence, however I’m sure you will be able to work around this- you may just need the swear jar out. I think after working around a “million” lines on the Victory I have no fear of rigging sequences anymore. Cheers Grant
Making something from Scratch is always very satisfying. Nicely done, Peter. With the masts and the standing rigging, the whole gives a lot of body. It is now starting to come to life.
Regards, Peter
Regards, Peter
- Joined
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- Messages
- 713
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- 403
Construction of the yards.
Hi guys,
This weekend I started to construct the yards. 3 to be exact. Each yard consist out of two parts tapered to the end. When bound together a strong but flexible yard is the result so it won't break in the wind. This is what I want to simulate, so I want to give the wood a light curve. I drew the curve on a piece of plywood and use some brass nails along the lines to hold the two parts of the yard in place. Water and steam is used to set the curve into the memory of the wood. I used the Admirals iron when she doesn't noticed it.
I let the wood "set" overnight. The next morning I used Ink to blacken the yards and placed some temporary bindings to hold the two part together.
The bindings are placed with equal distance of each other. I cut the temporary bindings when reached. They are no longer needed only to hold the parts together during the placement of the final bindings.
When all yards are ready....
Regards,
Peter
Hi guys,
This weekend I started to construct the yards. 3 to be exact. Each yard consist out of two parts tapered to the end. When bound together a strong but flexible yard is the result so it won't break in the wind. This is what I want to simulate, so I want to give the wood a light curve. I drew the curve on a piece of plywood and use some brass nails along the lines to hold the two parts of the yard in place. Water and steam is used to set the curve into the memory of the wood. I used the Admirals iron when she doesn't noticed it.
I let the wood "set" overnight. The next morning I used Ink to blacken the yards and placed some temporary bindings to hold the two part together.
The bindings are placed with equal distance of each other. I cut the temporary bindings when reached. They are no longer needed only to hold the parts together during the placement of the final bindings.
When all yards are ready....
Regards,
Peter
Hello Peter. I don't recall ever seeing a model showing yards under load - looking forward to that! A wonderful additional to your inspiring build.
Hi Peter, I see a perfectly executed redo on the arch and as Paul said the yards under a load will be a new and exciting look to me.
Good morning Peter. Stunning work and wonderfully shown in your log. I have been debating wether I want curved or straight yards so I’m excited to see how they look. Your rope work is superb. Some of the best bindings I have seen. Cheers Grant. PS the Admiral always knows- next time she uses her iron she will get that wood smellConstruction of the yards.
Hi guys,
This weekend I started to construct the yards. 3 to be exact. Each yard consist out of two parts tapered to the end. When bound together a strong but flexible yard is the result so it won't break in the wind. This is what I want to simulate, so I want to give the wood a light curve. I drew the curve on a piece of plywood and use some brass nails along the lines to hold the two parts of the yard in place. Water and steam is used to set the curve into the memory of the wood. I used the Admirals iron when she doesn't noticed it.
I let the wood "set" overnight. The next morning I used Ink to blacken the yards and placed some temporary bindings to hold the two part together.
The bindings are placed with equal distance of each other. I cut the temporary bindings when reached. They are no longer needed only to hold the parts together during the placement of the final bindings.
When all yards are ready....
Regards,
Peter
To borrow a grantism: TRUE STORY!
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2021
- Messages
- 713
- Points
- 403
the Admiral always knows- next time she uses her iron she will get that wood smell
Deny until proven guilty.....presumption of innocence
the woody smell is just my cologne...
Good morning Peter
I am going to order some blocks. What are the size blocks you are using for your rigging? Are they 4mm and 6mm for the Violin blocks? Thanks. Cheers Grant
I am going to order some blocks. What are the size blocks you are using for your rigging? Are they 4mm and 6mm for the Violin blocks? Thanks. Cheers Grant
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2021
- Messages
- 713
- Points
- 403
Hi Grant,
I have to look this up, count all the blocks and write it down. I'll send you a PM with all the information due to the fact I've used many different sizes. You'll have it this weekend for sure.
Peter
Good morning Peter. Thank you kindly. Appreciated. Cheers GrantHi Grant,
I have to look this up, count all the blocks and write it down. I'll send you a PM with all the information due to the fact I've used many different sizes. You'll have it this weekend for sure.
Peter
Peter,
Just catching up - always a pleasure dropping by - I will probably emulate, as best that I can, some of your rigging details - beautiful work indeed.
Just catching up - always a pleasure dropping by - I will probably emulate, as best that I can, some of your rigging details - beautiful work indeed.
True story
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2021
- Messages
- 713
- Points
- 403
Making sails
Hi guys,
Thank you all for following and for all the positive messages. I have been studying on the running rigging and it's not that easy to figure it out. I need more time to really understand the way the rigging works. In the mean time I have to take on another hurdle, making the sails. So I started with simply draw the design of the sails on a piece of paper. The picture below shows the sail of the main mast. It's the biggest of the 3 sails this ship has.
Next step is to make them out of a piece of cloth. Luckily I found some very fine woven cloth in England and ordered some. Cloth found and can be taken off the list.
Next is a sewing machine. I found one in the attic of our home. My Admiral have one, but can't handle the machine.
I have to learn how to operate this "thing"..... I know now much more of threat tension, bobbins, needles, straight stitches, cross stitches......the things I always dreamt of wanting to learn.....
Anyway....after filling the swear jar a couple of times, I start to try it out with the sail of the Mizzenmast. It's the smallest of the three. First step is to draw all the lines on the cloth. All these lines need to be stitches with a straigt stitch. Never.....NEVER start with a very fine, thin and delicate woven cloth. It's one of the most difficult cloths to work with. I don't have the luxury that sails were made of jeans or something....
This was my first run on this type of cloth. Made some test runs on different types of cloth so I learned how to operate this hellish machine....
After this I didn't make pictures, but made the seams separate from the main body of the sail. I made it so that the seam is visible from both sides of the sail.
Then I aged the sail with diluted bitumen. The sail I've made does not make it on te ship and still is a learning piece. The needle that's in the machine is actually to thick and so I have troubles keeping the line straight when sewing the seams on the body of the sail. So I'll go experiment with a much thinner needle.
Until the next update with hopefully 3 finished and hopefully better finished sails.
regards,
Peter
Hi guys,
Thank you all for following and for all the positive messages. I have been studying on the running rigging and it's not that easy to figure it out. I need more time to really understand the way the rigging works. In the mean time I have to take on another hurdle, making the sails. So I started with simply draw the design of the sails on a piece of paper. The picture below shows the sail of the main mast. It's the biggest of the 3 sails this ship has.
Next step is to make them out of a piece of cloth. Luckily I found some very fine woven cloth in England and ordered some. Cloth found and can be taken off the list.
Next is a sewing machine. I found one in the attic of our home. My Admiral have one, but can't handle the machine.
I have to learn how to operate this "thing"..... I know now much more of threat tension, bobbins, needles, straight stitches, cross stitches......the things I always dreamt of wanting to learn.....
Anyway....after filling the swear jar a couple of times, I start to try it out with the sail of the Mizzenmast. It's the smallest of the three. First step is to draw all the lines on the cloth. All these lines need to be stitches with a straigt stitch. Never.....NEVER start with a very fine, thin and delicate woven cloth. It's one of the most difficult cloths to work with. I don't have the luxury that sails were made of jeans or something....
This was my first run on this type of cloth. Made some test runs on different types of cloth so I learned how to operate this hellish machine....
After this I didn't make pictures, but made the seams separate from the main body of the sail. I made it so that the seam is visible from both sides of the sail.
Then I aged the sail with diluted bitumen. The sail I've made does not make it on te ship and still is a learning piece. The needle that's in the machine is actually to thick and so I have troubles keeping the line straight when sewing the seams on the body of the sail. So I'll go experiment with a much thinner needle.
Until the next update with hopefully 3 finished and hopefully better finished sails.
regards,
Peter
That’s actually a nice first effort. My wife does upholstery for vehicles, for a living. She typically uses the large industrial machines (Juki) that can sew through leather. But also uses a regular machine for smaller stuff.
She looked at the picture and said you need to adjust the tension to be less and use a smaller needle and thread. Tension is typically adjusted on the thread, the bobbin, and the foot, depending on machine. Too much tension on either of those can cause issues. It’s a variable of material thickness, thread type and size, and needle size. For a soft thin material you want to go light on everything. Hope that helps!
Ps - you can do a search online to find out how to make adjustments to your sewing machine. If you get lucky there might even be a video available.
She looked at the picture and said you need to adjust the tension to be less and use a smaller needle and thread. Tension is typically adjusted on the thread, the bobbin, and the foot, depending on machine. Too much tension on either of those can cause issues. It’s a variable of material thickness, thread type and size, and needle size. For a soft thin material you want to go light on everything. Hope that helps!
Ps - you can do a search online to find out how to make adjustments to your sewing machine. If you get lucky there might even be a video available.
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