CNC for model making

[cheyne]

Hi,
In case anybody is wondering what the item to the right is it is my home made dust extractor. Thought I'd give making one the size I wanted a go not knowing if it would work very well or not. Thankfully my time was not wasted with this one. Actually works better than I had expected. The complete system runs on 24VDC with each motor having it's own speed controller. It all runs quieter than a vaccum cleaner which is just as planned.
Incidentally I uploaded all my plans to AeroFred but still have them filed with me. Not a lot of square riggers but loads of others. I have not compiled a list but if anypne wants anything yell out and I can see if or what I have.
Cheers

 

[Stan Stocker]

IF you don't need 2.5 or 3D CNC machining, and are just dicing up flat stock for frames and such as found in most boat model kits:

Fairly low cost diode lasers are readily available these days. I prefer Lightburn software to any of the free or bundled stuff, in spite of their dropping the linux version and now being mac or windows only. As a fairly recent boat modeler no boat specific uses have been tried so far, still in the kit rather than scratch building phase . My use has been to cut out parts and kits of parts for HO scale structures. A 10 watt laser will do nicely cutting up to 3mm / 1/8 inch basswood or thicker. 1/4 inch birch ply will take multiple passes but it can be done. Although it isn't always part of the machine as delivered and air assist setup is mandatory for cleaner, faster, and deeper cuts.

FWIW, I'm using a Sculpfun 10watt with the bed extender kit so larger sheets of material can be cut. Other folks seem just as content with the Ortur or TwoTrees machines.

I have two CNC routers and two CNC mills but they were obtained for my old clock restoration business. For thin sheet goods the laser wins hands down for speed and low dust. Bonus points: you don't have to clamp the work and inside corners don't need dog bone or other compensation. You will need some means of extracting smoke, be it a large fan blowing air out the window or an smoke extractor and charcoal canister or vent. Lots of options for handling this, odds are most folks already have some means of handling spray finishing that may accommodate the smoke from a laser.

You can get a diode laser and the lightburn software for less than most any similar work envelope offshore CNC router. My desktop CNC mill (Sherline) cost far more than these machines in a base configuration, and the Sherline (or Taig / openbuilds / conventional CNC router or mill of your choice) still needs motion control hardware/drivers/software to be usable.

 

[cheyne]

IF you don't need 2.5 or 3D CNC machining, and are just dicing up flat stock for frames and such as found in most boat model kits:

Fairly low cost diode lasers are readily available these days. I prefer Lightburn software to any of the free or bundled stuff, in spite of their dropping the linux version and now being mac or windows only. As a fairly recent boat modeler no boat specific uses have been tried so far, still in the kit rather than scratch building phase . My use has been to cut out parts and kits of parts for HO scale structures. A 10 watt laser will do nicely cutting up to 3mm / 1/8 inch basswood or thicker. 1/4 inch birch ply will take multiple passes but it can be done. Although it isn't always part of the machine as delivered and air assist setup is mandatory for cleaner, faster, and deeper cuts.

FWIW, I'm using a Sculpfun 10watt with the bed extender kit so larger sheets of material can be cut. Other folks seem just as content with the Ortur or TwoTrees machines.

I have two CNC routers and two CNC mills but they were obtained for my old clock restoration business. For thin sheet goods the laser wins hands down for speed and low dust. Bonus points: you don't have to clamp the work and inside corners don't need dog bone or other compensation. You will need some means of extracting smoke, be it a large fan blowing air out the window or an smoke extractor and charcoal canister or vent. Lots of options for handling this, odds are most folks already have some means of handling spray finishing that may accommodate the smoke from a laser.

You can get a diode laser and the lightburn software for less than most any similar work envelope offshore CNC router. My desktop CNC mill (Sherline) cost far more than these machines in a base configuration, and the Sherline (or Taig / openbuilds / conventional CNC router or mill of your choice) still needs motion control hardware/drivers/software to be usable.

Hi,
I have gone the same way with a 160Watt diode laser and 2 cnc routers also left over from my clock restoration business. Currently sorting myself out after a huge downsize into a Retirement centre. Kept what I could but still will have to let more equipment go. As yet haven't had a chance to setup my laser. I was running a 3Watt laser which I had to dispose of for the shift in preference for keeping my new 160Watt laser. Got rid of my lathes and milling equipment and am now eyeing up a smaller lathe to fit the rather smaller garage I now have, down from 4 car garage to a single. I run Mach3 and Lightburn with Aspire software and AutoCAD. I have been thinking of 3D printers but until they can print in timber, I don't see a lot of use for me. I like building from scratch but without the means to make all the parts I used to I can see I might have to relent and go with timber kits while I sort out my workshop.
Cheers