Coiled rope

[Johnnymike]

Originally I posted this under Rigging as Line Coating
but then thought is was more of a technique so here it is.

I like to form a coiled rope to hang around cleats and belaying pins.
I found it easy to coil the string separately and hang it after tying off a line.
You can place it in such a way that you can not see it is separate from the main line.

I tried, and now use a basting glue to temporarily hold tied knots and
found that if you coat a line with a watered down basting glue it holds together.

I soak the line then wrap it around Teflon dowels to get the coil.
It leaves the line natural looking and with no fuzz it looks clean and you can still see the detail wrap of the line.
The wrap shown is 0.5d line.
Once the glue sets it is easy to slide off the dowels. I have 3 different dowel sets for different
coil sizes.

It worked so good here I started coating all the line with it.

 

[TheGatzby]

There appears to be a lot of visible residue in that bottom picture..

 

[AllanKP69]

I think your idea is worth a try. I tried to think where a tarred (dark) line would have a coil but cannot think of any. You have an untarred line for the stay but a dark line for the cart falls so I am totally confused.

 

[Johnnymike]

Good eye. The bottom picture was just an example of how I use a coiled rope. This was done when I used a non diluted basting glue and CA glue.
The top picture is what it looks like now. I just tried this new idea yesterday
for the first time. The look of the bottom picture has bothered me and is why I was playing around with trying to improve.

You are correct on color. I often just use what I have.

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Does basting glue remain tacking or dry solid? If it stays tacky to the touch, it will attract dust over time, especially of you display the model without a glass case to cover it.

 

[POPEYE_DA_SAILOR]

Basting or fabric glues will work, but they are sometimes "permanent" and not reversible at all and, even the "reversible" types require washing in soap and water to remove them. They are intended for temporary use and cannot be considered archival. For this reason, I would not favor them for any use on a scale ship model. The most important two properties of any adhesive for ship modeling are 1) easy reversibility without damage to the surrounding areas and 2) good archival properties. For use on rigging line, I've found clear thinned (3 pound cut or less) shellac to be preferable. It is easily dissolved and blotted up with ordinary alcohol if one requires disassembly to correct a mistake in building or to effect repairs. Shellac is also compatible with all other coatings and, if not applied excessively, is virtually invisible, making for a very neat appearance. Modernly, many restorationists and conservators are using Paraloid B-72, an acetone-soluble thermoplastic resin for sealing and adhesion. Reports are it works similarly to shellac, but better. It takes some learning to mix it yourself, although it is also available now in a somewhat more costly pre-mixed form. Most dissolve the less expensive dry crystals in acetone to customize its available properties.