Some minor progress today after a vacation break.
I closed the gaps around the bow sprit with putty:
The next step will be adding all the canons before I can add the upper deck.
I experimented with several concepts to produce them, here is what the final prototype looks like:
So now I will have to produce (and paint) 28 of these little guys...
I closed the gaps around the bow sprit with putty:
The next step will be adding all the canons before I can add the upper deck.
I experimented with several concepts to produce them, here is what the final prototype looks like:
So now I will have to produce (and paint) 28 of these little guys...
Are you going to plank over the hull with timber strips, or paint ?
To be honest I still did not make up my mind on the question.
Up until now I was inclined to do it with paint because I don't feel confident to be able to cut the planking strips from card with the required precision.
The idea of tinder strips however is new to me, could you elaborate a bit?
thin timber planking material, say 1mm thick for easy bending.
Do you have a link by any chance? Tried googling it but only got dating app results
I did find some model ship hull planking strips on ebay but they all seem to be made of wood which I imagine isn't easy to bend...
Look at the vendor links on the front page of this forum. There are multiple businesses selling timber planking.
Use veneer and cut it into strips with a cutter
Verwende Holz-Furnier und schneide dieses mit einem cutter in gleich breite Streifen
Verwende Holz-Furnier und schneide dieses mit einem cutter in gleich breite Streifen
I bought a kit with a selection of veneer sheets of different wood types to experiment a bit.
I am thinking it might be wise to first paint the hull in a dark brown color so that it's a littlebit more forgiving wrt gaps between the planks.
Any thoughts?
I am thinking it might be wise to first paint the hull in a dark brown color so that it's a littlebit more forgiving wrt gaps between the planks.
Any thoughts?
I went ahead and painted the hull:
The result looks a lot "woodier" than I thought ... I think that if I hadn't chosen a much darker color than what I want the end result to look like I'd be really tempted to skip the planking after all...
I was a bit scared to get started with the planking only to then realize I am screwing up the model so I decided to build a tiny practicing prototype and planked one side of it with veneer.
This is the result:
It's by no means perfect but I also think that if I use a little more caution on the real model I should be able to do a little better and get a decent results so I think I'll go ahead with planking in the next session!
The result looks a lot "woodier" than I thought ... I think that if I hadn't chosen a much darker color than what I want the end result to look like I'd be really tempted to skip the planking after all...
I was a bit scared to get started with the planking only to then realize I am screwing up the model so I decided to build a tiny practicing prototype and planked one side of it with veneer.
This is the result:
It's by no means perfect but I also think that if I use a little more caution on the real model I should be able to do a little better and get a decent results so I think I'll go ahead with planking in the next session!
Last week I started planking. I did not want to post a picture yet because the progress was ridiculously small... Not that I went much faster this week but here is what I have now (on both sides):
I am trying to replicate the color scheme shown on the image in this wikipedia article:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_frigate_Hermione_(1779)
So I'll do three rows of the brighter color, then again one or two of the darker one.
For the rest of the hull I'll use yet another much brighter color which I'll then paint in white. Or at least that's my current plan.
In parallel I started the production of 32(!) guns, not 28 as I previously mentioned.
While I was looking for the historic colors on the hull I realized that I had missed the fact that there are more guns on the upper deck...
So I added four additional gun ports above the main row of gun ports...
I am trying to replicate the color scheme shown on the image in this wikipedia article:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_frigate_Hermione_(1779)
So I'll do three rows of the brighter color, then again one or two of the darker one.
For the rest of the hull I'll use yet another much brighter color which I'll then paint in white. Or at least that's my current plan.
In parallel I started the production of 32(!) guns, not 28 as I previously mentioned.
While I was looking for the historic colors on the hull I realized that I had missed the fact that there are more guns on the upper deck...
So I added four additional gun ports above the main row of gun ports...
While I realize my planks are far from perfect I am still pleased with the result. This takes forever but it's worth it.
I also made the first ten (or so) guns (while glue of planks was drying). The wheel sides still need some paint but you can tell how they are going to look like already:
I also made the first ten (or so) guns (while glue of planks was drying). The wheel sides still need some paint but you can tell how they are going to look like already:
Great job you do! Do you know the basic book:
"Historische Schiffsmodelle" by Wolfram zu Mondfeld? For around €10,- it is yours - very helpfull lecture highly recommend.
Have a nice day. Best wishes from Berlin, Christian
"Historische Schiffsmodelle" by Wolfram zu Mondfeld? For around €10,- it is yours - very helpfull lecture highly recommend.
Have a nice day. Best wishes from Berlin, Christian
Thanks a lot, I'll take a look! (Does it also contain the ship I am working on?)
It does work on well done shipmodelling at all - Mondfeld does built several ship models you may have seen in museums in Munich or Berlin.
He does tell you about how planks were cut und in what pattern they were nailed originally - and how the (enclosed) nailing could be reestablish in scale. He walks you through the hole rigging of sailingships.
The flute ZEEHAEN
If you do want a propper plan for your next project with a great and "seaworthy" quality I would recommend
"The Ships of Abel Tasman" by our colleauge Ab Hoving. He also does tell the story of this exiting expedition to us. Modelbuilding is much more than glueing parts together it is a lot of social history (and often ergonomy*).
Showing a pair of adventurer's ships in rich
detail and precise drawings. You do get drawings (in paper and CD-ROM) that could be enlarged in any scale you prefere to build in.
As info recommend is to stay with one or two scales to keep the ships in your collection compareable. Due to the size of my flat I voted for 1/64 (coming from the half of 1/32
or a quarter of 1/16 you may know from motorbike kits).
This is the model from the Australia maritime Museum
and this is the 
ealand's museum's interpretation. So there are a plenty of good and not too expensive plans floating arround.BTW:In the Mondfeld book you also do find a complete plan for an English galeon from the Tudor period. So feel free to copy it and enlarge it into a scale of your choice in the copyshop - use the ruler of scale to your benefit ;-) in the enlargement process.
Here an interesting picture to the plans drawn by Ab:
This is what a typical Dutch flute looked like.
Have a great day,
best wishes from Berlin, Christian
*If you to chose 1/72 test your plans by aplying a cheap miniature of the same scale and look if the figure could stand in any room he enters and do his work? Please remember the Soviet T-72 was designed in the mid60th of the XXth century to cramp two men under 1,65m of hight with ammo and an 125mm autoloader** into a as small as possible turret under heavy armour protection and more lay than set a thrid man infront of them as a driver - or take a look at Formular 1 racing cars...
**and saftyguards in it to make shure no accidents happen - and these "reported" accidents where only a Western myth (YT-TankChat T-72).
Last edited:
