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Constitution Cross Section MS20245 Model Expo

The truss tackles are next. There are 2 of these ports and starboard. As I stated before their job was to keep the yard tight against the mast. To do so they wrap around both the mast and the yard. The tricky part of this is that behind the mast the lines after being wrapped around the yard end by first inserting through a small fairlead on the back of the mast. Complexly they then end as an eye through which the DECENDING line of the opposite (port or starboard) truss tackle passes through.

I wanted everything to be nice and neat and tight. The other end of this line is stropped to a single block which another line that becomes the line for a block and tackle is seized to as I showed a few pictures above. Because the line passes through the fairlead you can not do both the stropping of the single block and making the eye off the ship.

So after taking time to think how best to do this in tight quarters, I decided to work "backwards". I threaded the one set of lines to the double blocks that are attached to the rear part of the cap block. I threaded to line so the end of it would feed to the set of cleats I previously affixed to the topsail mast.

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I temporarily used small clamps to clamp the line to the cleats so I could adjust the length of the block and tackle to tighten the lines after the truss lines were inserted.

The other line went down to behind the yard. It was then wrapped twice around the yard medial to the jeers rigging and fed to go behind the mast.

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Now behind the mast, the lines were fed through the fairlead and wrapped around the opposite line that was descending BEFORE it wrapped around the yard, I then held the loops with those small electric test clamp probes, that make for great clamps for this. I adjusted the lines until the single blocks on the block and tackles were fairly even and all the lines were tight. I then seized the lines to make small eyelets and cut away the spare line. (I should have taken some pictures of this procedure)

Since there was a fair amount of room behind the mast this procedure went easier than I expected.

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I then dropped and belayed the stun sail boom line and attached the lift lines.

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With that, the rigging is essentially complete! All I have left is installing some of the "fiddly bits"!
 
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The fighting top rail was made a few months ago and stored away. I am glad that I did not install it until now. I am certain it would have been broken during the installation of the rigging. The top did not fit at first due to interference with the topsail deadeyes. (another excellent reason not to instal it, it probably would have made installation of the shrouds much more difficult) I sanded down the two corners that were near the deadeyes and it wa able to fit and be glued.

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The netting of the hammock rail which was also stored away, was fitted and cut to size. They glued easily into place. This is another piece that should be put in last, as it will interfere with the installation of the rigging.

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I am spending a little time making rope hanks to hang on the fife rails. I saw a helpful tip from one of our fellow members on how to do this with a jig that your Admiral owns.

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It works well and is fast and neat.

I also placed "handrails" on the gangways. Instead of the fine line suggested, I used straightened 27 gauge wire which passed through the eyeholes and was CAed into place. It looks nice and tight and was much easier (IMHO) than using line. I used the same procedure when making the Jacobs ladder.

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The hatchway canopy frame is made out of this extremely pliable metal that is only somewhat less pliable than solder. I spent a lot of time cleaning it up and making the pieces straight. I also had to drill some holes into the canopy frames (the top part), as well as drill out some holes due to insufficient casting. I am not sure I like this piece and I may leave it off. However I will build and paint it before I decide what to do.

I used the base of the hatch to secure the railing that had to be glued together. I did not glue the railing to the hatch.

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The canopy pieces then went on, which required a lot of fiddling around to get everything to seat and fit. Plus a lot of unintentional bending due to the weakness. Hopefully in the future such items will be make with 3D printing.

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The Canopy and rails are finally glued together. I will take it off the ship, clean it with some alcohol and airbrush it. The instructions says use gold paint, but I think I will stick with a bronze color.

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The hatchway canopy frame is made out of this extremely pliable metal that is only somewhat less pliable than solder. I spent a lot of time cleaning it up and making the pieces straight. I also had to drill some holes into the canopy frames (the top part), as well as drill out some holes due to insufficient casting. I am not sure I like this piece and I may leave it off. However I will build and paint it before I decide what to do.

I used the base of the hatch to secure the railing that had to be glued together. I did not glue the railing to the hatch.

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The canopy pieces then went on, which required a lot of fiddling around to get everything to seat and fit. Plus a lot of unintentional bending due to the weakness. Hopefully in the future such items will be make with 3D printing.

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The Canopy and rails are finally glued together. I will take it off the ship, clean it with some alcohol and airbrush it. The instructions says use gold paint, but I think I will stick with a bronze color.

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Good morning Rob. Very nice indeed. I love the busyness of the deck with the hanks, cannon rigging, nails and details. Way to go. Cheers Grant
 
Well, painted the canopy a copper color and attached it to the ship with some mild adhesive, so I can remove it if I want to. I also placed some barrels upright on the orlop deck to make it a tad more interesting, and slowly am making more rope hanks. I am going to work on the banner and see if I like the look. Once that is done the cross section will be finished. Kind of a bitter sweet moment, which I guess most of us experience.

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The toggles were separated from the dowel and rounded.
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They were then attached to line. One for the banner and one for the banner lanyard. On the other end of the banner line I formed a small loop which the toggle on the banner lanyard will attach to.

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I also formed a loop on the banner lanyard I then fed the other end through the single block on top of the mast. The toggle on the banner then went through the lanyard loop. The lanyard went down to the fife rail where I looped it around a belaying pin and brought it up to the top of the mast where the banner was. I seized the other toggle onto that end of the lanyard, allowing slack so I can wrap the lanyard around the belaying pin. That toggle went into the loop on the bottom of the banner.

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With that I declare the Cross section FINISHED!

I will be posting further pictures of the finished project.
 
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With that I declare the Cross section FINISHED!

I will be posting further pictures of the finished project.
Congratulations on finishing the Constitution cross-section! Beautiful work from start to finish. We can really see (hope you can admit it) how much your skills have grown over the course of this project: cleaner execution, more confident detailing, and a much deeper understanding of structure and materials. This build isn’t just a finished model; it clearly reflects a solid new skillset and a lot of hard-earned experience. Very well done. Display her with pride!
 
All in all, I think this is a great kit. There were a few misdirections in the instructions, but I think they will do you right if you take your time. My biggest mistake was the swapping of the port and starboard interior gun walls, which while want really mentioned in the instructions (that I could see) was totally my fault. My fellow builders build logs were invaluable. A cross section is definitely a great idea before building a complete ship. I learned so much. The helpful comments of all of you are deeply appreciated!

Building simpler kits first was certainly key. I doubt I would have completed this cross section if I had not the previous experience with the simpler kits. I am going to take a small hiatus, building a mars Viking lander that I want to present at the IPMSs show in Fort Wayne Indiana in July. Then it will be on to the Black Swan kit that I was lucky enough to have won in a contest here.
 
Congratulations on finishing the Constitution cross-section! Beautiful work from start to finish. We can really see (hope you can admit it) how much your skills have grown over the course of this project: cleaner execution, more confident detailing, and a much deeper understanding of structure and materials. This build isn’t just a finished model; it clearly reflects a solid new skillset and a lot of hard-earned experience. Very well done. Display her with pride!
Thank you so much Jim. Everyone's comments and support were certainly key for me. You are right I have learned a tremendous amount, and I really do have a more profound understanding and appreciation of what went in to making one of these magnificent ships. I am hoping to present this to my local library for display for our 250th anniversary.

Rob
 
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