Contact Cement

[Ab Hoving]

Well, for one thing, it is gap-filling. If you want to glue frames into a hull (I am speaking of shell-first building of course) it is much easier to fill any gaps between the hull and the new part than painstakingly working on a perfect fit.

 

[John Hendrix]

Of course, makes sense. Thnx!

 

[KeithLyall]

I’ve been watching several Step by Step videos by OcCre. The builders use contact cement on second hull planking and deck planking. The standard technique is to apply to both surfaces, wait about 15 minutes, and then press to place. So far so good. My question is that in the application of the ‘larger’ piece such as the hull or false deck, more area is covered with cement than can be immediately be used by the covering materials i.e. hull strips or deck planks. If the task in question is not entirely completed at one setting, does the cement on this ‘extra’ area need to be removed from the base before starting again? Can you come back the next day and begin again by just applying cement to the new plank piece, do you need to apply a thin coat to the previously dried base first? If you do have to completely remove and start over as you would with white glue for instance, what’s the best method? And is ‘contact’ cement the same as ‘rubber’ cement? I like the immediacy of contact cement over white glue for these areas and it seems to be much more forgiving than cyanoacrylates, but I don’t know how careful I have to be and what the pitfalls might be.

I have used PVA glue on my builds and use masking tape to hold the planks in place until they dry. For hull timber I also pin the planks. The PVA has the advantage that you can move around rather than contact glue where no adjustments can be made after contact between parts.

 

[Graham]

I sometimes use contact adhesive on woodworking projects but would never use it on a ship build - once the glued faces meet that's it, no wriggle time and a hell of a job to remove if you get it even slightly wrong.

 

[Uwek]

I’ve been watching several Step by Step videos by OcCre. The builders use contact cement on second hull planking and deck planking. The standard technique is to apply to both surfaces, wait about 15 minutes, and then press to place. So far so good. My question is that in the application of the ‘larger’ piece such as the hull or false deck, more area is covered with cement than can be immediately be used by the covering materials i.e. hull strips or deck planks. If the task in question is not entirely completed at one setting, does the cement on this ‘extra’ area need to be removed from the base before starting again? Can you come back the next day and begin again by just applying cement to the new plank piece, do you need to apply a thin coat to the previously dried base first? If you do have to completely remove and start over as you would with white glue for instance, what’s the best method? And is ‘contact’ cement the same as ‘rubber’ cement? I like the immediacy of contact cement over white glue for these areas and it seems to be much more forgiving than cyanoacrylates, but I don’t know how careful I have to be and what the pitfalls might be.

Hallo @bargejo
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY

 

[Corsair]

Happy birthday !

 

[paul ron]

First, rubber cement and contact cement are NOT the same. To me, the major drawback is that when you use contact cement, as soon as the glue of the two pieces touches, you will not be able to make any "adjustments" to the placement of the part. When they stick, they are together and you can not move it.

I don't know the answer to your question about the glue after a day. I know that even after a few hours, the 2 pieces will still stick fast. Definitely experiment with this one.

Hope that helps!

Jeff

agreed... once they come in contact, there are no adjustments. as for longevity, the formica in your home are put together with contact cement and last a long long time. but heat can delaminate contact cement.