Converting ship scales to architechs ruler

The scale is stated in the form of n : n (number : number) i.e. the left side is the scaled down unit used on paper : the right side is the full size measurement of the subject in real life the left side is equal to.

Firstly, if the scale given does not specify a unit of measure you can choose whatever unit of measure you desire: metric or imperial, but it MUST initially apply to BOTH sides of the scale reference. e.g. 1:200 must be 1mm on paper = 200mm full size, or 1 inch on paper = 200 inches full size, etc.

Secondly, only then can you convert your predetermined scale reference to whatever other unit you may want on either side, HOWEVER you MUST physically note the specified unit of measure you decide to use on each side of the scale reference for record purposes, AND you MUST apply your conversions to maintain the numeric equivalence of the original measurements you specified to be used in the scale reference at the beginning. Whether you choose metres, inches, feet, yards, miles, kilometres, millimetres, they must always be the equivalent of the originally specified 1 inch on the left side and the 200 inches on the right side for example.

e.g. 1 inch = 200 inches, therefore 1 inch = MUST equal 16.6666 feet (200 inches / 12 inches in a foot), which equals 5.0798331 metres, etc.

Thirdly, if you want to reduce or increase the left side to be a particular increment on paper (to suit a particular measuring instrument specified standard scale) then what you do to one side must be done to the other, e.g. 1/4 inch (1 inch divided by 4) = MUST equal 50 inches (200 inches divided by 4).

The conundrum and consequence of various scales specified out there in the world (particularly when converting from metric scales) is that they may not always reduce down to exactly fit the standardized scales of various manufactured standard imperial drawing instruments. The drawing instruments are designed to draw something by using a standard scale at the beginning of the plan drawing process to draw a plan from scratch, or, to determine full size distances from a plan that was already drawn to that standard scale in the first place.

One of a number of ways to deal with problems in this regard, using manual methods by scale rules and dividers, is to draw a custom scalebar to the standard scale you want to use on the plan you are referring to.

And or you could use a spreadsheet to convert your chosen measuring unit for taking measurements off the plan to what you want to measure up for your scratch build.
 
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I bought this digital caliper/ruler because you can set a scale and then the ruler will adjust electronically to support it. I especially liked you can tell it to equally divide an area at scale (I was thinking of hull and deck planking ). I came with attachment for caliper, ruller and drawing uses. https://hozodesign.com/products/neoruler-premium-combo. It was a bit pricey though, but it beat doing the math
Really nifty gizmo! Unfortunately, at about $250, I'll have to wait until TEMU is selling an exact copy for $25. :D
 
I do not find useful the mechanical scaling instruments as scale rulers for example. When I have a scaled drawing of a ship , and I want to know what is length of this or that part for my own scaled build I do as follows. Let us say my scaled model to build is 1:90. This means that my model is 90 times smaller than original. First I must know what is a scale of a drawing I have. Let us say it is 1:384. I take a metric ruler and measure the part length in millimeters off this drawing. Let us say it is 12 mm on 1:384 scale drawing. I multiply 12 mm 384 times using my hand calculator. What I get is actual length of this part in millimeters. Then I divide this value by 90 which is my scale of ship I want to build. Result is a length of part for my build in millimeters. In this case 12 times 384 divided by 90 equals 51.2 millimeters. What can be simpler than this?
When I was a kid, my machine shop teacher would have flunked me for doing that! I suppose one might get away with it for modeling purposes, but rule one in reading plans of any kind is "Do not scale from the drawing." Actually, that message or something to the same effect is often "boilerplate" on many engineering and architectural drawings. Drawings are not accurate. Paper shrinks and stretches depending upon the humidity level and the draftsman's measurements aren't always accurate to begin with. The numerical dimensions on the drawing are what must be used, not the drawn lengths.

If you are working from plans that have been drawn full size, the same rule applies, although on a model, it may not make all that much difference. Remember though, that any error in a repeated dimension is going to be cumulative. It's not that difficult to accumulate as much as a quarter inch of error in a two-foot-long model owing to the width of a printed line.

This bit of information is offered for the benefit of those who may care and in full recognition that other's mileage may vary. :D
 
True, but often model plans or even old ship plans don't have measurements on them or are illegible, and may just have a scalebar.
 
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Really nifty gizmo! Unfortunately, at about $250, I'll have to wait until TEMU is selling an exact copy for $25. :D
It was pricey, but the daughters asked me what I wanted for my birthday, since according to them I have everything. They got me the ruler. It seems to work well converting from the drawings to scale to mark the wood, but the dividing feature is cool as hell. I can see getting some use out if it. And if you find the TEMU version, please share!
 
Can someone help with this. I have a variety of scale ships, but I am not that familiar with the arcitechs ruler. I just bought one for scratch building.
For general fittings around your model this ruler is great. It shows four common scales (double sided with US and metric) and to see a close scale for a part you just see which slot it fits in at your chosen scale. I use mine almost every day.
Scale_Lumber_Gauge.jpg

Available here in Australia but not currently available on Amazon etc as far as I can see.
 
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