deadeyes and blocks

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Great posts about rigging lines, but I'm interested in the color of blocks and deadeyes, so I thought I'd post the question here. I'm on my second build, and since building my first kit I've found many aftermarket products to step up my modeling game. For my Endeavor, I'm going to experiment with some aftermarket cotton and poly thread to see what looks best. For the blocks and deadeyes I'm going to do the same, but am not sure of the color scheme. All of the deadeyes and blocks supplied by OcCre are wood color. I've seen models with darker stained and black deadeyes and blocks. If I'm going to buy some aftermarket deadeyes and blocks, is there a standard I should go for? For instance, standing line is black or dark brown, whereas running line is tan. Any advice?
Thanks,
Kramer
 
Hi

You may want to look around here



 
Great posts about rigging lines, but I'm interested in the color of blocks and deadeyes, so I thought I'd post the question here. I'm on my second build, and since building my first kit I've found many aftermarket products to step up my modeling game. For my Endeavor, I'm going to experiment with some aftermarket cotton and poly thread to see what looks best. For the blocks and deadeyes I'm going to do the same, but am not sure of the color scheme. All of the deadeyes and blocks supplied by OcCre are wood color. I've seen models with darker stained and black deadeyes and blocks. If I'm going to buy some aftermarket deadeyes and blocks, is there a standard I should go for? For instance, standing line is black or dark brown, whereas running line is tan. Any advice?
Thanks,
Kramer
You can use dark brown or blavk for standing rigging,running rgging is tan.For deadeyes I preffer black
 
Deadeyes appear black on 18th and 19th century ships because they were coated to protect them. Pine tar can appear very dark brown or black and was commonly used to protect standing rigging lines and deadeyes. I don't know if paint was used. Paint technology has come a long way, and older paint may or may not provide the same level of protection as pine tar could afford.
 
Great posts about rigging lines, but I'm interested in the color of blocks and deadeyes, so I thought I'd post the question here. I'm on my second build, and since building my first kit I've found many aftermarket products to step up my modeling game. For my Endeavor, I'm going to experiment with some aftermarket cotton and poly thread to see what looks best. For the blocks and deadeyes I'm going to do the same, but am not sure of the color scheme. All of the deadeyes and blocks supplied by OcCre are wood color. I've seen models with darker stained and black deadeyes and blocks. If I'm going to buy some aftermarket deadeyes and blocks, is there a standard I should go for? For instance, standing line is black or dark brown, whereas running line is tan. Any advice?
Thanks,
Kramer
Hello, Kramer. I have not found evidence, nor references in my collection of books, that deadeyes (in form of shave-less blocks) were painted of any kind. Historically, deadeyes are made from Lignum vitae wood. It is hard, durable, and is also the densest wood traded. It will not float and will easily sink in water. On the Janka scale of hardness, which measures the hardness of woods, lignum vitae ranks highest in the trade woods. Due to the density of the wood, belaying pins, and deadlines on sailing ships were made from lignum vitae. Such an example of deadeyes found aboard the USS Constitution.
I think the dark color mostly comes from the combination of sea and climate, due to constant exposure to the sun with splashed water in a rough sea. In the picture below, you can see light colored wood (specifically in the eyes, where tear exists). They might be once tarred as protection to avoid ovedring when expose to the sun.

1661700952755.png

A deadeye is an item used in the standing and running rigging of traditional sailing ships. It is a smallish round thick wooden (usually lignum vitae) disc with one or more holes through it, perpendicular to the plane of the disc. Single and triple-hole deadeyes are most commonly seen. The three-holed blocks were called deadeyes because the position of the three holes resemble the eye and nose sockets of a sheep's skull. Single deadeyes (or bull's eyes) are used to guide and control a line and, particularly in older vessels, to change its direction. More modern systems would use a block for this purpose but in traditional rigs with many lines to deal with, designed when blocks were relatively expensive to make, a deadeye provided an acceptable compromise. When blocks came into common use for adjusting running rigging, deadeyes continued to be used for tensioning standing rigging. Triple deadeyes are used in pairs; a line called a lanyard is run back and forth between them, through the holes, so that they function again much as a block and tackle would. This provides a mechanical advantage, pulling harder on whatever the deadeyes are attached to. Pairs of deadeyes are placed in the shrouds (the lines that hold up the mast), where they are used to create greater tension in the shrouds. To set up the lanyards used with dead-eyes, a suitable grease such as tallow is first applied to the holes. After reeving the lanyard through the deadeyes, the end is hooked to a handy purchase in the rig above, such as the throat halyard. By hauling on the halyard the lanyard in the deadeyes is drawn up taut. A small wooden wedge is knocked into the last hole, to prevent the lanyard sliding back, and the end is unhooked from the purchase and made up on the shroud above the upper deadeye. The wedge can then be removed ready for the next shroud. As an alternative the tackle on the lanyard can be made fast to the shroud well above the upper deadeye so that it compresses the deadeyes. The last part of the lanyard can then be seized to an adjacent part between the deadeyes. When this is finished the tackle is cast off and the lanyard made off.
 
Hello, Kramer. I have not found evidence, nor references in my collection of books, that deadeyes (in form of shave-less blocks) were painted of any kind. Historically, deadeyes are made from Lignum vitae wood. It is hard, durable, and is also the densest wood traded. It will not float and will easily sink in water. On the Janka scale of hardness, which measures the hardness of woods, lignum vitae ranks highest in the trade woods. Due to the density of the wood, belaying pins, and deadlines on sailing ships were made from lignum vitae. Such an example of deadeyes found aboard the USS Constitution.
I think the dark color mostly comes from the combination of sea and climate, due to constant exposure to the sun with splashed water in a rough sea. In the picture below, you can see light colored wood (specifically in the eyes, where tear exists). They might be once tarred as protection to avoid ovedring when expose to the sun.

View attachment 325837

A deadeye is an item used in the standing and running rigging of traditional sailing ships. It is a smallish round thick wooden (usually lignum vitae) disc with one or more holes through it, perpendicular to the plane of the disc. Single and triple-hole deadeyes are most commonly seen. The three-holed blocks were called deadeyes because the position of the three holes resemble the eye and nose sockets of a sheep's skull. Single deadeyes (or bull's eyes) are used to guide and control a line and, particularly in older vessels, to change its direction. More modern systems would use a block for this purpose but in traditional rigs with many lines to deal with, designed when blocks were relatively expensive to make, a deadeye provided an acceptable compromise. When blocks came into common use for adjusting running rigging, deadeyes continued to be used for tensioning standing rigging. Triple deadeyes are used in pairs; a line called a lanyard is run back and forth between them, through the holes, so that they function again much as a block and tackle would. This provides a mechanical advantage, pulling harder on whatever the deadeyes are attached to. Pairs of deadeyes are placed in the shrouds (the lines that hold up the mast), where they are used to create greater tension in the shrouds. To set up the lanyards used with dead-eyes, a suitable grease such as tallow is first applied to the holes. After reeving the lanyard through the deadeyes, the end is hooked to a handy purchase in the rig above, such as the throat halyard. By hauling on the halyard the lanyard in the deadeyes is drawn up taut. A small wooden wedge is knocked into the last hole, to prevent the lanyard sliding back, and the end is unhooked from the purchase and made up on the shroud above the upper deadeye. The wedge can then be removed ready for the next shroud. As an alternative the tackle on the lanyard can be made fast to the shroud well above the upper deadeye so that it compresses the deadeyes. The last part of the lanyard can then be seized to an adjacent part between the deadeyes. When this is finished the tackle is cast off and the lanyard made off.
Hey Jimsky, great and useful explanation! I never suspected the deadeyes were painted, and after your explanation, I can surmise that the deadeyes were dark due to residual tar from the shrouds, tallow, dirt and grime, sea, sun, and weathering. I can better visualize how sailors of the day ran the rigging. Thanks very much for the explanation.
 
Deadeyes appear black on 18th and 19th century ships because they were coated to protect them. Pine tar can appear very dark brown or black and was commonly used to protect standing rigging lines and deadeyes. I don't know if paint was used. Paint technology has come a long way, and older paint may or may not provide the same level of protection as pine tar could afford.
Hey Kurt, thanks for the explanation. Just curious, does anyone know where sailors got these materials from, like pine tar, and how they were made to help caulk and protect rigging?
 
Hey Kurt, thanks for the explanation. Just curious, does anyone know where sailors got these materials from, like pine tar, and how they were made to help caulk and protect rigging?
Pine tar is a staple material for wooden ships. You make it by taking pine tree roots and heating them up in an oxygen poor atmosphere, leaving the melted pitch and charcoal behind, and NOT burning the wood like in a campfire. Here is how:

How to make pine tar

Pine tar is stored in barrels on ship and used to preserve wood and hemp line from rotting in a salty wet environment. Hot pine tar can be soaked into rope and brushed onto wood. It's a natural sealant. These day, you can buy bottles of pine tar online, usually from veterinary suppliers, because it's used in horse's hooves when they are cracked or damaged to seal them and prevent infection. I use pine tar diluted with kerosene or some other solvent to stain the sailcloth for model ships because it's not acidic like tea when used as a stain. You buy a whole gallon of it on Amazon.com:

Pine tar on Amazon
 
Pine tar is a staple material for wooden ships. You make it by taking pine tree roots and heating them up in an oxygen poor atmosphere, leaving the melted pitch and charcoal behind, and NOT burning the wood like in a campfire. Here is how:

How to make pine tar

Pine tar is stored in barrels on ship and used to preserve wood and hemp line from rotting in a salty wet environment. Hot pine tar can be soaked into rope and brushed onto wood. It's a natural sealant. These day, you can buy bottles of pine tar online, usually from veterinary suppliers, because it's used in horse's hooves when they are cracked or damaged to seal them and prevent infection. I use pine tar diluted with kerosene or some other solvent to stain the sailcloth for model ships because it's not acidic like tea when used as a stain. You buy a whole gallon of it on Amazon.com:

Pine tar on Amazon
Thanks very much! And a great video.
 
Pine tar when first applied is not black (like coal tar or asphalt), it is reddish-brown. It collects dirt and oxidizes to black over time. It is a convention of shipmodels to make standing rigging black, but it achieves this color on real ships after a couple of seasons of use. Tar on the standing rigging also tends to run down onto deadeyes, and they turn black as well.

There was a tradition of painting blocks by the 19th century, if not before, usually in a light color that was coordinated with the paint on the spars (white spars get white blocks). I have no idea how far back this tradition goes, and whether it is global or just common in certain areas, but it was a practice in the US and northern European merchant ships.

Fred
 
Thanks, Fred. Good info. I'll have to do some research on the Endurance and see what the deadeyes and standing rigging looked like. I know there are tons of pictures out there.
 
Hi Kramer, I am also building the Endeavour by Occre and also had the same dilemma with regard to the deadeye colours. After reading a number of posts I opted for painting them black. It also meant that the brass wire used to secure the deadeye was black which I suspect is more authentic.
1662362210387.jpeg
 
Hi Kramer, I am also building the Endeavour by Occre and also had the same dilemma with regard to the deadeye colours. After reading a number of posts I opted for painting them black. It also meant that the brass wire used to secure the deadeye was black which I suspect is more authentic.
View attachment 326833
Thanks, Keith. I like the black. Did you paint the brass or blacken it? And did you paint or blacken any of the other metal pieces?
 
Hi Kramer, I just painted the brass black. Similarly with other pieces such as the canons etc. I just painted. The one downside is that it is easy to scratch off the paint and touching up is required but not a big issue.
 
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