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Display bases - how wide?

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Matt C

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Apr 18, 2025
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My Chinese Junk build is almost complete, and I'm shopping for display bases.


It seems like there are generally two philosophies - wide (about 120% hull length) or narrow (about 70% hull length). And maybe there's a hybrid approach, where people do both, the narrow on top of the wide.

Are there traditional standards with display bases? My build is a little on the elaborate side. I took a lot of liberties beyond Amati's very basic kit. So I want to balance this with a conservative display.

My tip-to-tip (not including the aft flag) my ship is 15".

20250511_203940.jpgI was thinking of cherry wood with a light bevel and scalloped corners.
 
My display base is the bottom of the glass case that I build for the model to live in. I turn brass pedestals that go between the model’s keel and the base.

Roger
 
Since your model does not have spars that stick out to the sides past the outer edge of the hull, your base can be thinner than it can on a square rigger that has the spars mounted perpendicular to the centerline of the hull. :) However, wider means more stability. :)
 
Matt C said:
My Chinese Junk build is almost complete, and I'm shopping for display bases.


It seems like there are generally two philosophies - wide (about 120% hull length) or narrow (about 70% hull length). And maybe there's a hybrid approach, where people do both, the narrow on top of the wide.

Are there traditional standards with display bases? My build is a little on the elaborate side. I took a lot of liberties beyond Amati's very basic kit. So I want to balance this with a conservative display.

My tip-to-tip (not including the aft flag) my ship is 15".

View attachment 519403I was thinking of cherry wood with a light bevel and scalloped corners.
Click to expand...
Looks great…
 
Maybe consider a base loosely covered in a Chinese silk scarf? The folds of the cloth to represent the waves?
 
Matt C said:
wide (about 120% hull length) or narrow (about 70% hull length).
Click to expand...
I am confused by your measurements. A base with a 120% width of the hull would be huge, even 70%. The length of the base does not have to be the full length of the model. Some smaller models look very respectable on a shorten base. Concerning the width of your base board, I would suggest you take that cutting mat in the background, lay it flat and place your model centered on it. Next stand above it and look down to determine what would be a good width for the base. Imagine you are placing the model in a plexiglass case, how much clearance would be appropriate. Just a suggestion.
 
I would suggest a base that is slightly larger than the widest dimensions.

Then order a display case to cover and protect your beautiful work from dust and a) prying fingers, b) flying balls. c) cats/etc.

Before I encased one of mine, it suffered from B and C. Now I have grandkids and hope to protect from A.

This one is glass.

Ship Display Case and Brackets.jpg
This one for a cross section of Bonhomme Richard is plexiglass (much cheaper and lighter).
View attachment 20250410_174003.mp4
 
Base or case? The base need not be too large as explained above by Yankee Clipper. If you are talking about a case, an inch clearance for the glass or plexiglass all around is sufficient. Make sure there is at least a few small holes in the case if plexiglass or between the frame or base and sides if glass is used to let air into the case. You can put some steel wool into the holes to keep out the spiders and such. And do not display it where direct sunlight can wreak havoc on your model in just a short time.

The base can be a simple piece of wood or something a little fanciful like a burl finish which is really easy to make on a piece of plywood or MDF.

Allan

1747134493374.jpeg
 
My display bases are generally of the form shown below. The supports are cut and shaped to provide a good fit to the hull. I always use long, thin brass screws to screw though the base and into the keel so that I can pick up the model either by the base or the hull without them parting company. The width is a bit arbitrary but usually a bit more than the hull width. Ship models have a fairly low centre of gravity so stability is rarely a problem. I have never used the flimsy, plywood bases provided by kit manufacturers.Display Base.jpg
 
Matt C said:
My Chinese Junk build is almost complete, and I'm shopping for display bases.


It seems like there are generally two philosophies - wide (about 120% hull length) or narrow (about 70% hull length). And maybe there's a hybrid approach, where people do both, the narrow on top of the wide.

Are there traditional standards with display bases? My build is a little on the elaborate side. I took a lot of liberties beyond Amati's very basic kit. So I want to balance this with a conservative display.

My tip-to-tip (not including the aft flag) my ship is 15".

View attachment 519403I was thinking of cherry wood with a light bevel and scalloped corners.
Click to expand...
Great looking build. How did you get the dragon image on the sail?
 
Good afternoon, colleagues! I use a compressor with a pressure regulator for cleaning my fleet at home. The oldest ship is 17 years old, nothing is flying away / everything is glued tightly/ . There's a brush to help. I turn off the dehumidifier, the flow is wet- it turns out like a mini sink.

20190720_094451.jpg
 
It's all about the aesthetics.

Grab 4 bits of wood and tie them together the size of the case, and prop them up in front so you can look through the frame and judge how much white space is needed to show off to best effect. Do that for side and end view.

Now look at the space you have to show it, and (probably) compromise to make it fit the shelf, or item of furniture, or window sill.

When you have the case dimension, then you can consider how best to provide a mount for the ship. Something that looks like water? A 'shipyard' scene with blocks and props, or a museum scene with minimal (brass) pillars into the keel (as long as the keel will take the strain)

and apart from all that - consider how much resource in time and pennies went into it and don't skimp the presentation / protection.


Just my two pence.

Jim
 
Hoy mate, I'm a nautical museum curator. I have found over the decades of building, my opinion is; What ever the length of the model, make the base about 3 inches longer on the bow and 3 inches on the stern. When the ship is centered with 3 extra inches fore and aft if it's a Motor Vessel or sailing ship.
What ever the width of a sailing ship, make the base a minimum of 2 inches wider on port and starboard. Now however and wherever you place the model you know for a fact where the boundary is so nothing touches the model. The perimeter of the model is safe. (Excluding the height of the model.
If it's a motor vessel same thing on the length and a few inches clearance on port and starboard. The base IS the boundary to protect the ship.
 
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