Do I need a display case or not?

[Roger Pellett]

All of the glass cases that I have made feature single strength glass set in wood frames grooved with a saw blade that cuts a 1/8” groove. I have never cut vent holes in the case. The cases seem to have adequate ventilation and my models don’t get dusty.

Roger

 

[paul ron]

one concern mentioned was gasses being released in an air tight case. im guessing that would be from ca glue. its a real concern in any case. it takes a long time for ca to stop releasing gasses. i once repaired plastic using ca, and noticed a white residue id have to wipe everyday. that went on for months till i finally got rid of it for a new part.

a case is nice. it does keep the project cleaner and does keep probing fingers off the model. i barely have room for my ships and cases would just make my space problem worse. im cursed with spring cleaning and as my models get older, they eventually became brittle. now rerigging is the new task at hand.

 

[RussF]

one concern mentioned was gasses being released in an air tight case. im guessing that would be from ca glue. its a real concern in any case. it takes a long time for ca to stop releasing gasses. i once repaired plastic using ca, and noticed a white residue id have to wipe everyday. that went on for months till i finally got rid of it for a new part.

a case is nice. it does keep the project cleaner and does keep probing fingers off the model. i barely have room for my ships and cases would just make my space problem worse. im cursed with spring cleaning and as my models get older, they eventually became brittle. now rerigging is the new task at hand.

I'm not sure what you had going on, but I doubt it was CA outgassing. CA typically stops outgassing after 24 hours. Extremely thick applications could possibly take up to a week at max, but after that it is done.

 

[AndyA]

Glass is best for protecting models.
This is HMS Swift, an American-built brig of 1778. Plans are in The Search for Speed Under Sail 1700-1855 by Howard Chapelle.
Fair winds!

 

[DAWarden-(Jaager)]

im guessing that would be from ca glue. its a real concern in any case. it takes a long time for ca to stop releasing gasses. i once repaired plastic using ca, and noticed a white residue id have to wipe everyday.

I may be projecting, but I do not think that the majority of history and accuracy based modelers use much if any CA. This is probably the customer base for cases. My guess is that the CA in your example may have been reacting with the plastic or reactivated the polymerization reaction in the plastic and what you were wiping was plastic that was polymerized to embrittlement. It was turning to powder. This is probably the ultimate fate of every plastic. Some polymers will react over a short time period and some are too damn slow at it - like whatever is the stuff in the floating islands in Terra's oceans now. My money is on the plastic used for 3D printing being a polymer with a short half-life before becoming a pile of powder.

The main gas causing a problem in a closed air tight case is acetic acid. PVA glue is a suspension of dilute acetic acid. Its pH approaches that of vinegar =5% HOAc. Back when fittings were cast lead, these lead components became lead acetate - a white powder almost while you watched if the chamber was sealed. I have read that various species of wood also release acetic acid over time. No wood species that I have handled smells like vinegar, so the amount of acetic acid released would probably be low. In a closed chamber and over a long time the acetic acid concentration could become significant.

I just had another thought: the now popular poly rigging line is a plastic polymer. I wonder what is its half-life? I wonder if acetic acid vapor and UV light will accelerate it continuing its polymerization reaction to embrittlement? Given the average age of modelers, I doubt that it matters.

 

[paul ron]

interesting jaager... perhaps the ca everyone uses in here are a specialized ca?

i found a few articles on the white powdering i experianced. ive never used ca on my ships but its a fantastic glue for repairing broken ceramics n alike. i have been using titebond yellow wood glues.

How do I prevent white powdery residue when using instant adhesives?

Frosting, Blooming, Chlorosis – The unattractive white stuff that can occur when using cyanoacrylates (instant adhesives.)

permabond.com

Understanding Chlorosis in Products that Utilize CA Monomers

UV-curable cyanoacrylates (UVCAs) and Cyanoacrylates (CAs) exhibit fast curing and excellent bond strength but can encounter challenges, such as chlorosis, during application.

dymax.com

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/z6hexw/white_residue_from_super_glue_any_advice

 

[Tim Green]

I converted two spaces in a book shelf into ship displays. Removed a couple of shelves, cut pieces of acrylic to go over the openings, glued brass hinges to the acrylic and screwed em into the shelf above the boat - and thus made two dust proof display cases out of some oaken bookcase shelves. However, I've got another model in the yard, that's not gonna fit into anything I have on hand that I might convert into a ship display case - so - this thread's been interesting and useful.

 

[Allegheny]

Not sure why some folks are using steel wool and the like. Simply get an air filter similar to what looks like a sponge (for small machines, vacuums, lawnmowers etc) and cut it to the shape and size you need. Those things are designed to keep dust out and allow airflow in. They are plentiful and inexpensive.

 

[seadeep]

I currently have none of my completed models in a case... wish I did, but money, space, etc. etc. As a result, I'm left with an annual meticulous cleaning process involving soft artist brushes, a tiny hand vacuum (meant for cleaning PC keyboards and the like)... to remove the lord knows how many bunches of cobwebs and dust that accumulate over time. Where the heck to all these spiders come from? lol

The one thing I was always concerned about if I were approach this, aside from ventilation, is actual location. I've always tried to ensure my wooden models are not exposed to direct sunlight. Both as a concern for fading of flags and such, but more importantly, if encased, would not a glass case located in a sunny area work like a greenhouse and literally cook the model by excessive heat build up?

 

[Derek Payne]

If for no other reason than "Keeping Dust" off the model, especially if it is a fully rigged sailing vessel. then a case would be essential.
I dread the though of cleaing dust from a rigged sailing ship.
I make my cases from a base of MDF covered with sheets of walnut wood, then French polished.
The frame for the case comes as a square setion wood section with a groove down the middle of one side, Sanded and varnished.
( Section available for Cornwall Model Boats)
The clear panels are from 2mm thick acrylic sheet supplied cut to size. (suppliers available online).

 

[MCPWilk]

All my model boats are mounted on pedestals over a mirror and in a case. Dust over the years is kind neither to rigging nor decks.

Mike

 

[Signet]

I really want make this style case on top of long, Queen Anne style legs. Can thin plexiglass bend enough to make the front/rear panels?
View attachment 582259

1/8" Plexiglas will easily bend to fit that configuration. And the bending will also allow you to use thinner Plexi, as the bend makes it stronger. LOVE the case!

 

[MikeC]

There's a fix for that.


View attachment 582246
View attachment 582249

Three cheers for bronze wool! Been using it for years.

 

[MikeC]

I don’t have any of my models cased. I like using them as sculptures. But I live in a fairly dust free (Houston) environment. Electric heat and a/c. But then I don’t have a model nearly as large as yours. Good luck with your choice.

 

[Signet]

A book on model ship building I read many, many years ago (meaning I've forgotten both the book title and author) listed the:

THREE COMMANDMENTS OF MODEL SHIP BUILDING

1. Thou shalt not let dust fall upon it.
2. Thou shalt not let dust fall upon it.
3. Thou shalt not let dust fall upon it.

Having violated those commandments many, many years ago, I can attest that all those models are indeed in the dust bin, along with all the dust they accumulated.

IMHO, when building a ship model kit, one should assume that the requisite case will cost more than the kit cost, and that your significant other, while praising your work and while being amazed at the tiny detail involved, will somehow not find a single place to display your model (and case) in your house other than your den/mancave/workshop/closet. I think many of us ignore those facts when building a model. I know I do.

 

[Signet]

Many ship model kit builders will explain that it is the building their models that they enjoy and they really have little interest in keeping them once they are completed. They often give their completed models to friends and other worthy recipients of their generosity shortly after completion (and before the dust collecting on them becomes too unsightly.) In this fashion, they avoid the need to worry about casing their models.

Those friends and other worthy recipients might not be so friendly, or be unhappy they are worthy, when they face the dreaded "Case or Dust" decision.

 

[Novascotian]

Reading these submissions, I would like to add that if you have a sealed case, the gasses that are emitted will also corrode most metal fittings unless they have been primed and coated. A form of led rot appears. One solution is to bore small breathing holes at the base of the plexiglass or if glass panels are used, have a loose fit of the base so air can get inside.

 

[DAWarden-(Jaager)]

have a loose fit of the base so air can get inside.

Or place series of short pieces of wood veneer in the bottom channel for the glazing to sit on.

I had a thought: if the model is on a shelf and the shelf is high up or higher up like in a stairway, only one face of the case needs to be clear glazing and the wall can be the back face. Thin ply can be the sides and top - LED strips battery powered?

 

[Signet]

I had a thought: if the model is on a shelf and the shelf is high up or higher up like in a stairway, only one face of the case needs to be clear glazing and the wall can be the back face. Thin ply can be the sides and top - LED strips battery powered?

Or in my case, glazing was only necessary on 3 sides with my HMS Victory cross-section:

And it's far from air-tight, so no holes with steel wool are necessary!

 

[RPLEDM]

My model ships are in open front dark stained wood cabinets with no front covers, all screwed to the basement shop walls. Another two are stored on the Model Railway layout having the same 1/48 scale. I have no free floating dust in my workshop. It all sticks to the oil on the machinery ... the lathe, the milling machine, the stored metal supplies, the tools ... all open to the free floating oil in the air which adheres to every surface in the workshop including the ships ... Since I refuse to get rid of this lot (including all my brass O Scale locomotives) before I die, my daughters have advised everyone on my contact list that there will be an Oklahoma Unassigned Lands Stampede type giveaway the month after my passing. Standby One, that date is fast approaching, as fast as the last 80 years have gone. I think they have a dumpster already rented for what doesn't go ...