• Win a Free Custom Engraved Brass Coin!!!
    As a way to introduce our brass coins to the community, we will raffle off a free coin during the month of August. Follow link ABOVE for instructions for entering.

Drill Press for modelers

Joined
May 30, 2024
Messages
143
Points
113

Location
Geelong, Australia
I finished my first model ship build, on a desk in the TV area, with SWMBO (She Who Must Be Obeyed) patiently putting up with me crawling around on all fours looking for small dropped pieces, and small tools running while she was watching her favourite TV programs. One tool which she did not appreciate was the Dremel, with its high pitched whine.
While considering my next build, I spotted advertisements for a tiny watch repairers drill press. And I bought one. $AUD98 from AliExpress. Including postage. (see photos).
I must say that I am delighted with the Chinese made tool. It is beautifully finished, feels tight, and it is very quiet. It IS tiny. The power supply plugs in on the side of the drill which is a bit inconvenient but not a deal breaker. The power supply also houses the on-off switch and speed control.
I chose the model with a non adjustable 3.175mm (1/8") chuck, which accepts only drill bits with a 3.175mm shank. Fortunately they are available in tungsten carbide sets very inexpensively ($AUD5 per set), and they fit snugly in the chuck. My previous experience with small cheap 3 jaw chucks showed that they are not particularly accurate, and it is easy to misfit tiny drill bits into the gap between adjacent jaws rather than centrally. The ER collet model should be OK, but extra cost for that model, plus the cost of the collets, plus the fiddle of changing the collets when changing the drill bit size were factors in my choice.
So, at this time I have drilled a few experimental holes, and it seems very good. I plan to fit an X-Y axis movement table, and will probably fit a larger securing knob for height setting. Those tiny carbide drill bits a very easy to snap, but with the work securely held, and the drill press ensuring no lateral movements, breakages should be rare.
I think that this tool will be popular with model ship builders.

IMG_6229.jpg

IMG_6230.jpg

IMG_6231.jpg
 
I have a theory about using carbide drills. Usual metalworking procedure is to center punch holes before drilling. Carbide drills are so brittle that even the slightest flex will cause them to snap. Center punching leaves a conical depression in the area to be drilled. An ordinary HSS drill will “find” the exact center of this cone and will drill the hole without breaking. A carbide drill not exactly positioned over the center of punch mark will also try to find the exact punch mark but lacks the ductility to do so and shatters.

Solution: Avoid center punching before drilling.

Roger
 
How is the torque? Able to handle non-ferrous metals and polycarbonate? I have a Proxxon vertical mill which, being direct drive, is fine for high-speed, low-torque milling, but is a poor substitute for a proper drill press. I haven’t had room to squeeze another power tool into my small shop, but this might be small enough
 
And even then the drill will try to go a bit sideways due to wood grain irregularities and carbide drill will snap.
The drill bit in the photos is 0.8mm dia, carbide, repeatedly drilling about 12mm into an Australian hardwood, without breaking. I consider that there will be less lateral tendency to flex in a drill press than a hand held drill.
 
How is the torque? Able to handle non-ferrous metals and polycarbonate? I have a Proxxon vertical mill which, being direct drive, is fine for high-speed, low-torque milling, but is a poor substitute for a proper drill press. I haven’t had room to squeeze another power tool into my small shop, but this might be small enough
For such a physically small motor there is a surprising amount of torque using a finger-thumb squeeze test while it is running. The advertisement video shows it drilling clockmakers brass wheels for re-shafting quite easily. I doubt that it would be satisfactory in ferrous metals. I will try it on polycarbonate and report later.
 
The drill bit in the photos is 0.8mm dia, carbide, repeatedly drilling about 12mm into an Australian hardwood, without breaking.
Thanks. 0.8 mm is still pretty sturdy drill. I had broken all my 0.4 and 0.5 mm carbide drills with 3.17mm shanks. Could you please try 0.4 mm?
 
By the way for drilling 0.3 to 1.0 mm holes in wood I switched entirely to end mill bits with 1/8” shanks. They produce very clean holes, do not break as do not require prior material marking. This is only for a drill press. For hand drilling - only HSS drills.
 
Last edited:
I have a theory about using carbide drills. Usual metalworking procedure is to center punch holes before drilling. Carbide drills are so brittle that even the slightest flex will cause them to snap. Center punching leaves a conical depression in the area to be drilled. An ordinary HSS drill will “find” the exact center of this cone and will drill the hole without breaking. A carbide drill not exactly positioned over the center of punch mark will also try to find the exact punch mark but lacks the ductility to do so and shatters.

Solution: Avoid center punching before drilling.

Roger
Amen to that. I bought a set of bits that included two sets in a plastic case show in your photo. I have only 3 or 4 left as they snapped. I have gone back to small HSS bits. I use a Dremel on a drill press stand with an X/Y table. This arrangement works very well for me.
 
These carbide drills (smaller then 1 mm.) are official circuit boards drills and need a very high speed. They specially designed for that purpose. And it's not needed to centre punch before. Just start slowly pressing the drill through your soft metal or wood. When you go to quick through wood it will follow the grain.
The thicker carbide drills (>1,1 mm.) look more like a conventional drill and are use on smaller speed and need a centre punch.

The tool looks good. I seen it a while ago on Aliexpress, there are different versions for sale.
 
John, I had one of those on my Ama$0n wish list at Christmas, but the one I had selected was out of stock when the Admiral went to order it. She didn't want to risk selecting a different one (I tend to be picky sometimes ROTF ). I ended up buying one of the Arrowmax micro drills with the drill press stand. While I really like it for getting into tight spaces as a hand-held unit, the drill press frame ... well ...leaves a lot to be desired. Not only does it sometimes tend to bind, but there is quite a bit of sideways slop. While drilling the treenail holes in the deck boards of my Oseberg, even with a guide fence, I had a heck of a time getting them a consistent distance from the edge of the board.

How tight and smoothly operating is the frame on your model? I may have to revisit it.
 
Whenever possible I take work to one of two stationary drill presses in my shop; an ancient all cast iron bench top unit or the sensitive drilling tool on my Sherline mill. Both are orders of magnitude more rigid than the rotary tool drill stands. Like others though, I have gone through a whole box of these carbide drill bitts without accomplishing much.I now use quality HSS bitts for my drilling needs.

I am reminded of an old story about a shipyard trying to weld plating for an Aluminum hulled vessel. After repeated failures, they put their best welder in a clean room and told him to weld to plates together while they watched. The welder flipped his head shield down and raked the weld groove with his (dirty) gloved hand to sweep (imaginary) debris. Problem solved!

These carbide drill bitts obviously work for someone, but like the shipyard they demand new techniques, and abandonment of some old practices. The circuit board industry is obviously highly automated so have worked out jigs, fixtures and repeatable drilling procedures. These don’t exist in ordinary model shops.

These bitts need to be exactly square to the work surface to avoid side forces that they are not intended to withstand. I’ve had little better luck with carbide end mills. Since these don’t have a drill point they should be able to “make” their own square surface before actually drilling the hole. This would seem to imply that the initial feed rate should be slow enough to allow the bit to mill this surface.

I don’t have much need to drill holes in the soft woods provided in most model kits so these carbide drills might be ok for this.

Roger
 
Back
Top