Parts review Drydock Models and Parts - Photo Etched parts: Part 2/2

[Jimsky]

Welcome back my friends to the show that never ends. We're so glad you could attend, come inside, come inside.
Ralph Waldo Emerson

I am glad you turned your eyes to the next review, folks. Today, I will review the last batch of PE parts I have in my possession from our friend DryDock Models and Parts. And those PE parts are eye pins and hooks. Without further a do... let's begin. BTW, if you came here accidentally, I have the entire set of reviews about DryDock parts (below)

Aftermarket kits and parts review

Review of available Aftermarket parts and mini kits

shipsofscale.com

Like most PE parts from DeyDock, the eye pins and hooks are available in 4 scales: 1:48, 1:64, 1: 72, and 1:96. While they are designed for specific scales, you can certainly use them in any scale where they fit in the scale size. Hooks come in a plastic bag (see image above), and contain a single mini-fret with 26 total pieces in a set. BTW, it is priced at 25 pieces, but the fret has 26, I guess you have 1 free (except for the 1:96 scale, the total count in the set is 24)!

Sample fret for 1:48 scale hooks



Sample fret for 1:64 scale



sample fret for 1:72 scale



... the smallest scale is 1:96




Here is the macro image with the relative size comparison from left to right: 1:48, 1:64, 1:72, and 1:96



Let's see the eye pins. They also come in a single mimi-fret with a total of 26 pieces in the set for scales 1:48, 1:64, and 1:72. For the smallest scale: 1:96, the total set count is 24.

Scale 1:48


Scale 1:64



Scale 1:72





relative size comparison



Conclusion:
There is a nice selection of hooks and eye pins (eyebolts imitation) for most of the rigging work. They are uniform and will save many hours to make those from scratch. While they are made with the scales in mind, you can use them interchangeably as long as the size for the given part permits. It is hard to imagine the use of hooks and eyebolts of the same size for all the rigging work. One drawback, they are a bit thin, IMHO, but I have given my feedback to the manufacturer and they assure me that the v2 of the products will be a bit thicker, that's good to know!
I will show those PE parts 'in action' in my next review. I will use those parts to rig the guns from DryDock, It will be Part 3 (the last) of the Aftermarket naval gun parts to upscale.



I hope the review was informative and somewhat will help before you make a decision. I would love to hear from you and share your opinion or even experience if you have purchased those products already, and use them to upscale your models. Thank you for stopping by, will talk to you soon...

Here is the direct link for those parts. (scroll to the middle)

Photo-Etch Parts and Accessories

Copper Plates Gun Carriage Detailing Set Rudder Hinges Sweep Port Hinges Hooks Eye Pins Chain Plates

drydockmodelsandparts.com

 

[Kurt Konrath]

Jim, in the photos above it looks like you have twisted the eye of hooks 90 from the hook?

Thanks for these updates on the great parts.

Have you done a clinic on best way to get good blackening on these PE parts, I don't have great success yet and need to learn more.

 

[Jimsky]

Jim, in the photos above it looks like you have twisted the eye of hooks 90 from the hook?

Thanks for these updates on the great parts.

Have you done a clinic on best way to get good blackening on these PE parts, I don't have great success yet and need to learn more.

Thank you for the feedback, Kurt. You have a good eyesight. The one 'twisted' part was already damaged with no way to straighten

Yes, I don't know if the way I do blackening is the 'best' way, but it works for me. I have success blackening large parts, like gun barrels, etc. and the key to success is the super-clean surface. The blackening process is the chemical reaction, between the surface and the blackening solution. Therefore the surface should be extremely clean from oxidation and grease. I usually clean the surface (where permitted) with light abrasive attachments in the rotary tool. The abrasiveness is enough to clean oxidation and doesn't destroy the relief. For the smallest parts, like hooks or eye pins the oxidation is removed with 1000 grit sandpaper while parts are still in the fret. Then, I give a bath in soapy water to remove grease and fingerprints. Thoroughly rinse parts in warm water to remove soap.
I usually dilute the blackening part with 1:6/7 (one part of the solution and the 6 or seven parts of water). But this is in no way a 'Golden formula' as the brass is made from various alloys and as a result, might require different proportions. The idea is to blacken using the slow, less aggressive process. It may take 20~30 minutes to blacken. I also remove some dust (residue) with a soft brush, from time to time. The thicker the surface, the more time it will require to blacken. Once blackened, rinse with cold water and let it dry.

Hope this will help,

 

[Roger Pellett]

I keep one of those 1oz screw top jars that come with air brushes on my my workbench. It is filled with lacquer thinner. I dunk small parts to be blackened or soldered in the jar and fish it out with tweezers. The parts come out sufficiently clean for either process.

Roger

 

[GGibson]

I keep one of those 1oz screw top jars that come with air brushes on my my workbench. It is filled with lacquer thinner. I dunk small parts to be blackened or soldered in the jar and fish it out with tweezers. The parts come out sufficiently clean for either process.

Roger

I have been placing to-be-blackened parts in a small bath of white distilled vinegar for 4-5 minutes. Seems to work well for me. May try lacquer thinner, as well, though.

 

[GGibson]

Jim, in the photos above it looks like you have twisted the eye of hooks 90 from the hook?

Thanks for these updates on the great parts.

Seems like sometimes you would want to or need to twist the eye 90 degrees from the hook, depending on what you are hooking to, though, right? I know I have done that at times with my home-made hooks using eye pins.

I do like the look, though, of these Drydock hooks! Will look at these when I get to needing more! Thanks!

 

[Jimsky]

I keep one of those 1oz screw top jars that come with air brushes on my my workbench. It is filled with lacquer thinner. I dunk small parts to be blackened or soldered in the jar and fish it out with tweezers. The parts come out sufficiently clean for either process.

Roger

Good to know, Roger. I will try it, for sure.

 

[RogerD]

Thanks for your review Jim. I purchased 1/64 hooks from Dry Dock Models and Parts a few weeks ago and will be using them soon. I agree different size hooks for the various parts of rigging work makes sense.

As for blackening I use a solution from Micro Engineering, which is mostly sold for model railroaders. I gave a brief write up in a post back in October 2021 and have attached the link below if it helps others. I clean the brass work with isopropyl alcohol, followed by distilled water, then soak completely in the mixed ME solution.. after that I dunk in distilled water again, to stop the chemical process, buff with a soft cloth and, if necessary, repeat the process to darken further.

Metal fittings colors

This may not be the right place for this, but my question is about 'blackening' brass parts. Since 'Blacken-it' no longer seems to be available what other options are there?? I'm a newbie beginning with the Amati gunboat 'Arrow' model kit and the Model Shipways gunboat 'Philadelphia'. I have...

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