Edge bending

[Marty Olsen]

I've been building model ships for a long time, but I've always had problems edge bending. I've bought tools that score the wood, but they didn't work. I have a form to flat-bend a plank, but it doesn't work for edge bending. I soak the wood until it's flexible and still don't get an acceptable bend. What's your advise? Thanks, Marty

 

[Don Case]

I use a clothes iron. My wife's old one. Set on "cotton". Dip the plank in water, lay it flat on clean plywood, press with the iron for a a few seconds and the pull the plank out(still holding the iron down hard) while bending it sideways. You can also lift the plank to bend it in two directions. One caveat, I have mostly used this on Hazel wood and don't know how well it will work on other woods.

 

[Paul D Hall]

I usually have no trouble bending planks after soaking them in hot water for at least 1 hour. I use a commercial heated plank bender or the point of a small soldering iron, both of which I clamp in a vice thus freeing both my hands.. I have heard that socking the planks in a mild solution of ammonia aids the process. Where I have had problems is pending the plank along its narrow dimension. This is a problem I encounter in planking a transom that has a severe curve to its design.

For instance, consider planking a transom with 0.5mm by 3mm strips. If you are bending with the 3mm dimension, the job is easy and doesn't require any tool other than your fingers and the plank need not be wet. Bending in the other direction is almost impossible without puckering or splitting the strip. One could, of course, plank with a 3 x 3mm strip and then sand away 2.5mm. I have tried to use paper but the results for me were unacceptable. Finally, I have cut the required timbers out of thin stock, with the bottom of each cut becoming the top of the nest. This seems to work best for me but is time consuming, Maybe there better ideas out there?

 

[Winter]

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[maltbyguy]

I know Chuck on another well known modeling forum uses edge bending on his builds
Maybe there is a how to do section for it
I use

 

[Quint]

That's a Sealing Iron, used for sealing RC airplane covering. I built and flew RC planes for many years, great tool. However, never thought to use it for ship modeling!

 

[maltbyguy]

That's a Sealing Iron, used for sealing RC airplane covering. I built and flew RC planes for many years, great tool. However, never thought to use it for ship modeling!

I find it great to use with pva glue it dries nearly as quick as CA and a lot better for my CA allergy

 

[paul ron]

the tacking iron (i use for dry mounting photos) works very nicely. i recently bought a mini iron for my grand daughter for sewing... flaten seams before running it on the sewing machine.
but i can see the mini iron also being very handy for sails n wood bending. cant beat the price either...

Amazon.com

oh you also have plenty of colors to chose from... we got pink.

 

[AllanKP69]

The following four part video is a great source on how to edge bend and do great planking in general.

I gave up on the hot iron a few years ago and went to a hot air gun with a scaled dial temperature control from the local hardware store. When clamping wet wood around a form to get the proper bend, the clamps cover some of the wood but the hot air gun gets into every nook and cranny. One example of many brands is below. I started out using the Admirals hair dryer until she caught me. The hair dryer works, but more heat is better in softening the lignin. Moist lignin in wood can soften at around 100°C, allowing the lignin molecules to deform within the cell walls. The softening temperature of lignin can range from 127–193°C, but it can be as low as 54°C. Experiment for each species of wood and be careful, my gun gets hot enough to burn the wood so I start at about 100 degrees and go from there.
Allan

 

[maltbyguy]

The following four part video is a great source on how to edge bend and do great planking in general.

I gave up on the hot iron a few years ago and went to a hot air gun with a scaled dial temperature control from the local hardware store. When clamping wet wood around a form to get the proper bend, the clamps cover some of the wood but the hot air gun gets into every nook and cranny. One example of many brands is below. I started out using the Admirals hair dryer until she caught me. The hair dryer works, but more heat is better in softening the lignin. Moist lignin in wood can soften at around 100°C, allowing the lignin molecules to deform within the cell walls. The softening temperature of lignin can range from 127–193°C, but it can be as low as 54°C. Experiment for each species of wood and be careful, my gun gets hot enough to burn the wood so I start at about 100 degrees and go from there.
Allan
View attachment 452578

I knew that I had seen a video but couldn't find it again
I used this system for my Syren build and it works well

 

[AndyA]

Like so many things, it depends. If you're trying for an authentic lay of the planks because they will show on the finished model, you must either edge set them (per methods described above) or spile them. To spile planks you cut them to the curves that fit without edge setting. Below is an illustration of the process. If, however, you're only trying to enclose the hull and the planking pattern won't show on the completed model, you can use narrower planks (square cross-section works well) in places on the hull where the planks need to bend in two directions. Some full-size vessels (mostly small craft) are constructed completely of square planks, known as strip planking. Fair winds!

 

[Landscaper]

I use an old hair straightens, just wet the wood for a while pinch it between the straightens and pull in any direction. It works wonders for me on
planking. I have most of the bender on the market but this one works the best.

 

[AllanKP69]

I use an old hair straightens, just wet the wood for a while pinch it between the straightens

In your experience have you found this to work on wood such as European boxwood, pear and other dense species? The pinching is worrisome to me if it leaves dents in the wood. Thanks
Allan

 

[Landscaper]

There is no damage or dents to the wood as the blades are about an 1" or 25mm wide and smooth, only needs light pressure to apply the heat to both sides at the same time. I tried it boxwood and pear with no problems. Dense species I would say need a longer dip in the water .
Its a bit of trial and error but it dose work for me.

 

[polydoc]

I've been building model ships for a long time, but I've always had problems edge bending. I've bought tools that score the wood, but they didn't work. I have a form to flat-bend a plank, but it doesn't work for edge bending. I soak the wood until it's flexible and still don't get an acceptable bend. What's your advise? Thanks, Marty

If none of the recommended methods work for you, try prebending strips of narrower width around a former to give the same curve for each and laminate them by gluing then together and clamping. When well done, the seams don't show.

 

[Bob Ellis]

I've been building model ships for a long time, but I've always had problems edge bending. I've bought tools that score the wood, but they didn't work. I have a form to flat-bend a plank, but it doesn't work for edge bending. I soak the wood until it's flexible and still don't get an acceptable bend. What's your advise? Thanks, Marty

I use a simple jig made from 2mm ply, soak and clamp. Alternatively, soak and clamp the plank into it's intended position on the hull, it will set with all bends required plus the twist. The better the timber, the better the result. Boxwood, pear, cherry. It's near impossible with walnut veneer (a poor timber) Use at least 1mm.

 

[Rob444]

I find it great to use with pva glue it dries nearly as quick as CA and a lot better for my CA allergy

If you have a CA allergy, I suggest you try using UV setting cement like bondic. I use it often instead of CA. The beauty of it is it is not sticky but will set instantly when exposed to UV light. If you like it you can get UV flashlights and large amounts of UV setting glue for under $15 a piece on Amazon.

 

[maltbyguy]

If you have a CA allergy, I suggest you try using UV setting cement like bondic. I use it often instead of CA. The beauty of it is it is not sticky but will set instantly when exposed to UV light. If you like it you can get UV flashlights and large amounts of UV setting glue for under $15 a piece on Amazon.

Thanks I will give it a try
I have found Bob Smith odorless doesn't cause as much problem

 

[3L120]

If you have a CA allergy, I suggest you try using UV setting cement like bondic. I use it often instead of CA. The beauty of it is it is not sticky but will set instantly when exposed to UV light. If you like it you can get UV flashlights and large amounts of UV setting glue for under $15 a piece on Amazon.

A caveat on the UV glue, at least for me, is that the glue has to be exposed to the UV light. The ads showing 2 prices of crockery being glued to like new condition is patently false. The glue on the does will set, but the interior will not. I know this is not really ship building related, but has been my experience.

 

[Rob444]

A caveat on the UV glue, at least for me, is that the glue has to be exposed to the UV light. The ads showing 2 prices of crockery being glued to like new condition is patently false. The glue on the does will set, but the interior will not. I know this is not really ship building related, but has been my experience.

I use a very bright UV flashlight that is optimized for a specific wavelength. (395nm I believe) and I hold the light as close to the join as I can for about 15 seconds. I have not had a problem with the glue not setting.

Rob