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Filament Dryers for 3D Printing

Joined
Dec 14, 2021
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I thought it might be helpful to anyone new to FDM (filament) 3D printing to show the value of using a filament dryer. When I began 3D printing I would regularly become bemused, confused and maddened when I'd load a brand new spool of filament, print something beautifully, then go to reprint the next day only to get garbage. I spent hours and hours fiddling with the slicer settings, taking advice from anyone and everyone on the web to change this or that parameter, really just chasing my tail.

I then bought a filament dryer and my FDM printing experience changed overnight. On the very rare occasions when I have a sticking failure or get spaghetti, the first thing I do is re-dry that reel because it almost always immediately fixes the problem. I had previously tried drying my filaments in the oven, using the lowest possible setting, only to semi-fuse them, so I'd recommend skipping that learning exercise! I use the dryer all the time i.e. I keep it running while printing. As I have two FDM's and sometimes have both running simultaneously, I have two dryers; one is the basic Sunlu S1, the other is the more expensive Creality Space Pi. While the Sunlu is okay, the Creality is better as it tells you what the humidity is inside the box, so you get a good idea whether your filament is dry enough for printing. Anything below about 20 % humidity is good.

On to the illustration. This is a quick'n'dirty tool I needed and I figured on using up the leftovers of a roll of PLA than has been sitting around for months if not years. It's sliced for a quick print, I didn't need a fine finish. I didn't dry it out first, largely to see whether storing part-used reels in an airing cupboard does anything useful. It doesn't. So, on the right, un-dried filament, on the left, the same after about an hour of pre-drying.

1763036659915.png
 
In my opinion, this example does not seem to be a moisture problem. Rather, it seems to be a settings problem. But that doesn't change the fact that moisture causes a lot of strange errors and prints with all kinds of imperfections.
Moist filament breaks very easily, especially PLA, when you bend it. It should be flexible. Damp filament causes clogging (blocking your nozzle), stringing (similar to hair around your print, which can also be an extraction problem), and unevenness in the surface of your print. This is because the moisture boils and forms bubbles that burst. You may also hear this as a crackling sound from your nozzle.
Here are a few websites where you can learn a lot about printer problems. And there is a lot that could happen or go wrong.



A filament dryer is not an unnecessary luxury. Even if you don't use the printer for a long time, it is wise to store the filament in a sealed container with silica gel to keep it dry.
I use THIS dryer, which works perfectly and is reasonably priced. For storage, I use a sealed box or one of those special bags that you can vacuum seal. Aliexpress is a good shop to buy Creality parts, because it is a Chinese brandt. I paid about €50,00 for mine.
 
Sorry but I beg to differ! The only difference between the two prints is that I dried the filament for the second print. Everything else was identical.
I see 2 different parts (length), so you don't use the same gcode, there could be a different setting when you slice it. And if the top where you look at is the part that is on the plate (the first layer) you have to check your z-offset. And if you don't have an autoleveling you have to check that every time you print an object.
I'm printing on an old Ender 3v2. Where do you print on?
 
The parts are from a batch of tools, all printed using exactly the same profile in OrcaSlicer. I chose the shorter 'good print' sample for the photo because the true counterpart is now dirty and wouldn't have been so clear. But it printed identically. I printed these on a Neptune 4 Plus, which has 121 point auto-levelling. It's a very good machine, it pretty much has all of the typical ender 3 upgrades included as standard. I have it running constantly and the z-height is spot on. Trust me, this machine is dialled in.

In a way, this discussion is exactly what I was referencing by posting the example. You can spend hours, days, weeks looking for explanations and solutions for a poor print, including looking at every website on the web, or you can just buy a filament dryer, eliminate one of the major variables, and probably (in my experience) solve your problem there and then.
 
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