Fuzzy rigging line

MOG

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I have been getting some fuzzy lines lately as a norm I wax all the lines, lately I have tried soaking them in water diluted with white glue then waxing. I have allot of different types of line in the supply locker hemp, synthetic, treated, untreated, ect not a big fan of the newer synthetic stuff so I order from several different companies. Difference in quality could be the problem ? I do have some really old line which really looks good but will fuzz up even after waxing. Bottom line is I need to try to treat some of the lines already rigged, and find a solution for the new line. any help or Ideas would be greatly appreciated. Notice the fuzz in the outboard hull lines in the photo MOG

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I've been away from the hobby for quite some time, In the past I have seen this difference between cotton, cotton/poly, and linen threads. The 100% linen never fuzzed after drawing through bees wax. As for the riggged line, I would try bees wax bead or buttons and try to gently redraw the lines through.
Below are the bees wax I'm talking about. they come in white clairified also.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Beeswax-Be...KkAAOSwEUVZYmrD:sc:USPSFirstClass!44132!US!-1
 
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Problem with bee's wax is that dust sticks to it and after a few years the model is very difficult to clean. None of the guys I know wax rigging lines anymore. The best solution is to purchase or make rigging line that doesn't fuzz. I use a brand from DMC (made in France) available in most Arts and Crafts stores here in the states. 100% cotton, color fast, and available in different sizes.

Now if you want really good rigging line, some of our modeling friends make their own rigging (Don Robinson and others) that looks absolutely fantastic!!!
 
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The reason I seal my models in a glass cases with <.01% air transfer. Prior to to '96 I kept my models on display in a gran room like a museum. After that I had a catastrophic house fire that claimed everything but the basement.

Have never found glass cases to keep out all the dust and most the folks here don't have the room or money to invest in a museum quality case. I used to wax the rigging lines on all my old models as well... put them in glass cases just like you... but after several moves and many, many years... well... just not worth the trouble in my opinion. :)
 
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Have never found glass cases to keep out all the dust and most the folks here don't have the room or money to invest in a museum quality case. I used to wax the rigging lines on all my old models as well... put them in glass cases just like you... but after several moves and many, many years... well... just not worth the trouble in my opinion. :)
I did not make my own cases, I had a company make them dedicated to Museum cases. One of the ones the made case for one of the Smithsonian's back in the '80's. In the wake of the fire of '96, even though I had these models specifically itemized on my insurance manifest, they still would not cover them, and called them "toys". Personally, I was so devastated by other losses one truly has to choose their battles. This was one I was not willing to fight that day and it far too late to fight today. Just a note for others, that unless you are a museum and have Lloyd's of London as a carrier -- don't bother. But they kept dust out but good for the better part of 15 years. I'm sure they would of held up to a move or two with Pro movers.
 
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MOG

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Thanks for the advice. As stated I use allot of different types of rigging line, Amiti, coldercraft, Billing ect. my last build had little to zero fuzzy lines, taking a hard look at the current build only a few lines are fuzzy, so it looks like its down to a certain type of line which I will single out for some trial and error work. As far as the wax goes I have used it for years with no problems, for me anyway it makes the line much eraser to work with. My current wax block is getting old and grainy, so I will replace it, Thanks Wesmaine the beads & buttons look good for reworking the already rigged lines . which needs to be a very delicate process. however, I’m always looking for new ways, so all advise is appreciated. Side tracking on cases, I build my own which is cost effective, I use plastic instead of glass, less weight, and does not break. Case or no case dust is something we live with, however once in the case the dust is not that bad, of course the environment you live in has some say about it. So, every so often I use a small air duster to give them a clean. Plus, a case protects your precious work.
 

MOG

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Again thanks to Wes for the change in wax idea. So far the rewaxing of the lines is getting rid of most of the fuzz, not much I can do about some of the lines in very tight areas. After looking at all the line I have on hand I think I found the problem, Cotton line , trying to find the right size and look it appears I rigged with some areas with cotton line. The up side is I only used it a few times, said cotton line has since been removed from my supply' locker.
 
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Again thanks to Wes for the change in wax idea. So far the rewaxing of the lines is getting rid of most of the fuzz, not much I can do about some of the lines in very tight areas. After looking at all the line I have on hand I think I found the problem, Cotton line , trying to find the right size and look it appears I rigged with some areas with cotton line. The up side is I only used it a few times, said cotton line has since been removed from my supply' locker.
No worries mate ... we're all in this together:)
 
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I take my lines and run them through a candle flame FAST. Burns off all the fuzz and it stays off. Wax if you have a good cover but not if you don't. easy to clean with a small paint brush and vacuum attachments for cleaning models on a small shop vac.
 
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Excellent advice from Norgale. I did the technique recently myself with running the rigging line through a candle flame quickly and it removed all the fuzz.

I think wax is a big dust attracter, and see a few builds on this forum that use wax on timber and rigging. They appear to have dust issues.
 

ADC

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I have used the flame technique also. Then I would shellac the lines which tightened the rigging up. Don’t add more flame after shellac as it loosens the lines again.
 
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I also once used the flame technique on some waxed lines that were already rigged on my ship. Was real cool watching them burn up to nothing o_O ROTF:p
6 hours later all the burnt lines were replaced with non waxed lines. I now sit further back from my models and practice covid safety by staying 2 meters back from models, fuzz disappears and so does most dust!!:);)
 
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