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General question about cutting/sawing non lasercut model parts

  • Thread starter Thread starter ubjs
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Anyone have a suggestion on how best to saw/file or use some kind of machine to make the recesses in the picture?
If I try the carpet knife, I see that the plywood splits.
Its 2 mm plywood and every recess is ca 4 mm wide.
Its the lower part in the picture that I want to replace the heavily warped one above.

21840DA0-8DC0-4D61-8CA6-7DC6D661E469.jpg
 
I would try a band saw to get close and sand paper or file for the final shape. Like on the left hand edge, I would just sand that with my drum sander on a drill press. but all the grooves along the top edge I would cut with the band saw or a razor saw and do the final shape with a file/rasp.
 
I do not have band saw so I would use a jewelers saw for rough cutting, leaving some meat to file off as final finish. For filing I would get a square piece of wood dowel with some sandpaper glued on it.

1742143350944.png
 
those little pins will break easily so first support the entire piece with a backing board. tack the piece to a traced board to start. Then you can much more safely cut the little dado's (notches) without having to worry so much about those thin fingers. Personally, I'd use a scroll saw on a fairly low speed but a coping saw will also do. You can use small model files to finish out the bottoms....
 
My scroll saw works well for intricate cutting. My band saw and I were not good at small work, only cutting slabs and such but that is just me. Fret saws (jeweler's saws) or even the larger coping saw are great for this kind of work and have served artisans for centuries.
Allan
 
You can use a scroll saw, hand, or power. By hand, you have more control, but it is time-consuming. Power scroll saw works fine, using the correct blade.
This is the saw I use.

BUT.... for these small precise types of cuts, my preference is using Japanese hand saws. The first two saws in the photo (top-down), are flexible by design. The saw at the bottom of the photo is a Dovetail saw, which, unlike the first two, has a reinforcing backbone, which you can see opposite the cutting edge. This gives it rigidity ensuring it cuts straight. Also, the teeth are much smaller, with VERY little
KERF, which results in a very thin and precise cut. This is the saw I use for these types of cuts. I used the saw for the vertical cut outside the line of course and finished it with a sanding stick and small file. As for the bottom, horizontal cut, I don't use a saw at all, but drill small holes, proudly along the line and then like the others finish with the same sanding sticks and files.

I got mine at Woodcraft, as I find the quality and selection of the tools they offer make me :p. You can find their selection in the link below. They are not expensive at all, for what you're getting. They all produce a wonderfully clean, smooth cut.


saw2.jpgsaw.jpg
 
A basic tool in my tool kit is a Zona razor saw. If you’re not familiar with these they are very fine toothed “back saws.” A back saw has a reinforced back to keep the blade from bending. These are available as kits with one handle and several different blades. The blade with the finest teeth has no “set” so it makes a clean cut. Look on Amazon. Don’t pay extra for an included mitre box. It’s junk!

With the deadwood clamped upright in the vise, another basic ship modeling tool, it should be easy to make clean vertical cuts.

I also use the Zona saw with the very fine teeth for cutting brass. While the saws are easily replaced when dull, mine have lasted for years.

Roger
 
DEWALT-DW788-20-Inch-Variable-Speed-Scroll
That is the saw I bought after I got fed up with the chatter/vibration of a cheap brand I had used for too many years and it has been a wonderful tool. Gets my recommendation as well.
Allan
 
At least in the 1990s, there was a company that made special blades for scroll saws that were ROUND and coated with sanding abrasives. They did good work on thin stuff i RECALL.
 
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