Getting started with keel up scratch building

before you start investing in tools i suggest you begin your scratch building odyssey with building a sem-kit. The major part of scratch building is in the building of the model. Either you will love it and want to do it again or you will get frustrated with it and take a step back.
A model like Hahn's Hanna is a small uncompleted build which gives you an understanding of what to expect. At this point there is no need for all the tooling, the frames are laser cut, but don't let that fool you. The frames are cut oversize .040 so you have 1mm tolerance to work in from start to finish. building from semi-scratch has no instructions like a kit it is up to you to figure out the building process.

scratch building is like going from a build it out of the box kit to kit bashing to semi scratch to full blown scratch, adding tools and knowledge along the way.
 
there are about 439 parts in a framed hull and deck of the Hannah. It just might be a better start with just a timbering set with those parts cut out so a builder can focus on how to built it.
you can totally start from scratch and cut and thickness sand 110 liner feet of framing stock. The problem with small thickness sanders is they are hand fed there is no power feeding of the material. What happens when you feed the material by hand it is difficult to feed at the exact same rate so you get pieces slightly thicker or thinner

note: these plans are distorted and can not be used to build from, they are only for show

hannah 1.jpghannah 2.jpghannah 3.jpghannah 4.jpg
 
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there is nothing wrong with the small hobby size thickness sanders for small jobs. It is when you want to sand down 100 to 250 linear feet of framing stock to build frame blanks or try to sand sheet stock 3 x 24 and get a constant thickness

about thickness sanders with no power feed
check out the link

Wood it's characteristics and use in model building

This is a big jump from your artesania kit you mentioned in the other topic in comparison to this question.....I would not recommend to start already with scratch building ..... I think this trade name wood is used mainly for carving, or? there is some truth to this keep in mind this wood is...
shipsofscale.com
 
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Michael
I don't suppose any power tool is an absolute "must have" to create a masterpiece. Look at the contemporary models at Preble Hall, RMG, Musée National de la Marine and others that were made before electric tools existed. It is more for our convenience and saves time for us (and the positive feeling from knowing we made everything on our own.)
Allan
 
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a lot of my modeling is done with hand tools i only use power tools to prep up scale dimensioned wood from heavy lumber.

but scratch building kind of requires big tools to cut down wood into scale sizes, that would be difficult by hand. or buy dimensional lumber.

you can buy a lifetime supply of resawn wood for the cost of the tools to do it yourself.
 
AllanKP69 said:
Michael
I don't suppose any power tool is an absolute "must have" to create a masterpiece. Look at the contemporary models at Preble Hall, RMG, Musée National de la Marine and others that were made before electric tools existed. It is more for our convenience and saves time for us (and the positive feeling from knowing we made everything on our own.)
Allan
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your right about the tools, yes I have a few tools, maybe way to much money tied up in them over the years , but I'm still mainly a do it by hand power guy
 
Dave Stevens (Lumberyard) said:
a lot of my modeling is done with hand tools i only use power tools to prep up scale dimensioned wood from heavy lumber.

but scratch building kind of requires big tools to cut down wood into scale sizes, that would be difficult by hand. or buy dimensional lumber.

you can buy a lifetime supply of resawn wood for the cost of the tools to do it yourself.
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Dave Stevens (Lumberyard) said:
there are about 439 parts in a framed hull and deck of the Hannah. It just might be a better start with just a timbering set with those parts cut out so a builder can focus on how to built it.
you can totally start from scratch and cut and thickness sand 110 liner feet of framing stock. The problem with small thickness sanders is they are hand fed there is no power feeding of the material. What happens when you feed the material by hand it is difficult to feed at the exact same rate so you get pieces slightly thicker or thinner

note: these plans are distorted and can not be used to build from, they are only for show

View attachment 455769View attachment 455770View attachment 455771View attachment 455772the The semi kit Hannah sounds like a great Idea to get my feet wet, Advise taken lets jump small first So the Hannah it is
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Dave Stevens (Lumberyard) said:
there are about 439 parts in a framed hull and deck of the Hannah. It just might be a better start with just a timbering set with those parts cut out so a builder can focus on how to built it.
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I agree with you David and for the majority of ship modelers, kits and timbering sets are the best way to go and we are all very lucky to have those choices. For me one of the things I love about scratch building is that I am not as limited in choosing which vessel to build. There are thousands of high resolution plans available from RMG and the Danish archives alone, from which to choose. This does not make scratch building superior, just different and one more option.

As to hand feeding wood through a thickness sander such as the Byrnes, again, you are absolutely correct, but I have found that with just a little practice in maintaining steady pressure in pushing the wood through, a strip of wood will not vary in thickness more than about 0.002". If I have more than 0.001 over the entire length I just run the piece through again. By the same token if I was manufacturing as you do, I would go for something more efficient and sophisticated as you have done.
Allan
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At last I have got round to building a mini thickness sander. I used a 24v DC motor & transformer. The drum is from Amazon USA by 'O'SKOOL Woodworking. I made / modified the shafts on my mini lathe to fit 10mm bearing blocks. The mod was to the RH shaft, utilising a brass shim to make the 3/8" dia fit the 10mm dia bearing. I found it to be good judgement on my behalf, in buying the 'speed governor plus', as it produced more power to the motor. With the motor connected directly to the 24v DC power, it only ran at 100-150 rpm! As soon as the speed control was connected, it gave a much added power boost 500rpm + ! I'm now off to construct a hood for dust extraction. It probably doesn't appear so, but changing the abrasive is quite easy by removing the LH bearing screws & slackening the RH ones, these are self-aligning, therefore nothing needs re-adjusting.

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Very nicely done Stuart! Do make a hood and suction port for your shop vacuum. The dust is incredibly fine and will coat a room (and nose an lungs) in a few minutes. (I speak from experience)
Allan
 
Dave Stevens (Lumberyard) said:
there are about 439 parts in a framed hull and deck of the Hannah. It just might be a better start with just a timbering set with those parts cut out so a builder can focus on how to built it.
you can totally start from scratch and cut and thickness sand 110 liner feet of framing stock. The problem with small thickness sanders is they are hand fed there is no power feeding of the material. What happens when you feed the material by hand it is difficult to feed at the exact same rate so you get pieces slightly thicker or thinner

note: these plans are distorted and can not be used to build from, they are only for show

View attachment 455769View attachment 455770View attachment 455771View attachment 455772
Click to expand...
Ok Dave the Hannah sounds good to me , first question Sem Kit and or timbering set or both ? Best place to get them ?
 
AllanKP69 said:
Very nicely done Stuart! Do make a hood and suction port for your shop vacuum. The dust is incredibly fine and will coat a room (and nose an lungs) in a few minutes. (I speak from experience)
Allan
Click to expand...
Done it! A 'sexy' see-through extraction 'hoody'. My Bosch Easyvac auto starts at around 300rpm. I've improved the input shaft, by making a new one-piece one, eliminating shims & the previous run-out. No, the pulley is not out of alignment, despite the pulley looking 'cock-eyed', it's the wide angle lens implying it.

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