Glue for Cast Iron

[ozbrian]

I'm putting together a stove which consists of about 10 pieces of metal (looks like cast iron).
I knew my Aliphatic Resin wouldn't be any good so I got out the hot glue gun. After a couple of attempts I found that hot glue does not adhere to the metal at all. Superglue seems to hold everything together but I don't think it will be very strong long-term.

What is the best glue to use for these parts?

Thanks.

 

[Bryian]

A 2 pack epoxy glue like araldite will do the job.

 

[ozbrian]

A 2 pack epoxy glue like araldite will do the job.

Thank you.

 

[KarelS]

I'd try this one

UHU ALLESKLEBER SUPER Strong & Safe, Tube 7g

UHU ALLESKLEBER SUPER Strong & Safe sorgt für super starkes, schnelles und sicheres Kleben nachkorrigierbar – verklebt die Finger nicht sofort…

www.uhu-profishop.de

 

[Roger Pellett]

This is a real problem, moving past the usual mostly wood kits. Try introducing a mechanical “lock” into your glue joint. You can do this by drilling small holes into each side of the joint. Then use Paste viscosity epoxy, not the more liquid type. Here in the USA the brand is JB Weld. When gluing the joint make sure that the epoxy fills the holes that you have drilled an well as the joint itself.

Roger

 

[AndyA]

Cyanoacrylate glue (superglue) or epoxy should do the trick. With either adhesive, it is important to sand or file the mating surfaces a bit to remove any oxides or paint and to help the glue to grip. After that, clean the surface with some alcohol to remove any oil then glue. Fair winds!

 

[Hermies]

Look at car metal bonding: mainly epoxy but there others. Longevity : glues will not last for 100 yrs. I use small slivers of silver solder + pin parts. Once you understand how something works / fabricate it’s easy to buy small thin sheet of copper. Then etch pieces or cut or both and solder - silver / braz or low melt. Of course pickling afterwards 10/1 solution + annealing. I’m from an age were at school we done proper metal / wood working courses. Unlike nowadays. In them days boys had hobbies and girls could cook, sew and awesome handy people to marry! Drawing found in books: reduce via photo copying or hand and add tabs / slots. They really look the bee knees and shameful if covered up. The chimney stacks - easy and so is cowling small pen gas torch / heating matt etc you can buy Liquid Metal glues - Lockhart is one brand. Beware of the metal - alloys are painful! If you can get cast iron (leave outside or …. Then skim off but beware of cheap & chilled spots!!!) That’s why I use copper + basic forming blocks - detail add later) cogs simple file or buy from clocks. Chain etc … already covered. I try oil dip 1st, if no good blacking dip … lastly paint with proper metal paint - not the ground up plastic version. Hope it helps … + time ️… if not wood / paint or bits metal stick on / paint.

 

[ozbrian]

Look at car metal bonding: mainly epoxy but there others. Longevity : glues will not last for 100 yrs. I use small slivers of silver solder + pin parts. Once you understand how something works / fabricate it’s easy to buy small thin sheet of copper. Then etch pieces or cut or both and solder - silver / braz or low melt. Of course pickling afterwards 10/1 solution + annealing. I’m from an age were at school we done proper metal / wood working courses. Unlike nowadays. In them days boys had hobbies and girls could cook, sew and awesome handy people to marry! Drawing found in books: reduce via photo copying or hand and add tabs / slots. They really look the bee knees and shameful if covered up. The chimney stacks - easy and so is cowling small pen gas torch / heating matt etc you can buy Liquid Metal glues - Lockhart is one brand. Beware of the metal - alloys are painful! If you can get cast iron (leave outside or …. Then skim off but beware of cheap & chilled spots!!!) That’s why I use copper + basic forming blocks - detail add later) cogs simple file or buy from clocks. Chain etc … already covered. I try oil dip 1st, if no good blacking dip … lastly paint with proper metal paint - not the ground up plastic version. Hope it helps … + time ️… if not wood / paint or bits metal stick on / paint.

Yes, it sounds like a lost art. Thanks

 

[Roger Pellett]

Before applying heat, check those parts with a magnet. I doubt if they are cast iron or steel. In the past fittings like this were made from lead based or sometimes zinc based alloys that will not withstand high heat from silver solder.

I do a lot of soldering. I use lead free silver bearing solders but I do not find the traditional hard silver solders that require heating with a torch to be necessary for static ship models.

Roger