Glue Vs Nails

[KRB]

Good morning everyone from Vancouver Island
I'm still quite new to ship modelling and I'm finding very relaxing and enjoyable. My first build was Latinas Mare Nostrum, my second one is Billings Mary Ann which is not quite finished. I would like to give a big shout out to pete_5 for his build log of the Mary Ann. Without it I don't think I would have gotten this far.
I'm going to try an Occre model next (any suggestions on which one will be greatly appreciated). On their tutorial videos I noticed they nail the first planking of the hull. Is there any advantage over gluing or does it boil down to personal preference?

Thx, Kevin

 

[POPEYE_DA_SAILOR]

Not advantages. Only disadvantages as discussed in this forum previously. I wouldn't bother with any "double-planked" ship model kit whatsoever. It's well worth moving up at least into the mid-range of quality and price point at this stage. (If you aren't already moving beyond kits and into scratch building.) With your present experience, you should be able to recognize that Occre is not a brand rated highly for their accuracy. I expect you will find models from manufacturers like Model Shipways, Bluejacket Shipcrafters, and Vanguard will be much more appropriate to your present level of experience,

 

[Pepite 1/60]

I'd stay away from Occre too. If you want to stick to fishing vessels, see this one:

Fifie 1:32 fishing boat assembly kit - Amati Model

1:32 scale model of the Fifie: a type of 20th century Scottish fishing vessel. The kit contains: keel, frames, accessories and instructions.

www.amatimodel.com

or this one:

Maria HF31 - DUŠEK SHIP KITS

DUŠEK SHIP KITS - HIGH QUALITY, LASER CUT WOODEN KITS

www.dusekshipkits.com

 

[dockattner]

Good morning everyone from Vancouver Island
I'm still quite new to ship modelling and I'm finding very relaxing and enjoyable. My first build was Latinas Mare Nostrum, my second one is Billings Mary Ann which is not quite finished. I would like to give a big shout out to pete_5 for his build log of the Mary Ann. Without it I don't think I would have gotten this far.
I'm going to try an Occre model next (any suggestions on which one will be greatly appreciated). On their tutorial videos I noticed they nail the first planking of the hull. Is there any advantage over gluing or does it boil down to personal preference?

Thx, Kevin

Hello Kevin. I don't normally weigh in on these things but in the spirit of helping out a new guy: you must use glue - and not only on the frames/bulkheads - but between each plank. You will never get a smooth hull if you only glue/nail on bulkheads - there is too much flex in the plank between these attachment points to effectively sand or scrape.

I never found a use for nails. They either end up needing to be removed or sanded - and they make sanding unproductive because the metal is harder than the wood. If you need nails to hold a plank down to keep it in place then you need to go back and spend a bit more time shaping the plank.

Hope this helps.

 

[ubjs]

I always use nails and glue for the first layer of the hull. I’m currently building Vanguard’s *Sherbourne*; it comes with nails, and the manual explicitly instructs you to use them. I push the nails in—about a third to halfway—and then remove them once the glue has dried for roughly 24 hours.
You should definitely glue the planks together along their entire length as well—not just glue them to the frames.
In some model kits, the spacing between the frames is too wide; in such cases, you should fill the gaps—for example, with balsa wood—to ensure a smooth hull planking.
Billing Boats kits often feature excessive spacing between the frames, combined with poor-quality wood for the hull.

I highly recommend Vanguard’s models; they offer several fishing boat kits. They use modern techniques for hull construction, and the materials included in the kits are excellent. You’ll notice a big difference compared to the models you’ve built in the past.

 

[DAWarden-(Jaager)]

POB is not a method with any appeal for me - but there are some general techniques in play here.

For ship modeling at any level - nails of any sort are a bad, bad idea. In precision wood working - the principle by which a nail holds does not fit. From elementary school- two objects cannot occupy the same space at the same time. Nail goes in - wood has to go somewhere.
permanent - Nails can be used as a dowel - pre-drill the hole - scarify the nail surface to add tooth - dip in glue - even PVA will hold enough.
temp - drill a hole that is a tight fit - but not too tight -if you intend to extract it later.

POB molds - most are either plywood or MDF? Plywood - it is end grain - which makes for a weak bond at best. MDF - synthetic crap - but does bond. Neither is a place to drive a nail/

Plywood - first thing after the proper bevel is formed - give the edge a heavy soak in coat of PVA. Let polymerize.
If you do this, one thing to try = first layer of planking - dab a spot of PVA at each place where it will sit on the plywood. Let the PVA polymerize - 12 hrs.
Dry fit- add a spot of fresh PVA at 1/2 the meeting area. Place the plank. Iron the plank at each mold. Not too hot. Burn or even scorch - you don't want it.

Heat will activate a bond between two surfaces that a polymerized PVA on them. Sort of a heat activated contact cement.
The new wet PVA will form a stringer bond.