Gluing Brass parts together

[Garage Modeler]

I am new to model ship building, and I am building the Norwegian Sailing Pram by Model Expo - the second in a series of three ships. I am trying to attach the gudgeons and pintels for the rudder. I have glued on the small brass tubes on the pad. I have also the pintels onto the brass pintel straps. However, whenever some pressure is applied, it seems, the parts come off the straps. I have had to re-glue one gudgeon onto the pad twice, and both pintels to the pintel straps once. I let the glued parts dry at least overnight before manipulating them. At first I was using Gorilla Super Glue, but I thought maybe the I needed a thicker glue; so, I am not using Loctite Super Glue. I just do not understand what I may be doing wrong. Does anyone have any suggestions on gluing these brass parts together, especially as they will be under some degree of pressure once mounted?

Many thanks for any suggestions.

 

[Y.T.]

If brass to brass the parts should be soldered together, not glued.

 

[Corsair]

I agree with YT above.

 

[Rob444]

I agree with the above. However if you do not have the ability to solder, you may want to consider making sure the brass is really clean of any contaminates and perhaps a light sanding with some fine emery paper. Additionally a two part epoxy would work much better. Such as this below.

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Epoxy-Minute-ounce-Syringe/dp/B001Z3C3AG/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1WD6TT2ZIE2QS&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.vMo9_f9cfrXtjLGW6b1umM-4OuNpofMS2lNbK6grjd8gRNZe-XJ1ESJmUAe15RB5pYcAoxJ5whfftjuZ83kwHGGnf8yKjK5RP83TjqnZVFRowLNo3fAVHkM2jIq4prvNqWlzHJ_-Q_uTE8QLhn9_px4Bv5UjS7zJKSCoNCCApIHWb5NG5zQjpjOKrwAtNZIAai-XQ082cbmuRTNdJ8ZxLQCaONFTAJ-L9iRmtLVDxB4.vRG9bT6b-t6hOqgEJszuB5P1WyG_WJpSEEln2AkjZ0s&dib_tag=se&keywords=two+part+epoxy+glue&qid=1770777728&sprefix=two+part+epoxy%2Caps%2C216&sr=8-1

Rob

 

[Roger Pellett]

I do a lot of miniature metalwork; all brass. For assembling parts:

First choice- lead free acid free solder. This is soft solder applied with an electric soldering iron and liquid flux. I don’t own or use an expensive soldering station; just an ordinary conical tipped soldering iron. Soldering is an essential modeling skill.

Second choice- JB Weld Original Formula Epoxy.

Third choice- Duco cement.

Each has its own use.

Roger

 

[JerryTodd]

There's a couple of good videos on soldering photo-etched parts on YouTube and a couple on using a jewelers torch for more solid items.
such as:

 

[Jabus7]

In incidently that is what I was doing yesterday also on the Pram, as per the instructions I too used CA glue. They did stick well but I do not like the result as it is messy. In fact yesterday evening I was researching soldering and started to order flux, soldering iron etc. What I did do yesterday which seemed to have helped is to cut small pieces off a brass nail and placed them directly adjacent to the pipe to add strength by increasing the contact surface. I have taken some photos to help explain.

 

[Garage Modeler]

Thank you. I like your idea. I re-glued before I posted my question, but if (or when) it falls off, I may use your idea.

 

[Dr Syn]

I've now gone over to solder paste instead of a wire. Just put a very small blob of the paste ( its a mixture of flux and solder) on the parts, put a soldering iron carefully on one, and the heat fuses it all together. I don't think I'll use wire ever again.
here's an example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/28559484...8Wsf2ZFCgD4Bz2qMTFouCIspG+k1|tkp:BFBMnsDZ69dl

 

[Kimosubby]

Yup, soldering for brass parts, and paste is the best. Can get lower temperature paste (180'C) as used for SMD and hot air gun. Do not need to silver solder UNLESS there is major stress on parts, like brass rings onto mast bands for rigging r/c yachts etc.

Kim

 

[Yuri]

I'm wondering, does yellowish solder exist to closely match brass colour? Has anybody tried using a jeweller spot welder?

Yuri

 

[Kimosubby]

Yuri,
all my brass, pintles, hinges, eyerings/bolts, chain and others are all blackened, especially after soldering, as there were very, very few items of brass on a period ship. I've not encountered ordinary yellow solder but there is a gold paste solder, check jewellery website like Cooksongold.
Even bronze guns, close up, look more black than bronze, and certainly not bright brass colour.

Kim

 

[Na Daeyong's Apprentice]

I don't know much about the solder game myself. Let's say you're working with pieces you plan to chemically blacken, can you use brass wire for soldering the pieces together?

 

[Rob444]

I don't know much about the solder game myself. Let's say you're working with pieces you plan to chemically blacken, can you use brass wire for soldering the pieces together?

Not really. Brass melts at about 1700F. Solder melts at about 400F. If you heated the brass wire it would probably cause the brass parts you want to secure to melt or change their shape.

 

[Ted Robinson]

Yup, soldering for brass parts, and paste is the best. Can get lower temperature paste (180'C) as used for SMD and hot air gun. Do not need to silver solder UNLESS there is major stress on parts, like brass rings onto mast bands for rigging r/c yachts etc.

Kim

I know soldering is sufficient but I'm so looking forward to learning to silver solder. Something about it appeals to me

 

[Kimosubby]

Hi Ted,
if you already manage soldering copper and fittings then silver soldering is another step up.
As with all soldering, clean, oil free surfaces are a must, use the correct flux, and pre silver parts.
You'll need a good small high temperature flame, and a good pickling tub for the finished parts to clean up.
Kim

 

[Ted Robinson]

Hi Ted,
if you already manage soldering copper and fittings then silver soldering is another step up.
As with all soldering, clean, oil free surfaces are a must, use the correct flux, and pre silver parts.
You'll need a good small high temperature flame, and a good pickling tub for the finished parts to clean up.
Kim

Thanks for the advice.
What chemicals are used in the pickling tub? I haven't seen this step in n the video's I've watched

 

[Kimosubby]

Hi again.
I use sodium bisulphate solution, as supplied by Cookongold, a jewellery specialist company. There are many alternatives, if you search the web for pickling salts you should get a list of them. Their purpose is to clean up the soldered area of the various oxides created due to the high temperatures and solder additives and metallic mix.
All items were dunked in the pickle pot till they were clean and clean, sometimes overnight.
I find silver soldering quite addictive. When I built thames barges, there were so many metal items to make that I had blacksmithing weekends, just making eyebolts, mast bands, and lee board winch parts etc. Good work for the winter.

Kim

 

[Roger Pellett]

Joining metal parts together using brass wire is called brazing. It is done with a torch and usually with an oxygen/gascombination.The high heat required would damage model sized parts as Rob444 posts above.

Soft solder is strong enough for metalwork on static models. Amazon sells a lead free silver based 1/32” diameter solder that I particularly like. I use a low viscosity liquid flux. It flows like water into tiny crevices.

Roger

 

[Ted Robinson]

Hi again.
I use sodium bisulphate solution, as supplied by Cookongold, a jewellery specialist company. There are many alternatives, if you search the web for pickling salts you should get a list of them. Their purpose is to clean up the soldered area of the various oxides created due to the high temperatures and solder additives and metallic mix.
All items were dunked in the pickle pot till they were clean and clean, sometimes overnight.
I find silver soldering quite addictive. When I built thames barges, there were so many metal items to make that I had blacksmithing weekends, just making eyebolts, mast bands, and lee board winch parts etc. Good work for the winter.

Kim

That sounds like fun. I really enjoy making brass parts. Looking for someone making brass ship model parts on YouTube but haven’t found much