"Größe Jacht" Yacht D'Oro scale1/50 Corel

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This buildlog is also lost on the last MSW crash. The model is at this time finished.

The Corel kit actually looks like the replica (called Sehnsucht) of the Große Jacht from the Brandenburg Navy.
This kit dates from 1973; the plans and especially the instructions are "simple". So, a kit that presents a challenge...
Bought this at a very good low price.

I believe this is the only image that exists of this yacht.

The 2 construction drawings

And this is where the "build instructions" ends ...

plywood

Even more plywood (the decks are also just plywood)

Some wood (quality walnut) !

PE parts

The Corel flags, along with the already self-made and printed versions on tissue paper.

The walnut planks are used for decks and for the hull, pear wood is sawn.

underneath, the pear planks

 

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The plywood is beveled at the keel and bow. The new keel and bow section are ready.

Gluing.

Test, looks ok

Dry test frames, also ok

By using both the plywood and the walnut planks as the deck, I need to lower the frames and the top of the plywood keel piece by 2mm.

Sawing

The frames are glued.

Deck (base) in place.

The plywood sides of the small rear castle are first scored on the inside, so they fold more easily.

The hull shape does not match a Dutch yacht from this period. But fortunately, we are not building a Dutch yacht

 

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The planking

Corel's idea is to nail extra supports onto the deck. And to start like this.

I don't find this very practical. Therefore, these were removed, and this material was used in a different way that provides more support to the planks.

The pear wood planks are very flexible.

I know nothing about a 17th-century yacht, so I bought some reading in advance.

No hole was provided for the tiller. But the problem was spotted and solved in time.

Planking, work in progress. The diagram for the planking on the stern comes from the book.

 

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Planking.
First, planks were installed onto which the large PE parts will later be glued.
To determine the correct position, the height of a cannon was measured first. And in this way, the position of the first gunport can be marked out via the gunports.
Once this gunwale is glued, the excess part of these first planks is removed, and planking can continue underneath.

Planking, work in progress.

 

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Further planking
Before further planking can take place, a spiral staircase must first be made. Originally, this is made of plywood, so a new one is being made of pear wood.

The opening has been placed more towards the center, so there is less interference with the cannon standing in front of the stairs.

Planking, this method was found in the book about the Dutch yacht Utrecht.

Plank bender

Ready to sand (so I'm doing that in my garden shed)

A first sanding with grit 60 has been done.

The plywood fittings on the deck have also been removed.

 

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The inside of the bulwark is planked.

Check if the gunports will still be positioned correctly.

And the deck planking has started.
For this, the walnut wood from the kit was used (of excellent quality).
Black thread has been placed between the planks as caulking. Never used, just a test. It is very difficult to sand the deck afterwards. Bad method, I will never do this again.

With the deck plankin finished

My favorite pastime, drilling holes and filling them back in

 

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The wall of the aft cabin looks like this according to the kit.

And the hole for the whipstaf is just "a hole"

New layout for the wall.

"Work in progress" nothing glued or painted.
A new, more "baroque" wall and a better base for the whipstaf.

A new mast base

And a small ladder to the foredeck, partly kit material and partly pieces of pear wood.
The chimney is still in the design phase.

 

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A bit further

Practiced a technique that was new to me.
Black fishing line meant to imitate nails. The large "bolts" are blackened nails. The 4 small black dots are the fishing line.

The PE parts on the hull are nailed and glued. This is easier to clamp and the decoration already has a bit more relief.
First drill 0.7mm holes

And then nails

The stern/transom is also a bit more dressed up.

The unpainted wall of the cabin is reasonably finished.
Now with "hinges" and a doorknob on every door

Anyone who looks closely will see that the rear ports for these two cannons are noticeably positioned lower toward the deck.
Design flaw by Corel? I noticed it too late, anyway... Will be fun to fix...

 

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Placing the "potdeksels" (found in the Utrecht yacht book)
These are made of 2mm pearwood instead of the 2mm plywood pieces from the kit.

Bought extra fittings as decoration around the cannon and anchor cable openings, little gems from Veritas at 99 cents a bag.

The back is filed flat to obtain a larger gluing surface.

The result is actually quite good.

There are some glue stains from the CA glue here and there, but once painted you won't see any of that anymore.

 

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The structure of the bow.
The plywood parts are being replaced by pear-shaped pieces.

With a first (rough) coat of paint. And there is still some extra sanding to be done, I see in the photo now.

A solid foundation for the little figurehead.

The wall of the aft cabin has been painted and installed. And the planking of the upper deck has begun.

The planking is done, further finishing is required.

There are 2 "shapes" provided for the side windows of the cabin; the material looks like pressed paper. Furthermore, some PE parts and 4 figures.
First sand and cut into shape a bit, and then get to work.

Extra work, but definitely a bit better than just the kit parts :yes:

Meanwhile, the deck on the cabin is also finished. A first coat of paint has been applied and some sanding has already been done.
No masking tape was used; at the time, it was not available either.

 

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I've started painting.
The red paint was first given some grey drybrushing. Then the decoration around the cannon opening was painted yellow, with a golden drybrushing on top.
The choice of cannon is still very open (kit material or leftovers from the parts box).

The parts of the hull planking that are not white, black, or otherwise colored are fitted with streenails).
The gunwales of "bolts" (headpins)
And the plank between the gunwales made of "nails" (fishing line)

All wooden parts were then polished with Scotchbrite (the dishwashing sponge).

Painting the decoration has also started; the PE parts that came with the kit for this were a pain to paint....
Base color red, yellow on the details, and a gold-colored dry brushing over the whole thing; I really can't do any better.

Also started on the winch,
The 3 kit parts

Winch, modified version.
The square holes are drilled out first, then a small square file is gently tapped in and filed a bit.

 

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Grooves are milled into the winch.

Ready for assembly

Placed, and "bolted" (with small iron nails)

Crane beam? under construction and 2 other supports are being provided with scraps from the kit.

Installed and also bolted in place.

The new supports (unpainted)

The handle to lock the winch was also made. The Roman head and the wood come from the kit, the belaying pin from the junk box.

Mr. Rome is ready for service; belaying pins will be inserted into the 4 holes later.
The chimney is a work in progress.

 

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(fake) scuppers

And the modified chimney, ready to be painted.

The bow initially had the characteristic point. However, due to the extensive manipulation required for planking and sanding the hull, it had become somewhat "blunt."
So patchwork, and also drilled holes etc. The semicircular piece of wood above the holes was originally a toothpick.

Ironwork, support for the bowsprit and belaying pins.

Installing the ironwork and filing a semicircular groove for the bowsprit

"finished"

So the painted chimney is also in place.

Attaching the beam for the belaying pins.
These were first glued in place and then bolted (3 nails, in pre-drilled holes).

The nails are not hammered in, but secured in the wood with a pliers
The painted side on the outside is protected with cloth and a piece of wood.

And this is what it looks like with the nails "blackened"
Holes have already been drilled in each opening for a cannon. The eye bolts and hooks will be inserted here later.

 

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Started construction of the pavilion

windows

Pre-painted windows and wood.

With windows installed

And provided with a roof.

 

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Work has also started on applying the decoration around the rear castle. Not exactly according to the building instructions, but in line with the painting.
Not all the ladies fit correctly in the new arrangement in the places where they end up. To secure them more firmly, one lady needed a brass pin straight through her stomach (ouch...)
The pin is 1.5mm electrical copper wire.

Continuing with the painting of the rearcabin.
The "window" has been given some extra decoration. Simple, some braided copper wire and a small wooden slat.

The "peacock tail," or whatever else you want to call it. It is of incredibly poor quality, really shoddy.
You look at it, and it breaks...

The 2 windows on the transom are 2 pieces of PE in the kit.
So just upgrading

2 windows ready for painting and a patched and reinforced tail.

With some extra attributes added, the painted cabin / stern.

Work in progress,

 

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The rudder
With the left: 3 new parts.
And on the right... a piece of plywood from the kit

INork in progress

rudder with plastic parts. Respect to builders who can do all this in brass, but it's not for me.

A hole is drilled in each hinge.

Copper pins go into it (1.5mm wire).

After drilling holes in the hull, the rudder is secured.
Reason for the copper pins: rigidity; without them, the rudder falls off again at the slightest manipulation.

Now finish the hull

And painted

The small hatches in the stern.
These are normally not gunports, but small hatches for ventilation.

And painted and assembled

"Tail" mounted

so far, so good

 

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these masts and yards prepared.

add some extra decoration
Preparations

Work in progress

The extras are on

Figurehead painted and installed (looks exactly like Lady Godiva...)

 

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the leeboards.
The Corel version is quite basic, so nothing is being used.

First, i make the attachment points

Mandatory break....


Painted and bolts "blackened". The 2 brown things go at the front to attach the anchor (photo later, forgot to take one).

Copied from the Utrecht.
The swords have an adjustable pivot point; moving them slightly further forward or backward apparently affected their operation.

To avoid having to mill a difficult groove in the bulwark, black paint

exterior

Inside.

The leeboards under construction

Part of this project is to try out new techniques for me.
So, I've discovered that copper and brass aren't for me.
The heads of the copper nails are also much too large to scale.

So remove the copper work and continue with polystyrene sheet, strip, etc.

Result,
the painted version with plastic fittings.

 

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Meanwhile, started with some smaller parts.
The original parts for the pump look pretty okay,but will not be used.

The lleboards have been glued together in the meantime.
One up
One down on the future leeward side.

And we continue,

The toothpick pieces ensure a firmer attachment.

The channel with irons

Quality control.
The drill bit is inserted into the eye of each iron. And in this way, the model, including the base plate, is lifted.
If everything is glued down properly, nothing will break loose (better now than during rigging...)

And painted

The "mobile" attachment of the leeboards.

Painted

The "artillery" factory.
The included brass rod for the axles is not used, but toothpick is.

The included cannon barrels have many casting seams, and the end of the cannon barrel is not really well done.

Step 1: The test model

Step 2: red carriages and the barrels glued on

Step 3: the mounting "hinges"

Step 4: painted and finished

Something that has been bothering me for a long time.
This model is partly for practice and learning. This planking with the black thread in between got on my nerves. Didn't turn out very well.
So, sawed the walnut planks from the kit thinner to 1 mm. Scraped off the Danish oil. And time to plank again.

Much better, still to be scraped flat, "nailed down," and a new coat of oil on it.

 

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:Make a balustrade.
Create the styles first

Next, drill holes and install metal pins. It seems excessive, but this makes joining much easier.

Clamp it in the vise. And apply CA glue (thanks to the mortise and tenon joints, everything now stays nicely in place).

sanded

Test setup (the new deck above the cabin is also ready in the meantime)

The wooden "travelers" for the sheets of the mainsail and foresail
Two 2x4 slats have been glued together at a time in an already curved shape.

With the brass rings to put around these walkways. And a painted balustrade.

Corel does not provide for this for thetraveler. So, no space has been provided for it...
It's either too far forward

Or in the mast...

So, prying the mast base loose, adjusting the hole to the back. And gluing the mast base back on... pfff

The modified version, (cannons still separate)

And the traveler for the mainsail (Corel provides a small metal version)
The balustrade has been installed. So important guests can no longer fall into the stairwell from this side if they've done too much :beer...