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Halifax Build Log: Lumberyard

Thanks Doug, It will be about a week and a half before i post, as I am going to my middele sons wedding on the shore in Alabama, when i get back I will start posting, you will have to bear with me for a while as this is my first building log, and I am computer illeterate, so will have to depend on others for a while. THANKS DON
 
there is a collection of photos of Harold Hahn's original model to use as a reference.

go here

http://modelshipbuilder.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?27704.last
 
Gary, They do, have done maybe 4 of there kits well satisfied, and Dave is there to help with problems as they arrise, GO TO MSB FORUM PAGE SCROLL DOW TO WHERE YOU SEE CAUSTIC PROJECT, my build with Daves help 42 pages, great model as an intermediate modeler(NO EXPERT AT ALL), one of my better builds.....as a disclaimer I have no buisness or financial actions with the Lumberyard or Dave Stevens,........ Dave I checked out the photos on MSB DID YOU CHECK MY PICTURES AM I OK WITH THE STARTING POINT, getting ready to do the keel and and stem, stern and dead wood, one question for Dave since the Hahn Method has longer frames then the Caustic is there a problem with keeping it steady while work proceeds, or should I add a temporary Piece at the stem to the jig for added strength, just keep up with my log and tell me if any mistakes occuring. THANKS Don..... PS need to learn how to post pictures and text as this is my first building log, and I am a computer ileteriate all help would be appreciated
 
Getting ready to do the keel and and stem, stern and dead wood, one question for Dave since the Hahn Method has longer frames then the Caustic is there a problem with keeping it steady while work proceeds?

Hahn came up with a jigging system for framing a hull and all his models use the same system. A little flaw in the system was placing all the frames upside down in the jig them adding the keel structure. The issue is every frame has to be dead on or you end up with some frame notches being a bit higher or lower making fitting the keel a problem.

In order for this to work each frame has to be exact from the top of the extension to the keel notch. Hahn made a jig for building each frame by adding a square section of the keel for the notch and a back stop for the jig. If the frames are not exact the notch will float up and down.

Each and every frame must also be perfectly square with the jig surface or the frame will not fall in its notch at the keel

I took the jig idea and modified it by securing the keel assembly in the jig first

Rather than depending on an exact measurement between the jig and the keel notch I use the keel notch to set the frames. This way if there is any slight change in the built frames it does not matter because the top of the extension can move slightly up or down and not effect the frame location in the jig, the frame is seated in the notch.

it might take a little bending the frame inward to get it to slip down into the jig, but the frames do flex enough to slide them into the jig and set in the keel notch.
 
Hi Dave, I think I am getting it, On this build we are using the Hahan method, like yours better, but it is what it is, will use what is there, could you do me one favor PLEASE check my pictures to see if I am correct at the location of first WHOLE FRAME No. A,...... and at the stern HALF FRAME Nos. ONE THROUGH FOUR,....... HAVE some other questions on the number of pieces of certain frames, but will get there latter. THANKS Don
 
Hahn built his frames by using frame blanks then glued the frame pattern on the blank and cut out the frame.

for model builder who do not have the tools or desire to do the required mill work to produce the framing stock the Halifax has the frames pre cut with a laser

to assemble the frames use the drawing on the plans and place pins along the edge

then set the floor timber in place

pins were set in the corners of the notch to center the timber

now go ahead and place the rest of the frame parts

once the frame shape is set next is to place the first futtock with its notch located against the pin at the notch corner and against the other pins

"That's it your off and running, take it away Don"
 
"Could you do me one favor PLEASE check my pictures to see if I am correct at the location of first WHOLE FRAME No. A,...... and at the stern HALF FRAME Nos. ONE THROUGH FOUR,....... HAVE some other questions on the number of pieces of certain frames, but will get there latter. THANKS Don"

ok sure

lets look at the drawings
by the way the drawings posted are distorted so they can not be used to build from. they are posted for instructional purposes only. The Hahn estate is quite sensitive about people copying Harold's work. The Lumberyard for model shipwrights is the only business granted permission to use images, plans and material from the estate, other than that anything else has been pirated, and that is a can of worms in itself so we wont go there.

so on this sheet of plans the first notches at the bow are numbered 5,6,7,8,9 there are cant frames and rest against the deadwood plus 10 which is the bow timbers

the first whole frame is A and the notch is colored gray the last whole frame is V and it is also gray the red notches are the half frames at the stern and they sit against the deadwood. counting the bow timbers the first whole frame A is in the 7th notch

frame A is colored gray and found on the plan plate 3

on this sheet plate 2

the last whole frame is colored gray and is marked V the red frames are frames W,X,Y, 1,2,3,4
 
WAY TO GO DAVE, Foreget the pictures I sent you, YOU ANSWERED MY QUESTION, (AS ALWAYS UNDERSTANABLY, was scratching my head for 2 days why the drawings did not match, NOW I KNOW, what a relief that is, especialy on the keel, stem, deadwood and stern post, thank THE LORD I THOUGHT I DID SOMETHING WRONG, NOW I KNOW......only other thing is determing the height to the top of rail, keel is slanted, so do not know where to establish the finish, I am asking this now as I mark MY FRAMES BEFORE INSTALLING THEM NORMALLY OFF THE FRAME DRAWINGS, but do not know where to start on this, that should be it for a while I hope........ THIS IS TO GARY I KNOW THAT DAVE MIGHT GET A LITTLE UPSET BECAUSE HE DOES NOT TOOT HIS OWN HORN, BUT THIS IS WHY I LOVE TO DO HIS KITS, BECAUSE HE WILL GIVE YOU A UNDERSTANABLE ANSWER VERY QUICKLY, GOING SO FAR AS TO GIVE A 3-D DRAWING TO A PROBLEM, LIKE HE DID ON MY CAUSTIC BUILD, so there it is...... right now I AM TAKING PICTURES OF MY PROGRESS AND LEARNING FROM DONNIE HOW TO DO A BUILDING LOG IN 10 detailed steps....THANKS DONNIE,.......WILL BE POSTING IN ABOUT 10 DAYS AFTER GOING TO MY MIDDEL SONS WEDDING ON THE GULF SHORE IN ALABAMA, REALLY LOOKING FOREWARD TO THAT. THANKS TO EVERYONE. Don
 
Dave, PLEASE SEE IF YOU CAN TELL ME HOW TO DETERMINE THE TOP OF RAIL WOULD LIKE TO MARK IT ON FRAMES....THANKS DON

go to the master frame plan. select a frame on the plan. the bottom blue arrow is the top of the notch on the frame the top arrow is the bottom of the rail. take that measurement and transfer it to the frame drawing

because there is a curve to the cap rail the measurement will change with every frame.
 
Had to stop posting pictures, as the LAST STEP of reducing the size, I can not get it....... AFTER I CLICK ON FILE AND OPEN IT BOT SINGULAR AND MULTIPLE PICTURES SAY FILES TO LARGE .....CAN NOT GET IT INTO THE LAST SEQUENCE AND REDUCE IT.......CAN ANYONE HELP OTHER THEN THAT I THINK I GOT IT OK. THANKS DON
 
donfarr said:
Had to stop posting pictures, as the LAST STEP of reducing the size, I can not get it....... AFTER I CLICK ON FILE AND OPEN IT BOT SINGULAR AND MULTIPLE PICTURES SAY FILES TO LARGE .....CAN NOT GET IT INTO THE LAST SEQUENCE AND REDUCE IT.......CAN ANYONE HELP OTHER THEN THAT I THINK I GOT IT OK. THANKS DON
Click to expand...
Don, read Donnie's post on photo sharing to start. I also had to work with Donnie a bit to figure out how it get my photos to work.
There are a couple restrictions on size. We figured out the max width is 900 pix.

I use Paint Shop Pro to crop and resize the images. It costs ~$40.
Very simple process for me was to import the original photo, crop it to the minimum part you want and save it off.
Then resize the cropped image with Image -> Resize setting the width to a max 900 pixels. Save the small image and use it to upload.

Hope that works
Doug
 
Hi Dave, I think I got it, I am going to try to start posting today to see if I have it right, LOTS OF HELP HERE Donnies 10 point is GREAT even for a computer illetrate like me, Geoff Wilson from down under spent the better part of 2 days with lots of patience showing me how to re size, I will start posting soo to see if it is OK. THANKS LOADS Don
 
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