HELP! Can I Repair This?

S

SilverSurfer57

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Jul 21, 2021
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IMG_0388.jpeg
As you can see, the mast is completed and glued into the hull. Is there a way to repair this break or do I need to drill out the mast and start over? TIA
 
Graham said:
Drill both ends and glue in a pin - a 1 inch panel pin would suffice, but cut the head off first. Don't use brass rod because it may bend when rigging.
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Hmmm. Unfortunately, I wasn't patient enough to wait for a reply. I used a brass rod, but I used a tiny amount of JB Weld, which I'm hoping will offset the flexibility of the brass. It's in a spot that is difficult to see, so I'm not worried about the gray glue color. The brass rod gave me the ability to make adjustments so that the mast would be straight.
 
SilverSurfer57 said:
Hmmm. Unfortunately, I wasn't patient enough to wait for a reply. I used a brass rod, but I used a tiny amount of JB Weld, which I'm hoping will offset the flexibility of the brass. It's in a spot that is difficult to see, so I'm not worried about the gray glue color. The brass rod gave me the ability to make adjustments so that the mast would be straight.
Click to expand...
I hope it works out for you. Regards.
 
SilverSurfer57 said:
Hmmm. Unfortunately, I wasn't patient enough to wait for a reply. I used a brass rod, but I used a tiny amount of JB Weld, which I'm hoping will offset the flexibility of the brass. It's in a spot that is difficult to see, so I'm not worried about the gray glue color. The brass rod gave me the ability to make adjustments so that the mast would be straight.
Click to expand...
That will probably work fine. Another approach that I have used to repair breaks of this sort, including larger ones like chair legs, is:
  • Choose an appropriate dowel or, in this case, a toothpick to join the two pieces
  • Drill holes in both pieces a little larger in diameter than the dowel (this will allow adjustments to the alignment)
  • Use epoxy glue (like JB Weld) to fasten the joint
  • Support the joint in the appropriate alignment until set
Fair winds!
 
AndyA said:
That will probably work fine. Another approach that I have used to repair breaks of this sort, including larger ones like chair legs, is:
  • Choose an appropriate dowel or, in this case, a toothpick to join the two pieces
  • Drill holes in both pieces a little larger in diameter than the dowel (this will allow adjustments to the alignment)
  • Use epoxy glue (like JB Weld) to fasten the joint
  • Support the joint in the appropriate alignment until set
Fair winds!
Click to expand...
Thanks. I'll keep that in mind for the future. Fortunately, my idea worked and the mast is very solid. JB Weld is a lifesaver.
 
I think I would do exactly as the OP has... with the exception of using a piece of steel rod, or a long finishing nail with the head cut off. I do have brass rod that is extremely stiff, so depending upon what type of brass rod was used, it too should be okay. The key, as noted by others is to brace and clamp till set to assure straightness, and then to carefully manage the tension of standing rigging to ensure it doesn't get pulled out of alignment. I too would be heartbroken if that had happened to me, but I think you found a good, workable solution. I wish you success in the rest of your build.
 
An advice:
Never glue the masts to the holes.
Surround them with strips of cardstock until they fit snugly.
Then with the rigging, they won't move.
You can make two small holes with the DREMMEL and insert a piece of
piano wire of the appropriate thickness, which will also serve as a drill bit.
Then glue with Titebond or similar
Regards
 
Llaut Mallorquin said:
An advice:
Never glue the masts to the holes.
Surround them with strips of cardstock until they fit snugly.
Then with the rigging, they won't move.
You can make two small holes with the DREMMEL and insert a piece of
piano wire of the appropriate thickness, which will also serve as a drill bit.
Then glue with Titebond or similar
Regards
Click to expand...
Hi, are you referring to stepping the masts in the deck? If so, I agree, that gives you flexibility in assuring everything is properly aligned.
 
seadeep said:
I think I would do exactly as the OP has... with the exception of using a piece of steel rod, or a long finishing nail with the head cut off. I do have brass rod that is extremely stiff, so depending upon what type of brass rod was used, it too should be okay. The key, as noted by others is to brace and clamp till set to assure straightness, and then to carefully manage the tension of standing rigging to ensure it doesn't get pulled out of alignment. I too would be heartbroken if that had happened to me, but I think you found a good, workable solution. I wish you success in the rest of your build.
Click to expand...
I prefer using wood in lieu of metal for this type of repair where feasible, as described in my earlier post (#5). This eliminates the concern with the metal pin bending, as well as making alignment easier. Of course the wood pin has to be strong enough to withstand the forces of the rigging. With the joint glued with epoxy, this is seldom an issue.
 
The piano wire, in addition to having several gauges to choose from, is stainless and does not bend, it only gives or flexes and then recovers.
It also serves as a drill bit with the same caliber.
try it
 
I had the same experience when lifting the glass case over one of my models. Unfortunately I did not lift it high enough and clipped the mast. I considered most of the repair solutions described above but finally decided to sleeve the two pieces. I fashioned a tube from mast coloured wrapping paper, making a tight fit on the two mast pieces. The tube was 1 thickness of the paper liberally coated with thin CA. This produced a thin but rigid tube which slipped over the lower part of the broken mast, providing a socket for the upper broken part The tube allowed a certain upward adjustment to be made, if needed, when re-rigging. the joint was finished off by the application of CA when the upper part of the mast was adjusted to its required height. When finished the sleeve/ tube repair was virtually invisible and gave a joint which encircled/encased the break, providing a very strong repair
This gives the basic outline of the repair. No great difficulty was encountered. Possibly worth a try. Points to watch-colour of paper to match mast; thin but rigid sleeve. In your case some adjustment of the the tops would be necessary - a bit fiddly but doable.

Good luck
 
i hate when that happens! as im working on rigging now, for some reason t keep breaking the rear boom and the bowsprit exactly at the same place. finally instead of just gluing them as i have been doing many times, i drilled each side slightly over sized to accept a metal shaft of a fishing hook. i used epoxy and adjusted everything to center till the epoxy set. its not a weak spot anymore... plus i have red tape on the tips to remind me to avoid getting too close to them. so far no breaks in 2 years.

good luck with your repair.
 
Some time ago I bought a bag of mixed tube and rod offcuts which can be useful for putting a sleeve over a broken spar. I have mended a bowsprit this way. Painted black, the bodge can pass as an intended fitting. These would not help in this posted case because there are not two stubs but they are useful to have.
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