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HELP! HOW DO I MOVE MY MODELS?

D

DFGINMIA

Joined
Jun 21, 2024
Messages
6
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I have about forty ship models I need to move across country. I'm planning on renting a truck just for them, but the problem is how do I move them without damaging them? I've done this before, so I have some experience, but I've always had problems. For example, I can't use tape on plexiglass cases, as it never comes off. I have had problems with Styrofoam peanuts because they scratch the paint.

Half of them, the largest ones (up to 40") are in plexiglass cases with wood bases. The models are not glued to the base and I'd rather not do that. I thought about turning the plexiglass over and filling the top with peanuts and sitting the models inside that (using the base as the "top"). I've done this before, but the Styrofoam peanuts scratch the model paint. Any suggestions for an alternative?

The other half of the models are "loose" in that they don't have individual cases. They average about 16" in length. Any ideas for how I might pack them? Again, I'll need to find some soft material to pack them with.

I'm moving from AZ to NC in October. Do I need to worry about heat inside the truck?

Your ideas will be greatly appreciated.

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Your best option is to forget about moving and stay put. ROTF

Seriously, though, with forty models of that quality, I would contact Mike Wall at https://www.shipmodel.com/. He is now semi-retired, according to his website, but remains available by phone or email apparently. He ran the American Ship Model Gallery, a top-end "brick and mortar" art gallery specializing in models and paintings of ships. He will certainly know which moving companies and shippers are experienced in handling ship models and can be trusted with your fine collection. Ship models and other delicate fine art pieces are handled by specialty shippers and movers, not your local "U-Haul" outfit! I would never consign a model for shipment to anyone other than a known expert in the field and I would never let a valuable model out of my hands for shipment unless it was insured for full replacement value based on an appraisal accepted by your insurance carrier. I learned these things from my experience repairing and restoring ship models.

Do not use "packing peanuts" or "noodles" ever! Objects "floating" in a box of packing peanuts which are at all heavier than the peanuts themselves, when transported by any manner that creates vibration (e.g. by highway vehicle,) will "sink" in the packing peanuts and come to rest on the bottom of the box where they will essentially fetch up, breaking spars and detail pieces. This phenomenon completely smashed the entire top hamper and bowsprit of a large three-masted schooner I'm currently repairing when some Amex employee with a room-temperature IQ just put it in a big cardboard box and then filled the box with packing peanuts. You realize, of course, that in this post-Pandemic age, "This side up." and "Fragile - Handle with care." mean nothing to the current crop of loading dock gorillas. The box was turned upside down and the cross-country trip ended with all three topmasts and the bowsprit snapped off and the pieces, together with the attached sails, and standing and running rigging rolled into a tangled mess in the bottom of the box. The packing peanuts, of course, were just fine.

Normally the practice is to secure all models to their baseboards and/or cradles, if loose, with soft fabric "straps" tied around the hull and base, so that the model will not move. The case is then secured around the model in a similar fashion. The cased model is then placed in a custom-built wooden packing crate which often has Styrofoam blocking between the case glass and the crate's plywood sides. The crates are sometimes shipped in specialized trucks having softer cushioned suspensions than usual and may even be afforded special handling, even going so far as to be "escorted" by designated "handlers," in some instances. The insurance companies are well aware of the risks and may impose such shipping requirements as a condition of insuring the cargo.

 
Thank you so much! I will definitely contact Mike. For the reasons you cited, I am moving the models myself. I've done it before (pre-Pandemic) but in the past few years I've built so many more models. I didn't think about the settling problem with peanuts -- great insight. I could put a thin layer of small bubble wrap underneath each model, but I still don't like peanuts, anyway. I need to find some very soft support on the sides of each model. The tops will be unsupported.

Aside from packing each model, I plan to load some of the bookshelves on which they are displayed into the truck, lash them down, and put the models on the shelves, tightly packed so each case won't move. That will provide additional insulation from the truck vibration, bumps, etc.

And yes, THIS IS MY LAST MOVE. The next time these models are moved it will be to the homes of the new owners!

Dave
 
If you're models are primarily of steamships, that makes it a bit easier. There's less to break and they are more compact in shape. Still, I would opt for tying them down firmly as I described rather than trying to "pack" them with any sort of material that is in contact with the model itself. More damage can be done to fine detail parts by contact with the packing material than anything else. The professionals first secure the model inside its case, then they secure the case inside a custom packing crate. You may have less to worry about if your cases are made of plexiglass, and if you are driving them yourself and, importantly, loading and unloading them yourself, you may get away without packing crates. Lots of mover's "blankets" may suffice. If glass, though, A plywood packing crate is required to prevent breakage for long-haul commercial trips. Since you've moved them before without a problem, it seems like it's only a matter of how much more work, rather than any change in procedure.
 
Bob Cleek said:
Ship models and other delicate fine art pieces are handled by specialty shippers and movers, not your local "U-Haul" outfit! I would never consign a model for shipment to anyone other than a known expert in the field and I would never let a valuable model out of my hands for shipment unless it was insured for full replacement value based on an appraisal accepted by your insurance carrier.
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I second and third this statement. I have had a number of models shipped across the US as well as several from the US to Switzerland, Finland and Italy without problems. These were moved by professional shippers with a lot of experience shipping antiques and other high value pieces.
Allan
 
Sounds like a DITY move. I’d do all the boxing, handling and driving myself. For the ships permanently fixed to a base, just build a crate around them. For those not fixed to a base, a piece of open cell foam cut to the dimensions of the crate with a cutout for the hull should suffice. I was able to buy a cheap futon in Japan to harvest all the foam I wanted to move a collection back to the US, but you might be able to source some from a place that does upholstery.
 
Before renting a truck, if possible I would try to check out its ride. Some of these U-Haul type trucks ride like they have no springs.

IMHO the major problem is to immobilize the model within its container. If the model is immobilized I don’t think that internal packing materials should NR needed.

Roger
 
I DIY crated 3 sailing ships from Hawaii to California, to Scotland, to Bahrain to California. No need to pay big buck for someone else to do it!!!

1. Build a box. (wood is best, you might be able to make cardboard work, depending on size).
2. Drill some 1/4" holes in the bottom board, that follow the top rails (or some unobstructed solid point).
2. Set the model on the bottom board.
4. Run yarn through the holes, over the top rail (or solid spot on the deck).
5. Run the yarn around the ship 3-4 times and tie it tight.

That secures the model to the bottom of the box.

Next, place the top on the box and nail/screw it all together.

Good luch!

I second discussion above about no packing peanuts or anything else in the crate.
 
Rubber contact cement will work, but it's nasty stuff for use on large areas and it will discolor over time, bleeding through the paper. Scotch repositionable spray mount is a lot easier to use. ("Scotch 77" spray mounting adhesive is permanent.) The repositionable adhesive makes positioning the paper a lot easier and removing the plans paper a lot easier when your done and want to use the board for another model. With contact cement you only get one chance and it's stuck for good. If you're making the customary building board with two tee-slot tracks, you only have to make one if you can use it over and over again.

When the paper is secured to the board, you may want to coat it with clear shellac. During the building process, the plan can take a beating over time. The shellac waterproofs the paper. Shellac is alcohol-based, so it should not cause the paper to move as water will. Shellac will also stabilize the paper from movement due to changes in humidity.

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DFGINMIA said:
I have about forty ship models I need to move across country. I'm planning on renting a truck just for them, but the problem is how do I move them without damaging them? I've done this before, so I have some experience, but I've always had problems. For example, I can't use tape on plexiglass cases, as it never comes off. I have had problems with Styrofoam peanuts because they scratch the paint.

Half of them, the largest ones (up to 40") are in plexiglass cases with wood bases. The models are not glued to the base and I'd rather not do that. I thought about turning the plexiglass over and filling the top with peanuts and sitting the models inside that (using the base as the "top"). I've done this before, but the Styrofoam peanuts scratch the model paint. Any suggestions for an alternative?

The other half of the models are "loose" in that they don't have individual cases. They average about 16" in length. Any ideas for how I might pack them? Again, I'll need to find some soft material to pack them with.

I'm moving from AZ to NC in October. Do I need to worry about heat inside the truck?

Your ideas will be greatly appreciated.

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Many years ago I designed Head Up Displays for fighter aircraft and we had similar issue.....how do we ship a very complex optical instrument with equally complex hi-end electronics across the world. Bearing in mind that This Way Up and Fragile won't stop some airport ramp sadist kicking said box out of the belly of a DC-10!
First we made a sturdy wooden box with internal cradles that exactly fit the bottom profile. We then added slide in top supports that perfectly cradled the top of the unit and those were secured in carefully cut slots. They were also cut so as to reach the lid line.
Now the HUD isn't going anywhere.
Next was a need to reduce the jarring vibration and shock from said ramp handling.
To do this we had a large outer cardboard box lined with dense foam rubber. Our aforementioned box sits in that exactly cut sponge that is on all sides, including the box lid.
When sealed you have a perfect cradle with shock absorbing foam all around.
We shipped thousand like this and never broke a single one.
While not directly applicable perhaps it all comes down to mounting it in a box so it can't move and with nothing touching soft parts.
Then shock absorbing the journey.
 
Many years ago my brother worked for a postal department for the summer. He found out that "Fragile, Handle with care" means drop, don't throw. Good luck!
 
Not sure about the budget implications, but I'd definitely consider hiring professionals--in addition to their knowledge and experience you'll get insurance as well. I've had models shipped around the world with no problems.
 
I tried shipping models and failed badly. One customer was satisfied with a box of extra parts. Another customer sent the mess back, totally smashed by the carrier. I was heartbroken by the loss. Carrier denied claim due to "inadequate packing methods", and I ate it. Schooling is so much cheaper than experience.
 
That collection looks like a professional move to me. Nice work. It would be sad to see all that spread over the freeway because of some random accident.
 
DFGINMIA said:
I have about forty ship models I need to move across country. I'm planning on renting a truck just for them, but the problem is how do I move them without damaging them? I've done this before, so I have some experience, but I've always had problems. For example, I can't use tape on plexiglass cases, as it never comes off. I have had problems with Styrofoam peanuts because they scratch the paint.

Half of them, the largest ones (up to 40") are in plexiglass cases with wood bases. The models are not glued to the base and I'd rather not do that. I thought about turning the plexiglass over and filling the top with peanuts and sitting the models inside that (using the base as the "top"). I've done this before, but the Styrofoam peanuts scratch the model paint. Any suggestions for an alternative?

The other half of the models are "loose" in that they don't have individual cases. They average about 16" in length. Any ideas for how I might pack them? Again, I'll need to find some soft material to pack them with.

I'm moving from AZ to NC in October. Do I need to worry about heat inside the truck?

Your ideas will be greatly appreciated.

View attachment 533100

View attachment 533101

View attachment 533102

View attachment 533103
Click to expand...
I have moved three two masted ships with full sails more than once. I made sure the ships were firmly anchored to their baseboards. Then I built a plywood case and anchored the baseboard to the base of the case. The plywood case was essentially the same size as the glass case I had them in. (Just a little bigger because of the 2" x 2" framework for the case.). They handled the moves just fine. The glass cases were moved separately by professional movers and did not survive the move.
 
Having made four similar moving trips a few years ago I suggest a circular lock for the truck. (I'm assuming you won't be driving straight through without a rest)

www.uline.com

Master Lock® Disc Padlock - Keyed-Alike H-4659 - Uline

Fully shielded design protects against bolt cutters. For storage lockers, sheds and workshops. Hardened steel shackle resists prying, cutting and sawing. Stainless steel body resists corrosion. Key retaining feature ensures padlock is not left unlocked. One key opens a whole set of locks. ULINE...
www.uline.com www.uline.com

Also bubble wrap can soak up some of the rough ride if you place it between the cargo bed and the crate(s)

And a steering wheel lock for the truck can't hurt either.
 
I have recently moved a model ship across country. I built Ochre's Flying Dutchman for my daughter and needed to get it from Ohio to LA. I purchased a plastic bin large enough to fit the ship, taped the ship to the base using low tac painters tape to secure it to he base and set it in the bin. I then rolled bubble wrap, (several layers), and put it along the sides of the ship, making sure it didn't move around the bin. I didn't use the lid because the ship stuck out over the top and I could also check on it to make sure everything was good. We had a great father-daughter trip across country, stopping at roadside and tourist attractions. The best part was when I brought the ship out, there was no damage! Im currently working on another ship that will also have to travel across country when completed. This one is for my son who also lives in LA. I'm looking forward to a father-son trip to deliver this one.
 
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