Help Needed Please

[DennisP]

Hi Folks,
I have a couple of questions for you as I am stuck. I started this wonderful hobby a year ago and built OcCre Polaris as my introduction model. I made a few mistakes but with your help I corrected them and completed the build to my satisfaction, it was traditional in that its plank on frame then a second very thin plank on top of the first. Nothing new for you guys. I didn’t experience any issues with the second planking and it came out well. I didn’t follow Occres instructions as they show them using a contact adhesive which is applied to both surfaces then put together where it sticks instantly, no second chances it has to be right first time. I used the white glue ( Speed bond its called ). It worked and the result was good. My new model has a different shaped hull and has different curves along its length. Using the white glue which needs several hours to set, I find on trying to stick the very first second plank that the plank does not want to mould to the shape of the hull, it projects from the hull. My first question is how do I get the second plank to mould to the hull ? Do I use cyano glue which is relatively quick to set and try holding the plank in place while it sets. Or do I soak the plank in water first before trying to stick it in place. I placed several pieces of the first planking in water and that made the first plank very malleable and I was able to mould them through a couple of different hull shapes.
Also, does glue have a shelf life ? I unfortunately have to build my models in my garage which this time of the year ( Northern hemisphere ) is cold probably 5 degrees C. I have a heater going while I am there but does the cold affect the glue’s ability to stick ?

 

[AllanKP69]

I didn’t follow Occres instructions

You made a wise decision. I have found yellow carpenter's glue works best for me. If the planks are spiled or pre-bent.in the direction of the breadth as well to match the curve, especially at the bow, they hold with finger pressure after a minute or less. This has been posted a number of times here at SoS, but in case you have not seen it, it may help you going forward.

Allan

 

[DennisP]

You made a wise decision. I have found yellow carpenter's glue works best for me. If the planks are spiled or pre-bent.in the direction of the breadth as well to match the curve, especially at the bow, they hold with finger pressure after a minute or less. This has been posted a number of times here at SoS, but in case you have not seen it, it may help you going forward.

Allan

Thank you Allen, heaven knows what time it is for you to reply so quickly, you must be a very early riser as you are somewhere in the USA.
I have seen that chaps videos and he is using that method on the first layer planking, but the second planking strips are extremely thin so would you advocate using the same method ie. taper the strips so that they fit just like the first layer ?

 

[AllanKP69]

heaven knows what time it is for you to reply so quickly, you must be a very early riser as you are somewhere in the USA.

We are debarking a cruise ship in about two hours once they clear customs so had to be up early. Should be back home in a few hours and back into the normal routine.

 

[ENJAY49]

Aways found wood glue the best, to overcome slow set time, use a few dabs of CA gel to hold till it dries.

 

[Van]

Hi Folks,
I have a couple of questions for you as I am stuck. I started this wonderful hobby a year ago and built OcCre Polaris as my introduction model. I made a few mistakes but with your help I corrected them and completed the build to my satisfaction, it was traditional in that its plank on frame then a second very thin plank on top of the first. Nothing new for you guys. I didn’t experience any issues with the second planking and it came out well. I didn’t follow Occres instructions as they show them using a contact adhesive which is applied to both surfaces then put together where it sticks instantly, no second chances it has to be right first time. I used the white glue ( Speed bond its called ). It worked and the result was good. My new model has a different shaped hull and has different curves along its length. Using the white glue which needs several hours to set, I find on trying to stick the very first second plank that the plank does not want to mould to the shape of the hull, it projects from the hull. My first question is how do I get the second plank to mould to the hull ? Do I use cyano glue which is relatively quick to set and try holding the plank in place while it sets. Or do I soak the plank in water first before trying to stick it in place. I placed several pieces of the first planking in water and that made the first plank very malleable and I was able to mould them through a couple of different hull shapes.
Also, does glue have a shelf life ? I unfortunately have to build my models in my garage which this time of the year ( Northern hemisphere ) is cold probably 5 degrees C. I have a heater going while I am there but does the cold affect the glue’s ability to stick ?

View attachment 566686

Chatgpt suggests this. (Sorry for the strange spacing)

Deluxe Materials – Roket Speed Bond is a cyanoacrylate (CA) adhesive formulated for fast bonding with slightly more gap-filling than ultra-thin CA. Deluxe Materials does not publish a single “operating temperature” line item, but their technical sheets and standard CA behavior give a well-accepted range.

Operating temperature ranges​

Application / curing

• 10–30 °C (50–86 °F)
• Ideal: 18–25 °C (65–77 °F)

Service temperature (after full cure)

• –20 to +80 °C (–4 to 176 °F)
• Strength gradually decreases as temperatures approach the upper end.

Storage

• 5–15 °C (41–59 °F) preferred
• Refrigeration is acceptable if the bottle is tightly sealed and kept dry
• Do not freeze

Behavior outside the ideal range​

• Below ~10 °C (50 °F):
  
  • Thicker viscosity
  • Slower or incomplete cure
  • More brittle bond
• Above ~30 °C (86 °F):
  
  • Very rapid (“flash”) curing
  • Reduced penetration and ultimate strength
• Above ~80 °C (176 °F) in service:
  
  • Softening and significant loss of bond strength

Practical tips​

• Let both the glue and parts reach room temperature before bonding.
• Moderate humidity gives the most predictable cure.
• For hot environments or parts that will regularly exceed ~80 °C, a two-part epoxy is a better choice.

 

[Bob Ellis]

Hi Folks,
I have a couple of questions for you as I am stuck. I started this wonderful hobby a year ago and built OcCre Polaris as my introduction model. I made a few mistakes but with your help I corrected them and completed the build to my satisfaction, it was traditional in that its plank on frame then a second very thin plank on top of the first. Nothing new for you guys. I didn’t experience any issues with the second planking and it came out well. I didn’t follow Occres instructions as they show them using a contact adhesive which is applied to both surfaces then put together where it sticks instantly, no second chances it has to be right first time. I used the white glue ( Speed bond its called ). It worked and the result was good. My new model has a different shaped hull and has different curves along its length. Using the white glue which needs several hours to set, I find on trying to stick the very first second plank that the plank does not want to mould to the shape of the hull, it projects from the hull. My first question is how do I get the second plank to mould to the hull ? Do I use cyano glue which is relatively quick to set and try holding the plank in place while it sets. Or do I soak the plank in water first before trying to stick it in place. I placed several pieces of the first planking in water and that made the first plank very malleable and I was able to mould them through a couple of different hull shapes.
Also, does glue have a shelf life ? I unfortunately have to build my models in my garage which this time of the year ( Northern hemisphere ) is cold probably 5 degrees C. I have a heater going while I am there but does the cold affect the glue’s ability to stick ?

View attachment 566686

I assume this is second planking? Which means, with OcCre, it's .6mm walnut? Anything that uses thin veneer is going to cause problems. Try to coax it into an edge bend and it splits. I would replace the half mm stock with 1mm, then you have a fighting chance of bending it. Better still get something like cherry (since we don't get pear or boxwood in the UK (I blame the government!!) Dry fit and when you're ready a spot of CN at the stem then PVA. Use clamps made from paper
clips attached to the bulkheads. Or the odd spot of CN if you have to hold it with your fingers.

 

[Friedhelm]

Hallo, schau dir mal Olha BaAnhängen von Dateientchvarov auf YouTube an. Sie hat einige clevere Ideen auf ihren verschiedenen YouTube-Kanälen.