Help with blackening brass

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I need help blacking brass eyelets and wire.

Apparently there is a clear coat on pieces and I’ve tried several different ways to oxidize, but still have very uneven finish on the pieces(brass still showing)

ideas?
1. On removing the clear coat
2. Getting a even oxidation
3. Finishing (protecting) after oxidation

Thanks in advance for any help
 
Have you tried any of these methods that I found by searching on the internet:

Submerge the piece in heated vinegar. Apparently the clearcoat will delaminate from the metal.
Use a strong solvent based paint stripper.
Apply a laquer paint thinner or acetone.
 
Have you tried any of these methods that I found by searching on the internet:

Submerge the piece in heated vinegar. Apparently the clearcoat will delaminate from the metal.
Use a strong solvent based paint stripper.
Apply a laquer paint thinner or acetone.
Thanks for the ideas
I’ve tried paint thinner, sanding them and Jax metal prep. I will try the vinegar
The wife will kill me if I use the solvent in the house
 
I need help blacking brass eyelets and wire.

Apparently there is a clear coat on pieces and I’ve tried several different ways to oxidize, but still have very uneven finish on the pieces(brass still showing)

ideas?
1. On removing the clear coat
2. Getting a even oxidation
3. Finishing (protecting) after oxidation

Thanks in advance for any help
Successfully blackening brass with available patina solutions comes down to a few critical steps that must be followed carefully.

The most important, IMHO, is surface preparation (critical). Clean the brass thoroughly. Remove oils, oxides, and fingerprints. I've been using a mild degreaser like dish soap, rubbing alcohol, or acetone, or an acid dip (like a lemon juice + salt rinse, or dilute vinegar). If needed, lightly scuff the surface with fine steel wool (0000) or a Scotch-Brite pad for better reaction.

Second, is following the instructions of your blackening solution
 
I need help blacking brass eyelets and wire.

Apparently there is a clear coat on pieces and I’ve tried several different ways to oxidize, but still have very uneven finish on the pieces(brass still showing)

ideas?
1. On removing the clear coat
2. Getting a even oxidation
3. Finishing (protecting) after oxidation

Thanks in advance for any help
I am using selenium acid solution for my blackening processes for brass and copper.
The application time depends on what degree you want to achieve on the metal part. Because an oxide film builds on the metal surface the blackening can be easily be removed by a strong rubbing (so you can also adjust the degree of blackening by rubbing), unless you dry the blackened part and cover it with a transparent lacquer or varnish without rubbing. I have the permission to use my admirals nail lacquer.
Small Notice : Sometimes I also apply a droplet on the allready finished or mounted brass or copper parts on the model the solution directly with a thin brush and let it dry.
Detailed ınfo in the link below:
Happy modelling :cool:
PS: approx. 200 ml conc SA should be enough (also reusable for many times) for your life time for blackening small modelling parts or surfaces.
Please consider also the specs of this chemical( it is strong poisonous and do not breath it directly)
 
I've used Brass Black with the most success, also used that other manufacturer for pewter and such. All with mixed success. I clean with alcohol and acetone, let it soak, all that stuff. And then find that maybe 10% of whatever I'm doing (nails, whatever) just don't want to blacken. Take another cleaning and blackening. It can be touchy. I sometimes end up having to touch it up with paint.
 
One of the first things I look for when purchasing brass or any metal I plan on "blackening", is to make sure it is not "coated". Coating the metal is a property that's added purposefully during the manufacturing process to PREVENT tarnishing, the exact opposite of what we want. After all, we are trying to tarnish it. Who wants brass and other non-ferrous metals protected? Jewelers. Depending on the brass manufacturer, most "coated" brass sheets will say so, in small print on their label.

I learned this the hard way, of course. I used Acetone to remove the coating. It doesn't take a lot. A shallow, glass dish, nitrile gloves, and a small brush. Submerge your brass, let it sit for 30 seconds, and then brush the dissolved coating away. Gloves aren't necessary, as Acetone is not caustic, but it has a very low evaporation temperature. If you use ungloved hands, it will feel cold and will evaporate quickly from your hands, taking your skin's natural oils with it. Nothing a little hand lotion won't fix. And you can always just use tweezers and the brush without gloves. And it only takes 2 minutes, so you can just do it outside, boom! Once the coating is gone, you just follow Jim's steps, and you will have beautifully blackened brass.

I use two blackeners, but my go-to is Casey's.

I do have some experience with solvents and their application. I once took some MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone), and decided to use it to remove some tar from the rocker boards, under the front doors of my 1976 Lincoln Mark V. It removed the tar no problem, along with the factory baked-on paint. BOOM, I was down to bare metal in 1 minute flat. :oops: ROTF

Sometimes I wonder how I reached my current age. :rolleyes:
 
I have used a Micro Engineering blackening agent called Rail Weathering Solution with great success for years.

I clean the brass parts with 70% isopropanol first. Then dunk the parts in distilled water and swish about. Then put it/them in a solution of the weathering solution. I usually have a separate bottle of a mix of the solution and distilled water, which I made up. The strength of the mix depends on the pieces I am blackening BUT I have generally found a two parts distilled water to one part weathering solution works for me. If it’s not strong enough add more weathering solution. I move the part around a little with one of those disposable dental brush thingies to ensure an even blackening. Once the brass part is blackened sufficiently remove it (with tweezers), dunk and swish in distilled water to stop the chemical reaction and then remove it. Place on a soft disposable shop type towel and then using another piece of the towel burnish it. That removes any loose flaky crud from the brass part, which is the reaction of the solution and the brass. I use disposable surgical type gloves handling this stuff. The used solution can be stored in a small container and used again. Like everything, test and experiment.

Link to a previous post I made and photos of the Rail Weathering solution:

 
One of the first things I look for when purchasing brass or any metal I plan on "blackening", is to make sure it is not "coated". Coating the metal is a property that's added purposefully during the manufacturing process to PREVENT tarnishing, the exact opposite of what we want. After all, we are trying to tarnish it. Who wants brass and other non-ferrous metals protected? Jewelers. Depending on the brass manufacturer, most "coated" brass sheets will say so, in small print on their label.

I learned this the hard way, of course. I used Acetone to remove the coating. It doesn't take a lot. A shallow, glass dish, nitrile gloves, and a small brush. Submerge your brass, let it sit for 30 seconds, and then brush the dissolved coating away. Gloves aren't necessary, as Acetone is not caustic, but it has a very low evaporation temperature. If you use ungloved hands, it will feel cold and will evaporate quickly from your hands, taking your skin's natural oils with it. Nothing a little hand lotion won't fix. And you can always just use tweezers and the brush without gloves. And it only takes 2 minutes, so you can just do it outside, boom! Once the coating is gone, you just follow Jim's steps, and you will have beautifully blackened brass.

I use two blackeners, but my go-to is Casey's.

I do have some experience with solvents and their application. I once took some MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone), and decided to use it to remove some tar from the rocker boards, under the front doors of my 1976 Lincoln Mark V. It removed the tar no problem, along with the factory baked-on paint. BOOM, I was down to bare metal in 1 minute flat. :oops: ROTF

Sometimes I wonder how I reached my current age. :rolleyes:
That MEK is sone nasty stuff
I’m going to try the acetone on my next batch,
Is Jax brand blacking any good?
 
I just realized, I've used 3 blackening agents, Casey's, Birchwood's, and Sculpt Nouveau. I think the reason I said 2 earlier is Casey's and Birchwood's are almost identical in packaging color scheme. Both work great.

I've not used Jax. The other brand I've used, with very good results, is Sculpt Nouveau. That is the brand. The "Antiquing" turns copper or brass black. The "Tiffany Green" turns copper a greenish/gray color, which I've used on copper-plated hulls for a realistic look, also very good. If I remember correctly, Sculpt Nouveau is a little more expensive than Casey's or, in the photo, Birchwood's, per US oz., but at the time, I couldn't find Casey's.

thumbnail (4).jpg
 
The MEK is nasty, but there are some things we had in our lab that made it look like vanilla ice cream. Like Sodium (Na) is stored in water as it is very unstable. Cut off a piece and throw it in a body of water, and BOOM...violent exothermic reaction, producing Hydrogen and Sodium Hydroxide. When the Hydrogen bubbles exit the water and meet Mr. Oxygen, the heat produced ignites it. I still can't believe you can buy it on Amazon.
 
I need help blacking brass eyelets and wire.

Apparently there is a clear coat on pieces and I’ve tried several different ways to oxidize, but still have very uneven finish on the pieces(brass still showing)

ideas?
1. On removing the clear coat
2. Getting a even oxidation
3. Finishing (protecting) after oxidation

Thanks in advance for any help
If you have difficulty with removing the coating try brake fluid. Soak the parts in it and brush it with and old tooth brush if necessary. Rinse it off with some alcohol. I use Brass Black to bracken the brass. It works well.

Rob
 
This seems very counter-intuitive to me, but I find diluting the brass blackener 1:1 with water makes all the difference in getting a good finish. I’m only guessing at why that is, but with undiluted solution, the black coat just rubs right off, while the diluted solution leaves a uniformly black finish that does not rub off.
 
This seems very counter-intuitive to me, but I find diluting the brass blackener 1:1 with water makes all the difference in getting a good finish. I’m only guessing at why that is, but with undiluted solution, the black coat just rubs right off, while the diluted solution leaves a uniformly black finish that does not rub off.
Your recommandation and experience is right. Most of the brass blackener are based on sellenium based products and i use selenium acid (blueish colored liquid) and used also for making brass or copper pieces (home articles like bedframes,lamps etc.) to look antique . I use industrial grade and diluted it 1:1with water.
In the link given below is a demonstration. I could'nt manage to translate it to english .Video is in life time(not accelerated). Important 1.Remove all the dirt from the surface (coating lacquer etc) 2.Rub after the first dip (10-15 sec.) the existing oxide film firmly with a soft cloth intensively to remove the inresistant oxide film 3. A very short dip(1-2 seconds) and rubbing again. At the end you obtain a good looking darkened metal effect.
Happy Modeling to all SoS-Members
 
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