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Help with paint for a fresh beginner

Joined
Feb 18, 2025
Messages
26
Points
48

Hello folks,

I got myself a Heller Victory 1:100 which would be my first ever build for this scale. I am planning to do most of the painting with a airbrush, so I started to research and my head is already spinning from all the options. So here are my questions:

What would be the best type of color to use on this plastic model ? I have seen lots of posts talking about water based acrylic - is this the best solution?

I have also seen people start painting with a primer first - is it necessary to use primer for acrylic paint ?

In NZ I can get Tamiya and also Vallejo - which one is better in y our opinion for airbrush.

Thanks in advance.

Isaac
 
Most Vallejo paints I buy are already for airbrush use.

Can't say much about primer use, but for light colors like yellow, white or grey may need primer to make a solid base.
 
Most Vallejo paints I buy are already for airbrush use.

Can't say much about primer use, but for light colors like yellow, white or grey may need primer to make a solid base.
Thanks.

Do they need any kind of thinning or they are ready to use as is?

Cheers,

I.
 
Thanks.

Do they need any kind of thinning or they are ready to use as is?

Cheers,

I.
if you stick with Vallejo Air, you should be good to go with an airbrush. That`s what I have used in the past and it works great. I am sure there are others, but this is the one I have used
 
Not sure how good you are with airbrush, but you can adjust the air pressure and thickness to get a nice even paint.

For some colors, you need multiple thin coats to get a good final look.
 
Primer is an absolute must. I use regular primer from a rattle can, but stay away from certain brands of filler-primer as they will clog up very fine details such as wire mesh.
 
Not sure how good you are with airbrush, but you can adjust the air pressure and thickness to get a nice even paint.

For some colors, you need multiple thin coats to get a good final look.
I am not good at all with this... never done it before. I am watching heaps of Youtube clips to get some basic information however I already know that only practice, trial and error will do the trick. Thank you.
 
Primer is an absolute must. I use regular primer from a rattle can, but stay away from certain brands of filler-primer as they will clog up very fine details such as wire mesh.
I plan to use the Vallejo paints, primer, thinner, flow improver and cleaner - this way I hope I to minimize these issues. BTW - what is the common ratio for thinning ? I have seen people mix the thinner and flow improver 50:50 into a small bottle and then mix with paint. Is there a rule of thumb for thinning acrylic or is it a matter of experience or eyeballing?

Thank you for your support.
 
I plan to use the Vallejo paints, primer, thinner, flow improver and cleaner - this way I hope I to minimize these issues. BTW - what is the common ratio for thinning ? I have seen people mix the thinner and flow improver 50:50 into a small bottle and then mix with paint. Is there a rule of thumb for thinning acrylic or is it a matter of experience or eyeballing?

Thank you for your support.
My experience with airbrush painting is recent too. I have read and used thinning to get a consistency of skim milk for the paint. This works well but as others have said you need to regulate the flow of paint from the brush by adjusting the air pressure first and then fine tuning with the trigger to fine tune the paint flow, also the distance from the target area affects the outcome.
I have used mostly Vallejo and Humbrol and both are good.
On important element of airbrushing is the cleaning of the brush after each colour use. This is more time consuming than washing a fibre brush, and I recommend not taking any shortcuts and use isopropyl alcohol as part of the cleaning regime.
After my recent endeavors I would recommend airbrush for larger areas to be painted or multiple smaller parts, but for other elements of a ship build the common fibre paintbrushes are my preference.
Happy modeling.
 
My experience with airbrush painting is recent too. I have read and used thinning to get a consistency of skim milk for the paint. This works well but as others have said you need to regulate the flow of paint from the brush by adjusting the air pressure first and then fine tuning with the trigger to fine tune the paint flow, also the distance from the target area affects the outcome.
I have used mostly Vallejo and Humbrol and both are good.
On important element of airbrushing is the cleaning of the brush after each colour use. This is more time consuming than washing a fibre brush, and I recommend not taking any shortcuts and use isopropyl alcohol as part of the cleaning regime.
After my recent endeavors I would recommend airbrush for larger areas to be painted or multiple smaller parts, but for other elements of a ship build the common fibre paintbrushes are my preference.
Happy modeling.
Hi,

I heard about the skim milk idea however I have no idea what it means really. I know about the circle of issues I.E paint, pressure, distance etc. - so I guess trial and error will be my friend here...

To minimize any unnecessary issues, I will invest a little to get the paints and other chemicals to help me have a good start although I know it will not be easy. But easy is not a good challenge therefore I will work hard to get a reasonable outcome.

As this is my first ever big project - I will go slow, research a lot and prepare myself to learn from my mistakes, and hopefully learn how to avoid them with the help of this forum.

Thanks for your remarks especially about the cleaning process - I guess doing this right will save me issues too.

Cheers.

I.
 
Hello Isaac, welcome! For the sake of clarity, people are talking about the Vallejo Model Air series and you could do worse than start with No.s 71.033 (yellow ochre) and 71.251 (Nato Black). For rattle can primer, I would recommend Tamiya, Humbrol or probably anything else sold in your nearest model shop. These tend to be a bit finer and less likely to fill in detail than auto or general purpose cans. For airbrushing, some people encourage sticking with the one brand, and vallejo do a grey, a white and various colours in the small bottles.

I find vallejo paints to be very good though the yellow ochre can be a bit tricky, the pigment seems to clog the airbrush. It's a good idea to get a bottle of flow improver, this mitigates blocking.

I'm sure you'll have searched the site for others build logs - there will be many - and I hope no-one is going to mind me pointing you at one on Model Ship World as well, https://modelshipworld.com/topic/28748-hms-victory-by-bill97-finished-heller-1100-plastic. Bill's log is an excellent, step by step, detailed log that fills in many of the gaps in the instructions. Speaking of which, unless you already have them, the updated, all colour Heller instructions are downloadable from their website i.e. no need to pay for these, and there are two books which you might want to keep an eye for on ebay: The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships - by C. Nepean Longridge, and The 100-Gun Ship Victory by John McKay. You won't need them straight away but may want them down the line.

Good luck, I recommend creating a build log, you'll get lots of help that way.

Kevin
 
You may want to acquire the recent book "Sailing Ships From Plastic Kits" Jang Seaforth 40.00; many inspiring sections on building the Heller models by masters of the craft with incredible color pics throughout that really show great detail (and paint and Victory paint variants thru time). I have an extensive modeling library and this is one of the few books I have read cover to cover (OK, on the porcelain goddess); I was often incredulous at what can be achieved with devoted care - and I've been at this 50+ years. Even the things I didn't care about in actual modeling were amazing and absorbing. Maybe more Metamucil???
 
Hi Neuman, both Tamiya and Vallejo are excellent paints that can be either brushed or sprayed. Personally I prefer (Gunze), Mr. Hobby as I find it through cures harder than Tamiya. I have never had any issues with delamination with the Gunze when used over a primer or direct to an etched (White Vinegar Wash) plastic surface.
I try to avoid using primers because they can obliterate extra fine detailing in the plastic.
As a thinner or reducer for these acrylic brands I use Isopropyl Alcohol purchased from my local Westgate Bunnings store. To clean out the airbrush I use the Isopropyl alcohol until the majority of colour dissipates and then use ordinary tap water to finalise the clean-out.
If you want to practice using an airbrush, use water and spray onto a card board box ie pull trigger and move the spray (right to left or vice versa) release the trigger. etc. once your comfortable with that and you manage to control the trigger and can spray in a parallel line go and do the same to the inside of the box. This will tell how acurate you are at pressing/releasing the trigger so you don't double up on the corners and get lots of runs. Practice feathering the trigger ie squeezing the trigger lightly to vary the amount of volume released at the nozzle. When you achieve all this, try out with paint.
My opinion and kinda recommendation. Also like me you'll find challengers in sourcing modelling stuff here in NZ unless your into toy choo choo's. All the best and welcome to this wonderful SOS site... cheers.
 
Hello Isaac, welcome! For the sake of clarity, people are talking about the Vallejo Model Air series and you could do worse than start with No.s 71.033 (yellow ochre) and 71.251 (Nato Black). For rattle can primer, I would recommend Tamiya, Humbrol or probably anything else sold in your nearest model shop. These tend to be a bit finer and less likely to fill in detail than auto or general purpose cans. For airbrushing, some people encourage sticking with the one brand, and vallejo do a grey, a white and various colours in the small bottles.

I find vallejo paints to be very good though the yellow ochre can be a bit tricky, the pigment seems to clog the airbrush. It's a good idea to get a bottle of flow improver, this mitigates blocking.

I'm sure you'll have searched the site for others build logs - there will be many - and I hope no-one is going to mind me pointing you at one on Model Ship World as well, https://modelshipworld.com/topic/28748-hms-victory-by-bill97-finished-heller-1100-plastic. Bill's log is an excellent, step by step, detailed log that fills in many of the gaps in the instructions. Speaking of which, unless you already have them, the updated, all colour Heller instructions are downloadable from their website i.e. no need to pay for these, and there are two books which you might want to keep an eye for on ebay: The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships - by C. Nepean Longridge, and The 100-Gun Ship Victory by John McKay. You won't need them straight away but may want them down the line.

Good luck, I recommend creating a build log, you'll get lots of help that way.

Kevin
Hi Kevin,

Thanks heaps for the great info - I will follow it the best I can. Still in my research phase so box is closed right now (OK...I had a peek) until I will gather the info and material needed since I am starting from scratch..
 
You may want to acquire the recent book "Sailing Ships From Plastic Kits" Jang Seaforth 40.00; many inspiring sections on building the Heller models by masters of the craft with incredible color pics throughout that really show great detail (and paint and Victory paint variants thru time). I have an extensive modeling library and this is one of the few books I have read cover to cover (OK, on the porcelain goddess); I was often incredulous at what can be achieved with devoted care - and I've been at this 50+ years. Even the things I didn't care about in actual modeling were amazing and absorbing. Maybe more Metamucil???
Hi

Thanks for that - I will look into it.

Cheers

I.
 
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