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HM Cutter Lady Nelson 1:64 - Build Log

Joined
Dec 8, 2019
Messages
150
Points
133

Location
Dublin, Ireland
Hey, starting a build log here.
I decided to go with HM Cutter Lady Nelson 1:64 from Amati as per recommendation in this forum. I ordered it on Amati website and after a week or so, it has arrived.
I wasn't sure if I want to start doing 3 things in parallel, an actual build, videos and build log. Long story short, I am writing this new post in the new thread under build logs forum with other like minded folks :).

My goal is to share progress and mistakes, get an advise from seasoned builders. I am new to this, so would be great to have some support.
 
Well looks like I get the first seat in the viewing gally for this build, it will be fun to watch, as this is on my do eventually list.
Thank you and welcome.
30 mins after I posted I was under the impression that no one is interested and got this idea to delete the thread. It seems like I was wrong :)
 
Thank you and welcome.
30 mins after I posted I was under the impression that no one is interested and got this idea to delete the thread. It seems like I was wrong :)
LOL… You were right — we’re a bit slow here, but once the thread was found, it definitely picked up interest. ;)
 
Not sure how the instruction read, but you might find it easier to plank the false deck before glueing it to the frame.

It allows for easier work and you just cut out the slots around the bulkheads.
The instructions say to glue the false deck, then a few more on top, and then cut the bulkheads before putting planks.
I will have a look if it is possible to plank and what it takes. Thank you for the suggestion.
 
The one thing I am thinking is that I would need to be using nails for false deck to make the correct curve as PVA wouldn’t be enough. And it means that nails should go before planking. Thinking out load to bounce some ideas.
 
The instructions say to glue the false deck, then a few more on top, and then cut the bulkheads before putting planks.
I will have a look if it is possible to plank and what it takes. Thank you for the suggestion.
I agree that the bulkhead supports need to be removed so planks can be laid over the tips of them. It is not that hard to plank a false deck after it is installed. I recommend the model frame be mounted in a keel vise so it is steady and your hands are free to work on the deck.

For Lady Nelson, the sides of the vise need to extend upward to be able reach and clamp onto the false keel because the keel does not extend below the bulkheads and there is nothing for straight jaws of a vise to grab onto. In my model below, the deck planking is different, because the frames extend above the deck, so I had to plank around them. All you need to do is trim the strips carefully so they fit.
1777664750889.png
 
The one thing I am thinking is that I would need to be using nails for false deck to make the correct curve as PVA wouldn’t be enough. And it means that nails should go before planking. Thinking out load to bounce some ideas.
Dont try fighting a flat false deck by trying to force it to bend. It's a real pain to hold a springy deck down. The glue joints will not be strong if gaps are present. You should give yourself as many advantages as possible so you don't have to force the false deck to into shape while trying to glue it to the curved edges of the bulkheads.

Precurve the fals deck by soaking it in water for a half hour, then place it against the curved suface of a large coffee can or small bucket or similar object to act as a form. Use rubber bands, lots of them, to hold the false deck to the curved surface of the form and let it dry overnight. The next day, the false deck will be curved to shape. When removed from the form, the false deck will spring back and loose a bit of its curvature, but should have enough curve left to fit will to the ships frame. If not, curve the deck on a form that has a smaller radius and attempt to pre-curve the wood again. The curvature of the wood may still be either a bit too shallow or too deep when fitted, but a lot of the force required to make it fit properly to the bulkhead edges will no longer be required. If the deck is not planked, you can use fine pins to pin it to the bulkheads. You can also use LOTS of rubber bands wrapped around the entire model to hold wooden blocks, or better yet Legos, which in turn press the deck to the curved bulkhead edges while the glue dries. When rubber bands and blocks are not practical, your can use weights to hold the deck down. I have calibrated steel blocks which make good weights.

After the glue dried, you can either remove the pins (if used) or pound them in a bit deeper to submerged their heads into the false deck and leave them there, and plank over them later.

Curved beams were installed to provide camber (thwartship curvature) to the deck. Here you can see a pre-curved false deck about to be glued in position and held there by either pins, blocks and rubber bands, or weights, or a combination of any of these.
1777692366830.png
 
The instructions say to glue the false deck, then a few more on top, and then cut the bulkheads before putting planks.
Kurt S. is giving good advice. This will be easier in the long run. You may want to try shaping the plywood sheet on the model without the deck planks after wetting it as Kurt suggests or even try it dry. and pin it in place. If you hit it with a hot air gun (or, heaven forbid, her hair drier) for some minutes it will hold its shape nicely. with the round up (rounding or camber).

Maybe just plank the decks like a ship without the plywood layer??? Just a thought.

Allan
 
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