HM Gun Brig Adder 1797 - Vanguard Models - 1:64

I agree here with Allan
In my personal opinion and not knowledge, I would think that the sliding keels were not coppered.
First of all it would be additional weight for lifting up.
Second the keels were relatively easily to be exchanged, if after years the would have some damages caused by woodworm
Third, the keels were solid wood, so no problematic if they would slightly rot..... no need of watertightness like on a hull

On the other hand, the rudders of ships were also coppered

But looking at the detailed drawings - there was so small space between the sliding keel and the shaft, that all copper sheathing of the keel would produce maybe some problem with the lifting - imagine, if one copper sheat would stand away, or one nail would be slightly too long etc....

View attachment 471903

View attachment 471904

These are drawings of the HMS Cynthia (1796)


I think they had more problems to make the inside of the keel shaft watertight - maybe this part was coppered (but not visible in a model)

BTW: kenthistory is a very good page with often interesting and complete technical data of ships and the classes - worth to have a visit or two or three
thank you Uwek
 
Clean and accurate work
One hint related to the photoetched parts, which you paint.
With this method you have still some small areas where the part is still fixed with the sheet
Try once, maybe with your next project, to blacken the parts after removing and cleaning the parts forom the sheet
Blackening is very easy to make and has (according my subjective personal opinion), a better appearance
 
Clean and accurate work
One hint related to the photoetched parts, which you paint.
With this method you have still some small areas where the part is still fixed with the sheet
Try once, maybe with your next project, to blacken the parts after removing and cleaning the parts forom the sheet
Blackening is very easy to make and has (according my subjective personal opinion), a better appearance
Thank you Uwek. I used the Ammo mig liquid, the stronger one, for last project, but found it unsatisfying. With paint and laquer, they are much stronger during handling. Cheers
 
Thank you Uwek. I used the Ammo mig liquid, the stronger one, for last project, but found it unsatisfying. With paint and laquer, they are much stronger during handling. Cheers
Maybe you try Balistol - it is more blueing like steel

1727267160509.jpeg

or the product of Birchwood Casey - more black
 
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