HMS ALERT 1777 Trident model by HongBin

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Is this the final design of the kit or have you changed the after deadwood? By this way it's not really possible to get the right shape of the area. There has to be more timber under the part with the steps. In your 3D model this detail looks right.
If you look at the original drawings, Alert did not have a stepped line. It has to be a curved line.

By the original ship the step of bearding line was cut in thicker wood. The deadwood wasn't laminated.

Also with this points, your kit is really well designed.
 
AnobiumPunctatum said:
Is this the final design of the kit or have you changed the after deadwood? By this way it's not really possible to get the right shape of the area. There has to be more timber under the part with the steps. In your 3D model this detail looks right.
If you look at the original drawings, Alert did not have a stepped line. It has to be a curved line.

By the original ship the step of bearding line was cut in thicker wood. The deadwood wasn't laminated.

Also with this points, your kit is really well designed.
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Hello, Anobium Punctatum. This is a very good question. We are trying our best to restore the hull structure. The standard method of making dead wood is very simple for us to process, but it is very demanding for enthusiasts. Our original intention is that most of the enthusiasts can successfully complete. After all, it's just an entry-level product, and we're still doing various tests. Maybe it won't be long before a more resilient KIT can be produced. Thank you very much for your advice.
 
AnobiumPunctatum said:
Hello Trident,

thanks for your answer. With a little bit of cherry or pear wood it's quite easy for an model builder to change this if he want - I am quite sure, that I will do this small change. I am happy if I can get one kit. I have stopped the reconstruction I was working for now.
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We are very willing to cooperate with you in this attempt. We will provide the corresponding refitted parts. You can tell me your ideas and requirements. Let's make him more fun together.
 
Hi Trident,

wow your answer has me really surprised. Thumbsup
I have two different ideas which we can discuss.
1. Let's do it in the original way - which is the most challanging for the model builder (which you also think).
2. Let's make a simplification that nobody will see at the finished model - which is perhaps the better idea for a kit. Can you send me please a foto of the different parts of your after deadwood and a 2d drawing of the deadwood as PN or per mail. How thick are the different parts?
In the drawing you can see my first attempt for a solution of the deadwood, which I did a few years ago.

2014-10-27 Alert Keel - CR.jpg

I will add there the necessary parts for the my idea. If you think you can realize this, it would be fine
 
0There is a self-made tool, very practical, I hope to inspire you some.
AnobiumPunctatum said:
Hi Trident,

wow your answer has me really surprised. Thumbsup
I have two different ideas which we can discuss.
1. Let's do it in the original way - which is the most challanging for the model builder (which you also think).
2. Let's make a simplification that nobody will see at the finished model - which is perhaps the better idea for a kit. Can you send me please a foto of the different parts of your after deadwood and a 2d drawing of the deadwood as PN or per mail. How thick are the different parts?
In the drawing you can see my first attempt for a solution of the deadwood, which I did a few years ago.

View attachment 103306

I will add there the necessary parts for the my idea. If you think you can realize this, it would be fine
Click to expand...
In fact, what you want to do is what we have been doing. In trying different processing methods and restoring the original structure to the greatest extent, I can provide the specifications of dead wood. But one thing to note is that our existing dead wood has positioning function. If you follow your idea, you may have a lot of questions about rib positioning. You can tell me your original idea, or your solution, and I'll make a difference demonstration on the CAD software so that you can confirm your idea. My English is not very good, and sometimes I can't understand your meaning very well. Please forgive me.
 
I checked my research. The original drawing doesn't give a hint of a stepping of bearding line is right for the cutter. So it's also possible to use the stepping line, as you did for your design. I couldn't find the reason, why I choosed a bearding line in the moment.

The foto shows a test-installement of the deadwood which I did a few years ago. It was build in the original way. For glueing the pieces together, I drilled 0.5 mm holes and use brass pins.
Alert deadwood.jpg

In fact, what you want to do is what we have been doing. In trying different processing methods and restoring the original structure to the greatest extent, I can provide the specifications of dead wood.
Click to expand...

That's right, The easiest way is to change the way, you laminate the parts of the deadwood. For my idea it's not necessary to change the position of the frames or cant frames.
If I follow my old design the deadwood has a thickness of 4.2mm upper the stepping line and from 6mm under. This may vary by your design.
You can build each timber of the deadwood from 3 parts (as you always did), one center piece one for the port and one for the starbord side

1. Take a wood of 1mm thickness and cut the correct shape of the whole deadwood. On this the parts for the starbord and port side of the deadwood will be glued
2. Port side: take wood which is 2.5mm thick (half of the deadwood thicknes under the stepping line - half of the center plate). Cut the 4 pieces for the different parts of the deadwood and mill the part over the stepping of bearding line to the correct shape and thickness.
3. The prepared parts glue on the center plate (if possible make small markings in the center plate and the back side of the visible parts to make the positioning easier.
4. Repeat the steps 2 and 3 for the starbord side.

That's it. The model-builder must give the correct shape under the stepping line. If everyhing was done in the right way, the deadwood should look like similiar to the foto with a stepping instead of a bearding line.

Perhaps it is also possible to do this without the center piece, but then there is a marking necessary to glue the pieces nicely together. I don't know if you can mill both sides of a piece.
 
HI AnobiumPunctatum
We have tested your proposal before. Because of the difficulty, we rejected it. After all, we need to ensure that most of the people can make it smoothly. We can provide you with complete ribs, or we can improve the ribs according to your requirements, but this may result in the failure to complete the project smoothly.
 
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