HMS ENTERPRISE by Keith 1:48 scale. New Kit from M.D.

[TRS7139]

Every thing looking spot on Kieth. Yep my CAF kit also has those gratings and they are quite ridiculous to try and construct. They also are impossible to get the char off so come out dirty.

A quick question - How does your kit (which is impressively accurate) show how the cathead tails finish? Are they bolted to the underside of the deck beams?
Cheers Grant

FWIW on the gratings, i found it quite helpful to get them secured using my small shop vise.
Once located properly you can press them in with fair force using the vise, nothing really twists or snaps, only ones I needed to alter/repair were on the very edges.

 

[GrantTyler]

Hi Keith. Your ricochet rabbit is bounding along fantastically. Cheers Grant

 

[Keef]

I have actually started with the planking of the inner hull bulwarks and moved on to the foremast bits. Amazingly they fit exactly in position with number 3 and 4 forecastle deck beams. I have also fitted number 1 forecastle beam, but shall not fit any more as yet as the foreward guns have to be fitted under these beams. There are 8 in total and it would be very difficult to the guns with all the beams in position. I have made up and placed the galley stove in its position under the forecastle decking, not including the P.E. parts though, as the very intricate parts are too much for the limited movement of my left hand. I know my limitations

 

[TRS7139]

Very nice Keith.
If you haven't already don't be in too big a hurry to glue up beams past #1 primarily because while the supplied knees for a couple are done as if they hang down 90deg they need rather extreme angles to avoid obstructing the ports and it takes major fitting for the angles to also fit up with beam sides and flush tops to avoid big gaps with proper spacing.
I found it helpful to make glued sets of beams/knees for fitment, knee and beam side are angled.
This works well....when done, they can be teased into place and then glued without driving yourself nuts trying when beams are already fit.
When all done this way, impossible to discern and all proper spacing for forecastle is maintained.........less frustration.
Example on one....yet to be finish sanded and glued.

 

[Keef]

Very nice Keith.
If you haven't already don't be it too big a hurry to glue up beams past #1 primarily because while the supplied knees for a couple are done as if they hang down 90deg they need rather extreme angles to avoid obstructing the ports and it takes major fitting for the angles to also fit up with beam sides and flush tops to avoid big gaps with proper spacing.
I found it helpful to make glued sets of beams/knees for fitment, knee and beam side are angled.
This works well....when done, they can be teased into place and then glued without driving yourself nuts trying when beams are already fit.
When all done this way, impossible to discern and all proper spacing for forecastle is maintained.........less frustration.
Example on one....yet to be finish sanded and glued.

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thanks for the headsup on this. will definitely take your advice

 

[Corsair]

I have actually started with the planking of the inner hull bulwarks and moved on to the foremast bits. Amazingly they fit exactly in position with number 3 and 4 forecastle deck beams. I have also fitted number 1 forecastle beam, but shall not fit any more as yet as the foreward guns have to be fitted under these beams. There are 8 in total and it would be very difficult to the guns with all the beams in position. I have made up and placed the galley stove in its position under the forecastle decking, not including the P.E. parts though, as the very intricate parts are too much for the limited movement of my left hand. I know my limitations

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Great work Keith ! Your build looks fantastic !

 

[BradNSW]

Love all the wonderful photos! Your work and ship are turning out great!

Thanks for shairng!

 

[GrantTyler]

Lovely work Kieth. Cheers Grant

 

[AllanKP69]

I think MD makes the finest kits available and your build is terrific. I do have a question, hope you don't mind. Do the plans explain that the knee of the head was heavily tapered from 11 inches where it meets the stem to about 4 inches wide at the forward edge and the top of the gammoning knee was rounded or beveled so there were no sharp edges?
Thanks Keef
Allan

 

[Keef]

I think MD makes the finest kits available and your build is terrific. I do have a question, hope you don't mind. Do the plans explain that the knee of the head was heavily tapered from 11 inches where it meets the stem to about 4 inches wide at the forward edge and the top of the gammoning knee was rounded or beveled so there were no sharp edges?
Thanks Keef
Allan

Thanks for your comment Allan. The plan does show a taper although not in such detail. I aim to deal with that at a later time.

 

[Corsair]

I think MD makes the finest kits available and your build is terrific. I do have a question, hope you don't mind. Do the plans explain that the knee of the head was heavily tapered from 11 inches where it meets the stem to about 4 inches wide at the forward edge and the top of the gammoning knee was rounded or beveled so there were no sharp edges?
Thanks Keef
Allan

Its not as much as you specify. But it does instruct you to taper it. If you tapered it down to a scale 4", it would be just over 2mm wide.

 

[AllanKP69]

Thanks Keef and Jeff. Yes, it would be thin, but that was the case according to the scantlings in Steel. It had to do with the weight of the head more than aerodynamics.
You can see it was very pronounced for all rates. Neither the Shipbuilder's Repository 1788 nor the Establishments specify the amount of taper, but I did read years ago that in the 17th century and into the18th century the taper was to be at least half the thickness at the fore end compared to the thickness at the stem.

David Antscherl goes into it quite a bit in The Fully Framed Model books as well.
Cheers!

Allan