I definitely like your work! I'm following your updates!
I just went and measured the width of my top timbers. I always felt like I had over-faired the frames. Corrected for scale = about 3 inches! The KF is a smaller ship, but I still feel comforted.As can be seen in the photo, the tops of the top timbers appear to be quite thin, but they are right at scale.
Hi AllanKP69 , Kudos for the documentation work and with a very nice set up of the details, I wonder: the bilge snakes are not there ( hull seepage water collection) ? Are the dimensions of the parts extracted from some table ? Thanks for Your feedback.FrankFraming can be as maddening at times but since I have gone to using a home made building board with a gantry it is much easier to get things right. The design for my set up is thanks to builder, author and friend Ed Tosti (HMS Naiad and Young America books) A good set of squares are not expensive and very useful at various parts of the build. I print out a framing guide and secure it to the building board with white glue as it is easy to moisten and remove once the hull is framed. In addition to making sure things are squared up the guide prevents cumulative error. A small error in location on one frame is easy to compensate for knowing where the frame line is to be, but it can accumulate drastically over 100 frames, so the guide is extremely useful in preventing this from happening.
Temporary pieces of wood are temporary glued to the top timbers to be sure frame does not spread or get squeezed during the framing erection process.
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Alternating frames did not touch the keel until about 1710. (The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War, page 14) As this would not be seen once the model is planked and decked I decided to add a chock to these partial frames. The drawing of two adjacent frames below shows the full frame and half frames. When half frames were to be used, all of the full frames are first erected then the half frames installed within 20 inches of the keel and secured with chocks and bolts to the full frames.
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From the contract
Floor Timbers To be Thirteen Inches Fore and aft and Fourteen Inches up & Downe Upon ye Keele And of Such Lengths in the Floor of the Ships that their Heads May Lye Eighteen Inches at least above the Bearing thereof by a Streight line from the Bottome of the Keele and to be Eleven Inches (Moulded) in and out at the Wrongheads and Ten Inches Wrought in the Length of the Floor and before and abaft the Same to be Nine Inches Wrought in and out and Every Other Floor Timber To be Bolted Through the Keele with one Bolt by an Inch and Eighth auger.
Lower Futtocks To fill the Roomes Full and Workmanlike for the Strength of the Frame below And to be Twelve Foot long at least & to be Chocked Downe Within Twenty Inches of the Keele.
Upper Futtock Head to take the Lower Cill of the Ports in the Midships and the Heele of the Top Timber The Lower Edge of the Gundeck Clamps Within Board and Wale Without Board. To be Ten Inches fore and aft and Eight Inches in and out at the Breadth and to Stand an Inch and halfe Apart for Aire.
Top Timbers to be Three Inches in and out aloft. And the Whole Frame to be well Chocked with good Sound Timber.
Hi Frank,the bilge snakes are not there ( hull seepage water collection) ?
Perhaps, and I'm guessing here, Frank (@Frank48) has limber channels in mind?Hi Frank,
Sorry but I am not sure to what you are referring as bilge snakes is a new term for me. There is a shallow notch in the frames on which the pump suction end sits as seen in the photos in post #15 above. Could you please post a drawing that shows the bilge snakes as I am really curious about this. Sometime in the past I recall seeing modern drawings showing a notch in the frames but I have never found a contemporary drawing or text describing this on English ships. The first sketch below is mine and what I am imaging might be bilge snakes (the notches next to the keel) and the second is a contemporary frame drawing at RMG that does not show these notches.
Thanks
Allan
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Hi AllanKP69 , forgive me that with translators you don't always have a right question, I attach a few pictures that are worth more than a hundred words.FrankHi Frank,
Sorry but I am not sure to what you are referring as bilge snakes is a new term for me. There is a shallow notch in the frames on which the pump suction end sits as seen in the photos in post #15 above. Could you please post a drawing that shows the bilge snakes as I am really curious about this. Sometime in the past I recall seeing modern drawings showing a notch in the frames but I have never found a contemporary drawing or text describing this on English ships. The first sketch below is mine and what I am imaging might be bilge snakes (the notches next to the keel) and the second is a contemporary frame drawing at RMG that does not show these notches.
Thanks
Allan
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