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Hobby shop or Home Improvement store for stains ?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Krul1
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Do any of you buy stains sold at hobby shops or websites ?. Besides smaller cans or bottles is there any difference between these and the popular name cans sold at home improvement centers ?

If it matters I am looking for a low odor product that won't inhibit a strong glue bond.
Thanks for your knowledgable replies.
Jay
 
Do any of you buy stains sold at hobby shops or websites ?. Besides smaller cans or bottles is there any difference between these and the popular name cans sold at home improvement centers ?

If it matters I am looking for a low odor product that won't inhibit a strong glue bond.
Thanks for your knowledgable replies.
Jay
I buy wood stains at Home Depot, ACE, Lowes, etc. Mainly Minwax or whatever brand that suits my needs. I try to find them Water Based. Wood glue bond isn't affected at all. I try to stain first, then glue the parts.
 
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I have used MinWax stain (natural) on any walnut I used on my PoF ships. I got the small cans at both Home Depot and Lowes, and sometimes a hardware store (Ace, True Value, etc) and that amount of stain lasted a good bit. I am going to try a dark brownM W stain on the hull of my VASA when I get to that point to simulate the dark brownish tar that was believed to have been applied to it.
 
I have had very good results with Saman water based stains. They offer a wide variety of colours and won't affect wood glue. Just be aware it may raise the grain a little more than a solvent based stain. Low odour and water wash up. I find it perfect for working in my hobby room. Go to Saman.ca.
 
As long as you know what you’re buying, it doesn’t matter who or where supplies it. The benefit of a brand name is that you are sure you are getting the right stuff.

That said, people write long and learned articles about stains and finishes.

The base chemistry is important in finishing to allow control of the depth of colour (color) and also to allow removal. Avoiding carcinogens is a new idea, but extremely valid.

For myself, I like vandyke for pretty much everything. It gives a suitable ‘brown’ for most things. Water based, user friendly, mix up as much as you need when you need it. Keeps forever in the jar/box.
One things though, if at all possible, I’ll try and put it over a base coat of blonde shellac. Why? To allow adjustment of the colour and control absorption. Alternatively, make up a weak solution, in the expectation of using several coats to deepen the colour to what you need. If you have scrap material to experiment on, you may not need to do this, but bear in mind that if you are colouring a ship model, any end grain, or joints, will absorb more stain, and this is irreversible. See comment about shellac above to prevent this happening.

J

 
Mass market wood stains are really a form of paint; usually a pigment in a thinner. In the case of the oil based stains, an alkyd pigment in linseed oil. In the case of the newer water based stains an acrylic pigment in water. High end woodworkers don’t like these stains as they give the wood a cloudy look. DIY level woodworkers like to use them to try to disguise cheap woods.

A better choice is a wood dye. These come in little bottles and a few drops color some sort of thinner; often alcohol or water. Unlike wood stains these are transparent. Different colors can be mixed and the strength of the color is easily controlled. Look for them at specialty woodworking suppliers.

I personally prefer painted models unless you are building an actual dockyard style model. In this case try to use quality woods that do no need to be stained.

Roger
 
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