I'm so glad I found this post. I was quite discouraged at the inaccuracy of the rip fence, and was annoyed that, for the price I paid, that this was happening. I will be adjusting that screw!!!
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Other than a Byrnes saw can someone suggest any others..? I am in the market and dont want to buy a Proxxon or micro-whatever saw (Mart or other names of the same thing). The op of this thread echos the same thing I have read over and over in other forums and YT, not to mention their (Proxxon's customer service) is not stellar...My Saw-Stop is kinda overkill for ship modelling and its cold in my garage !!! A small table top for my laundry room/hobby room !! Thanks...
Unfortunately there are no other decent saws for modelers. Whomever did not buy Byrnes, now buys Proxxon FET or Micro-Mark. No other choice.
I feel your pain! In my research there really are no other choices unless you get lucky and find a Byrnes on the used market (eBay, Craig’s List, etc). Hopefully, Byrnes Jim Saw will get back into production but since Jim passed away that’s uncertain.
On the other hand after I fixed my Proxxon FET it became a very good saw. I no longer want to replace it with Byrnes. There is nothing that I cannot do on my Proxxon. By the way Byrnes has no blade tilt adjustment which is standard on any other large saw. Byrnes requires some special attachment to do the tilted cuts.
Thank-You OlivierF and Y.T....Ill just keep using my table saw then. I left the hobby about ten years ago with a Constitution still on the blocks ! I had sold my Byrnes saw before every trying a scratch build, (never-mind finishing a build ) of course regretting it now...I shoulda kept it, even if the Admiral thinks I'm hoarder !!!
I ordered a FET from Model Expo's shop on EvilBay literally the day before it was announced that Byrnes tools were back in production, and it arrived today. I had to make a minor (very minor!) adjustment to the fence by loosening the cap screw on top of the fence, but after that everything was as perfect as my ability to measure it could determine. Probably as accurate as I will ever need, to be sure. That said, thanks for the info you have posted. I may yet need to do some tweaking after it's shakedown cruise.
The miter gauge seems pretty sloppy in the T-slot, so I may yet have to do something about that, but I do think I'm going to really like the micro adjust feature on the fence. Going to make precise dadoes a snap.
The miter gauge seems pretty sloppy in the T-slot, so I may yet have to do something about that, but I do think I'm going to really like the micro adjust feature on the fence. Going to make precise dadoes a snap.
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I had the same problem. Fence not square to the blade.
I have one. Poor design from a great manufacturer. I have my doubts about all the fantastic micro adjustments that sells this product. Poor, but it is a nice general bench saw. Overpriced, me thinks.
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I just purchased this saw based upon reviews. I found this site because of the issues with it. Sad that you spend this amount of money to have a very badly made saw.
After having its fence fixed with method I described at the beginning it does same job as famous Byrnes saw but for half a price. For accurate cuts I also discovered proper blades which Proxxon does not make. These are slit type blades which look like milling blades - lots of small teeth.
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Yes, I understand. What I mean is that you would think they'd do better from the manufacturer. The design is terrible. Your fix is basically what I had in mind and I sup I have to do it.
I am with you on this. This Proxxon saw fence is an abomination of a product. Must be redesigned. Was it an automobile a recall would apply with free rework. But Proxxon today does not bother. Modelers are very small market. Can continue to sell cr*p as who cares.
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Very well said, my friend. I found the model 28070 on eBay after I bought the FET. That one appears to use a better design..but who knows?
You did a fine job on you modification. I bought a ball screw rail to use as well. Hopefully it turns out good too.
You did a fine job on you modification. I bought a ball screw rail to use as well. Hopefully it turns out good too.
Good luck. My friend.
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Set up is KEY for any table saw, large or small. "The Complete Illustrated guide to Tablesaws" is a good reference. And if you are in the US or Canada, there are a lot of unloved small 7" tilting table cast iron bench saws from the 1930's-1960's that just need a new bushings and a motor. Usually a 1/2" arbor so there are plenty of blades available.
Hello. Could you please provide a reference link to any of these saws so I can learn how they look like?
A very interesting topic YT and I can relate to your issues. The fence fixing to the slider is inadequate and the guide moves out of true to the blade.
The section of blades from Proxxon is almost none existent.
I do propose to turn metal bushes to allow the use of milling machine slitting blades, almost infinite choice of tooth count and kerf width
I do plan on completely replacing the guide system with one machined from billet aluminium. I would also mill a new top but as yet have been unable to find stock bar large enough.
The big question is do I do all this to a new machine, my FET is now 15 years old and shows it’s age?
I have only had to replace the belt in that time but the on off switch is now problematic and only works when it wants to
The section of blades from Proxxon is almost none existent.
I do propose to turn metal bushes to allow the use of milling machine slitting blades, almost infinite choice of tooth count and kerf width
I do plan on completely replacing the guide system with one machined from billet aluminium. I would also mill a new top but as yet have been unable to find stock bar large enough.
The big question is do I do all this to a new machine, my FET is now 15 years old and shows it’s age?
I have only had to replace the belt in that time but the on off switch is now problematic and only works when it wants to
Here are the blades I purchased for my Proxxon FET. This is ideal for delicate work as ripping planks.
