Step two is to actually install the frame set and start thinking about the rudder positioning.
Once you have an idea of how things will work, you can install the T-rail carefully on your building surface. Having installed everything loosely once, you will be more confident that everything should fit together nicely. Note that there are a couple of frames at the mast that fit in a single notch. If one starts from the bow with a few frames, and then from the stern with a few frames, it becomes evident that two frames must fit close together.
Don’t forget the rudder. A builder should start considering the positioning and functioning of the rudder as early as possible in the construction process. The design leaves a 1/8″ square space but this could be modified to make the space round and fit a slightly thicker shaft tube.
THE 3D-PRINTED PARTS FOR THE BOWN AND STERN:
The 3D-printed parts you see are offered as an optional package. Most builders will not need them. These parts can be purchased at the same time as the frame set or can be purchased later.
Planking should be quite straightforward. I would plank one plank on each side at a time, and make sure they are carefully aligned. At the sheer, one can plank right up to the edge, or a modeller could leave a small space for a plank that would create a toe-rail around the boat.
The design is intended for a 1/8″ thick hull. We do supply planking in clear pine, or walnut.
PLANKING REQUIREMENTS:
We recommend preparing 50 planks of 5/32″ x 3/8″ x 72″ for the hull and 25 planks of 1/8″ x 1/8″ x 48″ for the deck.
We do supply a PLANKING PACKAGE for this model in either clear pine or walnut.
Note that, in this particular construction, planking starts at the sheer line, where the modeller has pinned a thin plank in the deck notch in order to establish the sheer. Note, also, that in this first construction, the builder has added some thin stock to the inside of the frames to add a little stiffness. After seeing this, we have added a horizontal stiffener to the frame set itself.
The first plank is always the most exciting and needs to be attached with the most care. Note the nifty little Allen Key that is used to align the two first planks.
Solar power is used to create heat to steam the planks. The team box is made from a fluorescent tube protector, a plastic clear tube with a bit of water sitting in the sun for a few hours. Position the plank and clamp it down until it dries, when dry glue it down in the same spot.
Windex is used to soak the planks to make them more pliable. These planks are 5/32″ thick but 1/8″ planks may also be acceptable.
Note the frames are sanded up to, but not past, one edge. The frames are designed to be sanded in just this manner. If the sanding passes both edges, the original lines are compromised. Of course, the few middle frames are quite flat against the lines, and so the char should be completely removed.
Here you have it, so far. We started with a 3D model, we cut the parts, and now the boat is in work!
This is really, in my opinion, the way the industry is heading.
Next for me is to design the deck houses and the 3D-parts for detailing the deck.
Once you have an idea of how things will work, you can install the T-rail carefully on your building surface. Having installed everything loosely once, you will be more confident that everything should fit together nicely. Note that there are a couple of frames at the mast that fit in a single notch. If one starts from the bow with a few frames, and then from the stern with a few frames, it becomes evident that two frames must fit close together.
Don’t forget the rudder. A builder should start considering the positioning and functioning of the rudder as early as possible in the construction process. The design leaves a 1/8″ square space but this could be modified to make the space round and fit a slightly thicker shaft tube.
THE 3D-PRINTED PARTS FOR THE BOWN AND STERN:
The 3D-printed parts you see are offered as an optional package. Most builders will not need them. These parts can be purchased at the same time as the frame set or can be purchased later.
Planking should be quite straightforward. I would plank one plank on each side at a time, and make sure they are carefully aligned. At the sheer, one can plank right up to the edge, or a modeller could leave a small space for a plank that would create a toe-rail around the boat.
The design is intended for a 1/8″ thick hull. We do supply planking in clear pine, or walnut.
PLANKING REQUIREMENTS:
We recommend preparing 50 planks of 5/32″ x 3/8″ x 72″ for the hull and 25 planks of 1/8″ x 1/8″ x 48″ for the deck.
We do supply a PLANKING PACKAGE for this model in either clear pine or walnut.
Note that, in this particular construction, planking starts at the sheer line, where the modeller has pinned a thin plank in the deck notch in order to establish the sheer. Note, also, that in this first construction, the builder has added some thin stock to the inside of the frames to add a little stiffness. After seeing this, we have added a horizontal stiffener to the frame set itself.
The first plank is always the most exciting and needs to be attached with the most care. Note the nifty little Allen Key that is used to align the two first planks.
Solar power is used to create heat to steam the planks. The team box is made from a fluorescent tube protector, a plastic clear tube with a bit of water sitting in the sun for a few hours. Position the plank and clamp it down until it dries, when dry glue it down in the same spot.
Windex is used to soak the planks to make them more pliable. These planks are 5/32″ thick but 1/8″ planks may also be acceptable.
Note the frames are sanded up to, but not past, one edge. The frames are designed to be sanded in just this manner. If the sanding passes both edges, the original lines are compromised. Of course, the few middle frames are quite flat against the lines, and so the char should be completely removed.
Here you have it, so far. We started with a 3D model, we cut the parts, and now the boat is in work!
This is really, in my opinion, the way the industry is heading.
Next for me is to design the deck houses and the 3D-parts for detailing the deck.