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Kate Koury

Joined
Aug 22, 2022
Messages
250
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I have an old solid-hull Model Shipways model of the Kate Koury. I would like tn try building this as a plank on frame/bulkhead model instead.

Does anyone know where I might find drawings of this ship from which I can extract the necessary information to construct the ship's keel and frames and proceed from there?
 
I believe that all the old (yellow box) Model Shipway kits had plans including half breadth, sheer, and body plans that would allow you to build a planked model. If you can track down those, you should be set. Fair winds!
 
First of all, I would start by buying a second hand a book by a guy named Victor Grimwood with a title something like American Ship Models. Sorry, but I long since passed my copy along to someone else so that’s as close as I can come. The book has a lines drawing for Kate Corry. You will need some lofting/drafting skills but it’s possible to convert this to fit your needs.

Next, the pre-eminent historian regarding whale ships and whaling is Eric Ronnberg. I would go to the Nautical Research Guild’s website(NRG.org) and using their online index, look up the many articles written by Ronnberg. I believe you’ll find some about Kate Corry. Inexpensive digital reprints are available from the NRG office.

Caution! During the 1990’s rebuild of the Charles W. Morgan Mystic Seaport had an opportunity to examine her framing. Results can be found in two WoodenBoat Magazine articles. Again reprints should be available from the magazine. Her framing is not like the regularly spaced framing usually seen on POF models. Some frames are even disarticulated; not attached to other hull structure. Your POF model therefore runs the risk of being less historically accurate than either a fully planked model.

Andy’s post arrived while I was writing this. I agree that a solid hull model with planked topsides and coppered bottom would be a great idea.

Roger
 
I see that Model Expo has a set of plans for the Kate Cory. They don't show any images, so I don't know if they are just copies of what you already have with the kit. They are usually pretty responsive if you email them with questions.
 
First of all, I would start by buying a second hand a book by a guy named Victor Grimwood with a title something like American Ship Models. Sorry, but I long since passed my copy along to someone else so that’s as close as I can come. The book has a lines drawing for Kate Corry. You will need some lofting/drafting skills but it’s possible to convert this to fit your needs.
The book is American Ship Models and How to Build Them by V.R. Grimwood. It does not include the Kate Cory but it does feature another whaler: the schooner Agate. I read that the Cory started out as a schooner and was re-rigged as a brig. The Model Shipways plans and instructions were prepared by Erik Ronnberg. Fair winds!
 
First of all, I would start by buying a second hand a book by a guy named Victor Grimwood with a title something like American Ship Models. Sorry, but I long since passed my copy along to someone else so that’s as close as I can come. The book has a lines drawing for Kate Corry. You will need some lofting/drafting skills but it’s possible to convert this to fit your needs.

Next, the pre-eminent historian regarding whale ships and whaling is Eric Ronnberg. I would go to the Nautical Research Guild’s website(NRG.org) and using their online index, look up the many articles written by Ronnberg. I believe you’ll find some about Kate Corry. Inexpensive digital reprints are available from the NRG office.

Caution! During the 1990’s rebuild of the Charles W. Morgan Mystic Seaport had an opportunity to examine her framing. Results can be found in two WoodenBoat Magazine articles. Again reprints should be available from the magazine. Her framing is not like the regularly spaced framing usually seen on POF models. Some frames are even disarticulated; not attached to other hull structure. Your POF model therefore runs the risk of being less historically accurate than either a fully planked model.

Andy’s post arrived while I was writing this. I agree that a solid hull model with planked topsides and coppered bottom would be a great idea.

Roger
Thanks for these suggestions. I may just go ahead and use what I have. I had a solid hull ship kit but had no clue how to put it together. It has long since disappeared. The KK kit was given to me by a friend who, because of a stroke, has no use of his left arm now. I now have better tools and a little more knowledge. I'll tackle it after I finish my VASA. In the meantime, I will continue to research this ship looking for those books/articles.
 
The whaling museum in New Bedford used to sell a set of 5 sheets that are much more detailed than whats in the Model Shipways kit. I’m nearly done with my Kate Cory, so might be able to pass the plans along… Crappy phone pic here: IMG_7752.jpeg
 
Unless you are intending to build an unplanked open framed model, which, as indicated above, apparently poses unsolvable problems with historical accuracy, thereby generally negating the purpose of an open framed model, the rough-carved hull blank from your Model Shipways "Yellow Box" vintage kit is a far easier option for hull construction. In my experience, which goes back to when they were made, those hull blanks are very close to being accurate right out of the box. They usually need little more than a sanding to fair them to the lines. Some shaving is required to thin the bulwarks on some of them, as is refining the bow, sternpost and keel. Other than that, they're good to go. If you want to show plank seams, those can be scribed into the solid hull or it can be planked with thin planking of wood or card stock. However, at the scale (1/8" IIRC,) plank seams would not be visible at scale viewing distance.
 
The whaling museum in New Bedford used to sell a set of 5 sheets that are much more detailed than whats in the Model Shipways kit. I’m nearly done with my Kate Cory, so might be able to pass the plans along… Crappy phone pic here: View attachment 521483
Thanks for that offer. Let me know when you finish and we'll figure out how to connect.
 
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