keel assembly

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Oct 9, 2021
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i remember that back in the old days, it was normal to assemble the keel and glue it, and let it dry sandwiched between two sheets of heavy duty glass.

I have seen that in a few older build logs here, but have also seen the very common "glue and hold with clamps" method.

Is the glass method obsolete on cost of glass or what?
 
The “right” way to build a ship model is the way that works for you. Trying out ideas, improving on those that work, and discarding those that don’t makes us better craftsmen. I always chuckle at those who buy secondhand kits and are flummoxed to find the instructions missing. Each of us is equipped with different tools, and has different working skills and habits. That’s what makes us unique. I don’t buy the idea what any ship model building technique is obsolete as long as it works.

Sandwiching a keel between two pieces of glass seems to me to be a good way to assure straightness.



Roger
 
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In addition to what Roger said earlier, one must also take into account the circumstance that the keels were generally not straight, but were usually tapered (and even sometimes in both planes) and also quite often curved downwards like a bow (in a newly built ship). As a result, a method using glass panes (in order to make the keel straight) is obviously out of the question if one intends to strictly follow the actual geometry of the keel assembly, unless its modelled shape is more or less consciously simplified, which is indeed a fairly common, and quite understandable, occurrence among modellers/designers of models.

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Well stated Waldemar
Coincidently I was about to post a picture of why the glass idea was never a good one if the keel was made with the specified tapers. The below sketch of a 74 gun ship keel may help. The dimensions are from the contract. The forward end of the keel at the boxing joint is 14" wide and the aft end is 11.5" with midships being 18" wide by 18" high. Also shown is the 7 inch thick false keel. The contract calls for not more than 6 pieces to make up the keel so it may have been made of 5 sections rather than the four I sketched.

On the other hand, if the builder chooses to leave out the taper there is no reason glass plates would not work. The problem though is that the bottom of the knee of the head and the bottom of the sternpost will not fit the keel well if they are properly tapered and the keel is not.
Allan

1742497125557.png
or 6
 
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