Kingfisher 1770 1:48 POF

dockattner said:
I'm a little surprised to be posting again this week. Counter timbers are notoriously difficult, and I was expecting any number of do-overs...but the kit design is rather clever and once I wrapped my brain around the information in Antscherl (TFFM) and saw how others had approached this challenging construction (other build reports) I had fairly smooth sailing (if spending 10 hours on just a few timbers can be considered smooth sailing).

These are kit-supplied parts that I have customized to bring them into conformity with the (many) ship drawings I have now accumulated (including some new drawings from Harold Hahn's son who will happily sell you copies of his father's material!).

The parts:

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I first needed to establish the round-up (camber) of the upper element (on the right). This complex timber will eventually function as the terminal beam on the quarter deck (the rebate is to receive the decking):

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The round-up of the quarter deck is 6 inches (though less on this shorter piece).

Next, I needed to carefully shape the 'pockets' that would receive the inner and middle counter timbers (the cool kids probably know how to do this with a mill or other precision tooling - I just used files):

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And now, after several hours of fussing...counter timbers being fixed in place:

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Voila:

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And after a bit of fairing on the back side...

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I would have waited until the helm port was fabricated for this next post, but I was feeling pretty good and wanted to share my progress with my forum friends! I might even have a glass of wine with my bride to celebrate :).
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I nice up-date, showing nice work, Paul.
dockattner said:
(if spending 10 hours on just a few timbers can be considered smooth sailing)
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It looks to me like sailing with a headwind, you often have to tack, it doesn't progress quickly, but you will get there. And even that can be covered as smooth sailing.
Regards, Peter
 
Hello Friends,

This weekend I was able to install the helm port (rudder passes through it), planked the lower counter, and rough fabricated the rudder itself. But pictures tell the story...

Helm port and lower counter planking (still need to add trenails):

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The rudder components have tissue paper to represent a tar/felt lining...

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Here you can see the rudder before any tapering:

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The rudder is then shaped on three of the four surfaces. It is tapered along its length to match the taper on the sternpost:

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And the part of the rudder that faces the sternpost is beveled to allow for its free movement:

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Next up: I need to figure out how to make realistic looking gudgeons and pintles (rudder hinges).
 
dockattner said:
In January of 1766 the Royal Navy ordered two ships to be built conforming to a new design developed by the Surveyor of the Navy, Sir John Williams. The first of these was launched in November 1767 (Swan) and the second (Kingfisher) was launched in July of 1770 (but not completed until November 1770). As a curiosity many English records show the name of this second ship as Kings Fisher (or Kingsfisher).

Twenty-three more ships were ordered to the same design between 1773 and 1779. You are probably familiar with some of them: Fly, Pegasus, Swift (Vulture, Atalanta, Thorn) as they have appeared on this forum and others as kit or scratch builds.

Swan-class sloops were rated at 14 guns though from the very beginning they were designed with 16 gunports. In time, the additional two guns were added but the nominal rating was left unchanged.

Swan-class sloops were the ‘standard’ ship design of the British Navy during the American Revolutionary War during which eleven of them were lost (including Kingfisher). Surviving vessels went on to serve during the French Revolutionary War and the Napoleonic War.

It is necessary to identify this ship as the Kingfisher 1770 because there are at least 13 additional ships of this name listed in the records of the Royal Navy. There is even a Kingfisher class of ship built during the 20th century.

The Kingfisher 1770 was built by master shipwright Joseph Harris at the Chatham Dockyard, sailed for America in August of 1771, and notably participated in the blockade of Delaware Harbor and the Battle of Turtle Gut Inlet. She was burned by her own crew to avoid capture (by the French) on 7 August 1778 in Narragansett Bay during the Battle of Rhode Island.

Here are her vitals:
  • Length: 96 ft 8 ½ in (29.5 m) (gundeck), 78 ft 10 ½ in (24.0 m) (keel)
  • Beam: 26 ft 10 in (8.2 m)
  • Depth of hold: 12 ft 10 in (3.91 m)
  • Tons burthen: 302 bm
  • Complement: 125
  • Armament: 14x 6 Pound Guns, 16x ½ Pound Swivel Guns
Wikipedia says this: The Swan class sloops were unusually attractive for the type of vessel. Not only did they have sleek hull lines, but they also carried an unusual amount of decoration for their size. They were built just before the Admiralty issued orders that all vessels (especially lesser rates and unrated vessels) should have minimal decoration and carvings to save on costs.

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Attribution: Painting. [Model of HMS] KINGFISHER, Sloop 14 Guns. Model made by Joseph Williams; Painting by Josh Marshall - 1775. Oil on panel in gilt frame. Perspective paintings at 45 degree angle from Navy Board original plans. Commissioned by King George III as part of a series of paired bow and stern paintings of British warship models, one example of each class of ship in the naval establishment.

Construction will begin in a few weeks. I have been reorganizing my workspace, reading everything I can find on swan class ships, ordering supplies to supplement the build, and adding some needed tools to my workshop.

You are all welcome to pull up a chair and join me on this multi-year project. It's going to be a blast!
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Looking forward to it. Looks like a beautiful project.
 
Tobias said:
Very nice result, Paul.
How did you get on with the tissue paper? I think it's the most beautiful to work with and the result can't be compared with anything else.
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My experience with tissue paper lining has been good. On the plus side it does create a very fine and precise line between the timbers. Unlike tinted glue it remains sharp even if the timber joinery is less than perfect. I have limited it's use to the larger centerline timbers (I think you are using it between planks as well?) - but I am happy when I get to use it.

On the negative side it does significantly weaken the joint. I would not recommend it for places that will be under tension - though I suppose those should be few and far between on a well-constructed (fitted) model.

Several best practices for anyone interested: you must glue both wood surfaces with a thin smear of glue and then place the tissue paper in place under some pretty intense clamping pressure. This means you must allow for the thickness of the glue as well as the thickness of the tissue paper in your joinery. It all adds up when you are building complex constructions and if you don't account for the thickness of these materials there will be a noticeable amount of 'size creep'...
 
dockattner said:
Hello Friends,

This weekend I was able to install the helm port (rudder passes through it), planked the lower counter, and rough fabricated the rudder itself. But pictures tell the story...

Helm port and lower counter planking (still need to add trenails):

View attachment 419530

View attachment 419531

The rudder components have tissue paper to represent a tar/felt lining...

View attachment 419532

Here you can see the rudder before any tapering:

View attachment 419533

The rudder is then shaped on three of the four surfaces. It is tapered along its length to match the taper on the sternpost:

View attachment 419536

And the part of the rudder that faces the sternpost is beveled to allow for its free movement:

View attachment 419537

View attachment 419535

View attachment 419534

Next up: I need to figure out how to make realistic looking gudgeons and pintles (rudder hinges).
Click to expand...
Hi Paul, just to post the detail,Frank

tim.jpg
 
dockattner said:
Hello Friends,

This weekend I was able to install the helm port (rudder passes through it), planked the lower counter, and rough fabricated the rudder itself. But pictures tell the story...

Helm port and lower counter planking (still need to add trenails):

View attachment 419530

View attachment 419531

The rudder components have tissue paper to represent a tar/felt lining...

View attachment 419532

Here you can see the rudder before any tapering:

View attachment 419533

The rudder is then shaped on three of the four surfaces. It is tapered along its length to match the taper on the sternpost:

View attachment 419536

And the part of the rudder that faces the sternpost is beveled to allow for its free movement:

View attachment 419537

View attachment 419535

View attachment 419534

Next up: I need to figure out how to make realistic looking gudgeons and pintles (rudder hinges).
Click to expand...
You might want to consider purchasing them already made? I know model expo has some.
 
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