Paul, your excellence bores me.
Kingfisher 1770 1:48 POF
- Thread starter dockattner
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Hey Chestcutter,
First of all, thank you for your favorable review of my work. I tend to see more weeds than roses coming off my workbench, so I am encouraged by your encouragement.
As I have posted previously, I am reluctant to detail my working steps with members on our forum. Should students hold themselves out to be teachers when they are learning something?
But you have made a valid case that the fraternity of ship modelers should be mutually supportive, and I could certainly offer some simple suggestions for techniques, approaches, or processes that have worked in my hands. Still, humility will prevail as it should.
I will mention, however, that if I have a secret sauce it is patience. I use mostly hand tools (XActo knives, files, sandpaper) and enjoy the process of creating something with my hands. With that said, I have a growing collection of power tools, but I do not have a background in the man-arts so I don't really know how to properly use wood-working machines. Indeed, I am more afraid to use them than I probably should be. But I have also seen how power tools can do some things better than I can by hand - so necessity will ultimately drive a change toward the greater precision only possible with machines.
My next posting will make that point. I tried to do something by hand and the results are rather mixed. Always learning.
First of all, thank you for your favorable review of my work. I tend to see more weeds than roses coming off my workbench, so I am encouraged by your encouragement.
As I have posted previously, I am reluctant to detail my working steps with members on our forum. Should students hold themselves out to be teachers when they are learning something?
But you have made a valid case that the fraternity of ship modelers should be mutually supportive, and I could certainly offer some simple suggestions for techniques, approaches, or processes that have worked in my hands. Still, humility will prevail as it should.
I will mention, however, that if I have a secret sauce it is patience. I use mostly hand tools (XActo knives, files, sandpaper) and enjoy the process of creating something with my hands. With that said, I have a growing collection of power tools, but I do not have a background in the man-arts so I don't really know how to properly use wood-working machines. Indeed, I am more afraid to use them than I probably should be. But I have also seen how power tools can do some things better than I can by hand - so necessity will ultimately drive a change toward the greater precision only possible with machines.
My next posting will make that point. I tried to do something by hand and the results are rather mixed. Always learning.
I hear you on the dangers of machinery. It took me a while to become comfortable with routers, for example. And, a table saw is an incredibly powerful machine. The key, I think, is really understanding what the tool is designed to do, and being aware of what NOT to do. Also, never lulling yourself into complacency. I've done some pretty stupid things on woodworking machinery, but I've been lucky. Lessons learned, and all.
Work continues apace on the interior of the ship...
Small ships like the swan class series did not have a continuous orlop deck. Instead, they had fore and aft platforms. Understandably, the kit makes no provision for these platforms so if they are to be included on my model, they must be fabricated from scratch.
Fortunately, the book series "The Fully Framed Model" (Antscherl and Herbert) includes a 1:48 drawing of these platforms (though care must be taken as these platforms were not all the same from ship to ship). I made a copy of the aft platform drawing from the book and was delighted to discover that it fit the interior of my model perfectly
.
Here is a photo essay showing one (long) day's work:
Several comments...
1. I still need to add treenails, half of a hatchway, hinges, some support stanchions (or maybe bulkheads) below this platform...
2. The scarf joints on the knees are simulated...
3. I left the bolts off the knees - I doubt this platform will be very visible and I mostly used it to practice making a structure like this...
On the real ship there should be dimensionally precise square/rectangular pockets created to receive the different cross pieces (etc.). I tried to simply this process and used an XActo knife and files. This was a mixed bag of hits and misses. Some of the pieces fit together rather well - others not so much. It was also a mountain of work doing these by hand.
I counted and there are exactly 3.42 bazillion of these beam/ledge/carling joints necessary to complete the decking on the Kingfisher. I'll need to come up with a better approach (table saw? mill?). The problem is they cannot really be mass produced as their position on the beams and knees varies...
I'm open to suggestions from those of you who have done this before...
Small ships like the swan class series did not have a continuous orlop deck. Instead, they had fore and aft platforms. Understandably, the kit makes no provision for these platforms so if they are to be included on my model, they must be fabricated from scratch.
Fortunately, the book series "The Fully Framed Model" (Antscherl and Herbert) includes a 1:48 drawing of these platforms (though care must be taken as these platforms were not all the same from ship to ship). I made a copy of the aft platform drawing from the book and was delighted to discover that it fit the interior of my model perfectly
.Here is a photo essay showing one (long) day's work:
Several comments...
1. I still need to add treenails, half of a hatchway, hinges, some support stanchions (or maybe bulkheads) below this platform...
2. The scarf joints on the knees are simulated...
3. I left the bolts off the knees - I doubt this platform will be very visible and I mostly used it to practice making a structure like this...
On the real ship there should be dimensionally precise square/rectangular pockets created to receive the different cross pieces (etc.). I tried to simply this process and used an XActo knife and files. This was a mixed bag of hits and misses. Some of the pieces fit together rather well - others not so much. It was also a mountain of work doing these by hand.
I counted and there are exactly 3.42 bazillion of these beam/ledge/carling joints necessary to complete the decking on the Kingfisher. I'll need to come up with a better approach (table saw? mill?). The problem is they cannot really be mass produced as their position on the beams and knees varies...
I'm open to suggestions from those of you who have done this before...
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Hi Paul, just picked up your log again from #1,715. I had to double check that. The photo of the window header and found myself admiring your treenails. As perfection only belongs to Him your treenails are as close to perfect as they can be, size, placement, tone and finish. I then found myself thinking about all the close to perfect smiles you've must have created during your career, the confidence you've imparted to so many and found myself smiling.
Good afternoon Paul. I should be used to seeing immaculate work from you however each time you post progress it never ceases to amaze. Quality my Friend. Re your transom knee…. Those notches need to be perfect….Ah no doubt they are. Cheers Grant
True storyKnees, crutches, sleepers, breasts, wings .... it's a whole new language. Very interesting Paul, thanks for sharing. Your woodwork looks superb
Good afternoon Paul. You mentioned that much of this beautiful craft is going to be covered…is there anyway you could change your plan to show some of this work. It is just too good to be hidden away? Cheers GrantWork continues apace on the interior of the ship...
Small ships like the swan class series did not have a continuous orlop deck. Instead, they had fore and aft platforms. Understandably, the kit makes no provision for these platforms so if they are to be included on my model, they must be they fabricated from scratch.
Fortunately, the book series "The Fully Framed Model" (Antscherl and Herbert) includes a 1:48 drawing of these platforms (though care must be taken as these platforms were not all the same from ship to ship). I made a copy of the aft platform drawing from the book and was delighted to discover that it fit the interior of my model perfectly
Here is a photo essay showing one (long) day's work:
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Several comments...
1. I still need to add treenails, half of a hatchway, hinges, some support stanchions (or maybe bulkheads) below this platform...
2. The scarf joints on the knees are simulated...
3. I left the bolts off the knees - I doubt this platform will be very visible and I mostly used it to practice making a structure like this...
On the real ship there should be dimensionally precise square/rectangular pockets created to receive the different cross pieces (etc.). I tried to simply this process and used an XActo knife and files. This was a mixed bag of hits and misses. Some of the pieces fit together rather well - others not so much. It was also a mountain of work doing these by hand.
I counted and there are exactly 3.42 bazillion of these beam/ledge/carling joints necessary to complete the decking on the Kingfisher. I'll need to come up with a better approach (table saw? mill?). The problem is they cannot really be mass produced as their position on the beams and knees varies...
I'm open to suggestions from those of you who have done this before...
No idea.
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Two thoughts on that:
1. A teacher, not being able to learn from his students, is nót a capable teacher.
2. Sharing one's working methods goes two ways; it allows the "teachers" among us to point out areas of potential improvement (or one's erroneous ways) and secondly, other "student builders" may benefit from your ideas and work methods. At least it more often than not provided me with how-to's and inspiration.
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You lot have a real short-term memory; I'm able to at least mention three examples of terrifying use of cutting equipment on once beautiful models...Good afternoon Paul. You mentioned that much of this beautiful craft is going to be covered…is there anyway you could change your plan to show some of this work. It is just too good to be hidden away? Cheers Grant
No idea.
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I shouldn't have said that...Good afternoon Paul. You mentioned that much of this beautiful craft is going to be covered…is there anyway you could change your plan to show some of this work. It is just too good to be hidden away? Cheers Grant
No idea.
Thanks Ken. People on the SOS forum are very kind and complimentary of my modeling - but the thing I'm actually good at is moving teeth - so your post now has left me smiling
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Only time will tell how well-placed the notches are, Grant. I can tell you they align with the patternGood afternoon Paul. You mentioned that much of this beautiful craft is going to be covered…is there anyway you could change your plan to show some of this work. It is just too good to be hidden away? Cheers Grant
No idea.
so if they are in the wrong place it will be my problem, but not my fault (other than I maybe should have left them for later - it's just much easier to cut them on the benchtop).No ship cutting allowed on this model. But maybe removable decks? Hmm, not so sure...
Agreed.
True story
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No idea to make them easy if they are all different. Maybe make a standard one and only adjust them when in place? I would do like that, just handwork and a lot of building hours.
Great comment!
Excellent work as always Paul
I would cut the notches using my mill with the beam laid on it's side using a 1mm cutter then square the bottom corners with a scalpel.You still have to mark them out accurately with a very sharp pencil, no mass production here I'm afraid
I would cut the notches using my mill with the beam laid on it's side using a 1mm cutter then square the bottom corners with a scalpel.You still have to mark them out accurately with a very sharp pencil, no mass production here I'm afraid