L'Ambitieux Jean Berain 1/48

[WojtasS]

Hello

It's been a three almost four years since I started my first build log on SOS. Back then I had no idea what I'm getting into and It's rather a pleasant surprise
From a technical point of view, I'm almost on the same level of completion as I stripped most of planks on my French 118GS, but the amount of knowledge I gained through mistakes I made there will positively affect this build.

With a help of CNC I intend to fasten some things that stopped my work due to inaccuracy of standard machines. Some slight adjustments keel and and knee of the head were made much quicker and more pleasant.

As for the ship itself. This L'Ambitieux differs slightly from Master Jean Boudriot's as it's based on Jean Berain sketch. Main difference being beautiful figurehead of Apollo and open quarter galleries



As many I'm deeply impressed by Bernard Frölich's L'Ambitieux unfortunately for me I didn't see all pictures of model and fell in love with this combination of wood color.

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Which is not tru at least from different perspective. Same story as Tanneron Soleil Royal color of ship depends on camera of photographer​

In next post I'll cover how I got a color that is close(ish) to a boxwood with only acrylic paint and some wash​

Here are actual photos of ship. Keel and bow is made from pear and only dry fitted​

 

[Mirek]

Witaj
Piękny start Wojtku będę oglądał z przyjemnością .Pozdrawiam Mirek

 

[WojtasS]

Dzięki Mirek. Mam nadzieję że nie zawiodę

 

[WojtasS]

Painting 3d printed figurines.
As you see from pictures above they seem to be yellow. In reality I managed to get a more of honey tint . Unfortunetly camera lens can't notice the subtle difference between each stage of paint. That's why I show you what paints I mixed. I tried painting with only one color, but results didn't satisfy me.

After putting a first coat of gray primer. I made a mix of sand yellow and deep yellow as main ingredients. I had untoutched bottle of filthy brown which is now (at least in Poland) not available. [Heavy ochre might be an alternative, but for now I'm not sure whether is it as good]. Little bit of orange brown and we should get sth like this

On a figurine looks like this​

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Because vallejo paints are dosed with splashes I drew a estimated circle​

Second and next leyers proportions are very much the same just without orange brown. The mix will get more yellow-ish​

After at least two layers of wash I got a honey like color which is most alike to actual color in real life not distorted be camera lens or lightning​

Apollo is the same color as sculptures above, but the camera makes him more sand yellow​

 

[Maarten]

Wonderfull work. Do you have already experience with the use of the 3d printed hull in combination with the pear wood keel stern and stem in relation to the changing ambient conditions on both materials?

 

[Mirek]

Witaj
Uzyskałeś Wojtku pięknych efekt zapowiada się piekny model czekam na dalsze ppostepy.. Pozdrawiam Mirek

 

[kuba91nt]

Osobiście nie podjął bym się budowy tego modelu, ze względu na ograniczone źródło historyczne. Będziesz miał spory problem ze skalowaniem objektów. Chętnie zobaczę jak to rozwiążesz.

Personally, i wouldn't attempt to build this model due to limited and low historical sources. You'll have significant problems with scaling. I'd love to see how you solve these problems.

 

[WojtasS]

Wonderfull work. Do you have already experience with the use of the 3d printed hull in combination with the pear wood keel stern and stem in relation to the changing ambient conditions on both materials?

I haven't noticed any on my other ship which has much thinner keel, also planking seem to be ok, but I'm in Central Europe with no extreme temperatures and low to average humidity.

 

[WojtasS]

Osobiście nie podjął bym się budowy tego modelu, ze względu na ograniczone źródło historyczne. Będziesz miał spory problem ze skalowaniem objektów. Chętnie zobaczę jak to rozwiążesz.

Personally, i wouldn't attempt to build this model due to limited and low historical sources. You'll have significant problems with scaling. I'd love to see how you solve these problems.

Prawie wszystkie dekoracje są zrobione przez SZKUTNIKa więc jedyne co mogę zrobić inaczej to szyny po bokach dziobu. Mogę je zaprojektować z większą ilością podpór i zdobień tak jak to zaprojektował Boudriot lub zrobić 1do1 wg szkiców Beraina

Almost all the decorations are made by Szkutnik, so the only thing I can change are the rails on the sides of the bow. I can design them with more supports and decorations like Boudriot designed them, or I can make a 1-to-1 version based on Berain's sketches.

 

[kuba91nt]

Ok. Design is only precision of a laboratory. Model will verify itself. I want to see it. I'm sitting in front row

 

[Maarten]

I haven't noticed any on my other ship which has much thinner keel, also planking seem to be ok, but I'm in Central Europe with no extreme temperatures and low to average humidity.

Looking forward to your process in this project.

 

[WojtasS]

Ok. Design is only precision of a laboratory. Model will verify itself. I want to see it. I'm sitting in front row

I know what you're talking about. I would change some things from design perspective, but I'm not the designer and in this project I had to rely on sb else.
Making a model from complet 0 certainly would fitting parts much easier

 

[WojtasS]

Looking forward to your process in this project.

I'm happy to see you onboard

 

[Hubac’s Historian]

This will be a fun project to watch unfold. Do you pre-sand the resin printed hull, in order to smooth out any gradations from the printing process? Also, I like the boxwood base color. Are you planning to use some kind of ink, or semi translucent wash to highlight the crevices and give the carvings a sense of depth?

 

[WojtasS]

This will be a fun project to watch unfold. Do you pre-sand the resin printed hull, in order to smooth out any gradations from the printing process? Also, I like the boxwood base color. Are you planning to use some kind of ink, or semi translucent wash to highlight the crevices and give the carvings a sense of depth?

Yes. The conecting points of separate parts are polished. I didn't mention the helm and shelf at the bottom of QG. They're polsihed and painted black as I won't be covering them with wood. Basically all the gray areas on hull are polished



I did use wash. Two or three layers depending on effect. Like I said in previouse post: Apollo is the same color as sculptures , but the camera makes him more sand yellow. The wash itself is also yellow which doesn't make countoures as underlined as with dark color ones. Instead this deepens the color. It still underlining the folds and similar things, just not as aggressive. I'm not a great miniatures painter, so this is enought for me.

Even though this model is in 1/48 the some details are very small. I hope you can see the difference as wreath is pre wash. With bare eye it's no problem, but on camera it's not so easy

 

[Hubac’s Historian]

First of all - Kris does such an amazing job of detailing these sculptures and reproducing these hull forms.

Now, I can see the difference between your washed parts and the base-coat yellow ocher. It is a pleasing honey color, indeed.

I hear your point about painting experience. This is why I love walnut ink so much. It’s water soluble and remains so even after it dries. You can continue to modulate it until satisfied, with a wet brush, and it really lends a sense of depth to the carvings. I appreciate that what you have done, so far, does give some of that effect, but a darker wash will really make these carved pieces pop.

Whichever way you go, it will be great. I just offer this as a reversible approach that is far less daunting than it may seem.

 

[WojtasS]

First of all - Kris does such an amazing job of detailing these sculptures and reproducing these hull forms.

Now, I can see the difference between your washed parts and the base-coat yellow ocher. It is a pleasing honey color, indeed.

I hear your point about painting experience. This is why I love walnut ink so much. It’s water soluble and remains so even after it dries. You can continue to modulate it until satisfied, with a wet brush, and it really lends a sense of depth to the carvings. I appreciate that what you have done, so far, does give some of that effect, but a darker wash will really make these carved pieces pop.

Whichever way you go, it will be great. I just offer this as a reversible approach that is far less daunting than it may seem.

Thanks for the tip I may try this