L'Ambitieux Jean Berain 1/48

[WojtasS]

Won't the resin deform over time? How are the planking strips fastened?

Planking can be glued with CA or other similar type of glue.
From what I have read, most of the deformation comes from incorrectly placing angled of parts in the printer and not curing the resin enough. The problem is that the parts of the hull are very big, so I can't get a good angle, so I have to choose good and bad side of print. The supported side is little bumpy and needs polishing, but not's the real problem. Unfortunetly lower part of frames conected to keel tends to bend anyways and I can't do much about it

 

[Webber007]

The reason I asked is that I once ordered a PLA print, and there was a 5 mm deformation (warping) over a 20 cm span. The part wasn't critical, so I straightened it out using clamps, but I really didn't like the quality.

 

[WojtasS]

The reason I asked is that I once ordered a PLA print, and there was a 5 mm deformation (warping) over a 20 cm span. The part wasn't critical, so I straightened it out using clamps, but I really didn't like the quality.

SZKUTNIK's hull didn't have any deforamtions. It's more a matter of detais we didn't discuss

 

[Webber007]

I think I’ll go ahead and buy a 3D printer so I can experiment with resin myself. The parts I’ve seen—and the ones printed for me in PLA—are just terrible. Maybe resin ones will turn out better.

 

[WojtasS]

I think I’ll go ahead and buy a 3D printer so I can experiment with resin myself. The parts I’ve seen—and the ones printed for me in PLA—are just terrible. Maybe resin ones will turn out better.

The resin printer is great for carvings and gun barrels. With clear resin you can also make glass like lanterns. It will pay itself very quickly. My first printer cost me like 3 sets of canons for a first rate ship

 

[WojtasS]

Hi
As I wrote in a previous post, I needed to change my approach to the hull structure. I finally decided to make it in the form of a shell. Ken's LeFleuron @Hoss6262 was a great inspiration, but I decided to make some changes. Instead of relying fully on the shell created from a thin layer of wood strips, I decided to remove only 3 mm from the external side of the bulkhead. The thickness of the top part of the frames is around 4-5mm, depending where you measure it. I decided to go with 5mm as 1mm is an unnoticeable change, but helps a lot with stability. To maintain square edges the bulkhead are devided into two parts.

Le Fleuron 1729 - 64 Gun Ship PoB Scratch Build in 1:48 - (Ancre Monograph-J. Boudriot/G. Delacroix)

Hello Everyone, After 8 months of research and feasibility planning, I've decided to scratch build Le Fleuron. After reading all the great build logs on SoS and benefiting from everyone else's knowledge, I have decided to share my own. For me this will be a marathon and not a sprint...

shipsofscale.com

Possible changes:
I'm not sure wether I shoud keep vertical grooves inside the square inserts. They takes some time to mill, on the other hand I don't want to damage the conectors to bulkheads frames while removing the square insert, so it would be less risky to devide insert.

Other possible change would be to replace conectors with part of deck beams or support for deck beams

I'd like to hear your thoughts on this. Should I change something, or should I just keep going as is?

The @Webber007 hull seems very good alternative, but it requires time and effort to make another 3d design

HMS Prince 1670 1:48

And the Chapman drawings also has the deck sheer :

shipsofscale.com

Material-MDF 12mm

 

[Webber007]

You can make a solid enclosure out of MDF and then stabilize it with glue. If I were building my enclosure now, I would use MDF, because softwood furniture panels are prone to seasonal warping (unless secured with battens), whereas MDF is not. I’m not sure how MDF reacts to a staple gun, so you should experiment with it before starting the build.